User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 You have'nt got to travel to and drive around Brum, hav 'ya wuv? Stick to main roads and rush hour! Lol Quote
Norman Verona Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Steve, you may find it gets worse. From what I've read. I won't repeat it here but let's see how you get on.. By the way, nay ideas how to stop a rad leaking on a tractor? Quote
FILFAN Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 HERE, Just one of many That made some interesting reading. Lets hope their uprights do better Quote
greenandmean Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Norman when I was a lad the white of an egg dropped into the top of a warm rad was always recommended, pre radweld days. Worth a try and cheap. Quote
User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Steve, you may find it gets worse. From what I've read. I won't repeat it here but let's see how you get on.. By the way, nay ideas how to stop a rad leaking on a tractor? I thought their stuff looked good, they seemed established and professional. Another member mentioned on their track car the callipers would flex under pressure. Quote
SteveD Posted April 23, 2013 Author Posted April 23, 2013 just sent them a email lets see what happens now Quote
User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Norman when I was a lad the white of an egg dropped into the top of a warm rad was always recommended, pre radweld days. Worth a try and cheap. I was going to mention this trick, but thought Norman invented it! Rad weld... Obvious too. Quote
User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 just sent them a email lets see what happens now That's good, just resend same ones twice a day! Quote
Nick Algar - Competition Secretary Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Another member mentioned on their track car the callipers would flex under pressure. sure do !! Quote
cidersurfer Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Another member mentioned on their track car the callipers would flex under pressure. Mine did too, then they blew a seal! Didn't work well for me... Quote
User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Ooo... Anyone have shares in hi-spec? I'm sure the factory supply Hi-Spec stuff too. If they're as bad as this thread suggests, how are they in business still? Quote
Norman Verona Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 This is a hole. Too much for radweld. I tried soldering it but the rad has too much dirt on it. So I then cleaned it as best as I could and applied Araldite. I don't think I left it long enough to set. I've got to go out in the morning so will pop into Super U and get more Araldite (well some poxy resin). Problem is I'll have to lift the battery out of the way as the hole is right behind the battery. I dug this hole when trying to get the old battery "unstuck" at one end. Just like the steering wheel that came of and smacked the owner in the forehead, I pulled up hard on the battery rope and when it gave way the corner of the battery hit the rad. The proper way to repair this is to remove the rad, clean it properly and solder it. But tha't a major job so It'll have to be Araldite. Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 I had Hi Specs (fronts) for seven years, no problems at all in that time. However, O did buy min from Andy at CAT Motorport, so never had the issues of dealing with Hi Spec directly. Quote
User0083 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Didn't realise you could solder a rad, same as solder for electrical connectors? Would solder/epoxy resin not block the radiator? Ah, it would block that small section! Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 It's how a lot of radiators used to be made. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.