SootySport Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Yep, Weber DCOE's. The carb model should be embossed on the carb body, something like DCOE 38 or 40 or 45, you'll need that when ordering parts. Best to order a full service kit then you can spend hours on the kitchen table taking them apart, cleaning and changing gaskets and O rings. Do one at a time in case you for forget where bits go then you have the other for reference. A invaluable book is available on Amazon called "How to build and Powetune Weber and Dellortos carbs", worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyonspride Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 ^^ I second this! Well worth the effort IMO, taking them apart, understanding how they work and rebuilding them has been invaluable as an experience for me. Before they were a bit like little two mysterious devices that may or may not be working correctly, but now I know they're right, it makes any future fault finding MUCH easier. This helped a lot too: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
^Qwerty^ Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Thanks for the info and video - I'm taking them to Mr Bogg as recommended by others, but as my experience and knowledge grows I hope to do more myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I forgot that these cars are put together using imperial size nuts and bolts. Cant' wait to put it all back together...... What you'll find (old or new) is that there's a mix of imperial (like 7/16 UNF suspension bolts) and metric (most of the engine?) and everything else in-between. Depending on who built it - you may find fittings are "what was easily available" rather than what it could or should have been. Then there's the "source" which may be Ford, British Leyland, Rover and others ...... but all this is the fun of owning a Westie and doing all the investigation and discovery makes it so much more interesting and personal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welly Jen Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 The nuts holding the carbs on will probably be 5/16 UNF. The actual Pinto engine as supplied by Ford was put together with entirely metric threads, with the possible exception of the manifold studs.. The DCOE carbs are on a manifold with a pronounced S bend to clear the chassis tubes. Wrstfield used to supply them. When you put the carbs back on they must not be tight on the manifold as this leads to vibration frothing up the fuel in the float chambers. The rubber bits need to be in good condition to prevent air leaks at the correct low torque. Jen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyonspride Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 This ^ ^ reminds me, the seals between the carbs and manifold are "misab plates", the bolts are "misab bolts" and these bolts seem to be metric on one side and imperial on the other..... I swear these are the worst invention known the man, you just cannot get these tight (no way to tighten them without damaging the thread), threadlock MUST be used to stop them coming lose and falling out (red or blue, preferably red). The misab plates will need to be changed, as after rebuilding the carbs they just won't seal properly (part of the seal will be the gunk that's built up over time). The bolts will randomly either undo at the manifold or at the lock nuts, if they all undo at the lock nuts then you might get away with reusing them..... If not then you'll probably have to damage them getting them off (mole grips to hold the thread whilst you undo the lock nut), which means buying a full misab plate/bolt set. Failure to change the plates will likely result in a vacuum leak, causing hesitation and stalling under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
^Qwerty^ Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 So tonight I got the temperature gauge working. Has been a bit of a learning exercise and also one that says I need smaller hands, but hey ho. So I got my hands behind the dash and removed the clamps and pulled the gauge through. A quick check of the wires didn't add up, as its a dark green from the sender, but I had no dark green on the gauge, only a double light green. Anyway, I connected a wire to the sender and connected it to the gauge and confirmed that where I had a red wire should in fact be green and I also got a reading Tracing back the red wire took me through about 2 metres of wire to a variable resistor. Turning it made no difference the gauge, so I traced more red wire and found the other end connected to the dark green cable I was looking for. Connecting the dark green to the gauge got me a positive result. So whilst I've now got a working temp gauge, does anyone have any idea why somebody would have connected a variable resistor in to the loop other than to try and alter the reading of course, but that didn't appear to work anyway? Thanks - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Some people do some strange things on kit cars if the one item doesn't match another. Check you have a VDO water guage and a VDO sensor. Although most have a Intermotor sensor that will in this case match the VDO guage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
^Qwerty^ Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 This is what I removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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