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Found 15 results

  1. Paul Aspden The 2nd

    Configurable Battery Tray

    Configureable battery tray. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/6240e28f159613788c934d68/w/50a3a427a40499f48e73d000/e/bb930c2cf674065904cf03bd?configuration=List_1eB7iwBvHgHOY6%3DDefault%3BList_6QsXsWtjqTtLHz%3DDefault You should be able to input your battery dimensions into the configured parts panel and the model should reconfigure to the correct size for you. To export the relevant STL file for 3D printing just use the export button All the best 🙂
  2. Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

    Motorhome Battery Woes!

    Thought I would share this, may help somebody? Slight "technical" problem with our motorhome! Which for info is parked on our drive. Awoken recently at 3.00 am by a bang followed by m/home alarm going off. Grabbed a torch, went out to look, found this: (photos taken next morning in daylight) First thought was, some b-----d's part ripped the locker door off and tried to nick the cat! Looking further was faced with this in the leisure battery locker! One of the pair of leisure batteries had exploded, acid and bits of plastic everywh
  3. AlexSB

    Best battery for Crossflow

    Hi all - quick question. 1600 Crossflow - pretty much standard - 80-100hp. I'm having trouble starting and it's cranking really slowly, I suspect the battery may not be helping matters. Even in the past, when the battery has been fully charged and everything has been otherwise fine, it struggles to hold enough charge to get things going. I've attached photos of what I have now - it's a PowerVamp 25 racing battery. I believe, these racing batteries are lighter, but have a lower voltage than standard batteries. I've no interntion of taking it racin
  4. Paul T

    Battery Mounting Options?

    Hi guys, I’m thinking of how to mount my battery (Halfords HB038), currently the plan is to make something lightweight and secure from sheet ally - but wondering if anyone has a neat, off-the-shelf solution? Also longer term I’d like a smaller, more compact solution as 330A seem excessive for a 1.8 standard comp ST 1800 Zetec, anyone advise on a good value alternative? cheers
  5. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Options

    I don't want to start any fights, but what battery would people recommend? I've been thinking PC680 but it's not the cheapest. There are a bunch of 51913-sized batteries listed here: https://www.tayna.co.uk/51913-Motorcycle-Batteries-G83.html The CCA ratings seem to vary a lot although I gather this is partially as different standards measure it at different temperatures, making it hard to compare like for like...
  6. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Cable to Starter

    S2000 builders, do you run your positive lead to the starter along the left side of the engine bay or with the rest of the wiring around the right side? Do you know what length the cable is? I can't find any info on this in the manuals or on the forums
  7. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Tray

    Where can I get an inexpensive battery tray for a gel battery? I'm looking at using an Enduroline 51913 (as recommended by @Rhett - Joint Black Country AO), it is near identical size to a PC680 so odyssey trays would also work. I can only seem to find the "blingy" trays for this smaller battery size which I don't really need. Something like the one in this thread would be perfect.
  8. Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

    Battery Optimiser Socket

    Looking to fit 12v socket on my Sport 250 to make it easy to connect battery charger/optimiser (max output 1A). Considering a "lazy way" of connecting socket to aux. (Purple and black) permanently live connectors on the dash loom. Any thoughts, suggestions or words of wisdom on doing this gratefully received. Don't want to do anything that could put vehicle electronics at risk, thanks.
  9. M6 WSC

    Problems starting engine

    Hi All, I've got an issue with my Westie that I hope someone can shed some light on. Recently when I go to start the car, nothing happens... I'll explain. 1. Turn key on 2. Wiggle immobilizer fob next to wire, can hear fuel pumps running 3. Press the start-stop button, and it just makes a 'click' and the starter motor does nothing. (The click seems to come from around the induction side of the duratec) However, 1 time in 20 or so, it starts fine! Things I've checked already: 1. Battery - fully charged 2. Starter motor - works fine during the time wh
  10. DamperMan

    A stink from under my seat

    Her in doors bought some furniture and it is ready for collection today. I went in the garage too get the camper out which has been in hibernation since early september ...Except for 1 trip to wicks to get plaster board. I opened the door and holly stink there was a horrible pong!.... First though was that maybe i'd not emptied the waste water... But a quick sniff at the sink and that was fine. Then a quick sniff of the chemical toilet encase i'd forgot to empty it...Fine.. a quick route about but the smell was every where and really acrid. So strong I coun't really say what t
  11. I am thinking of buying the PVR22 (Clubsport) Race Battery from Powervamp via eBay. From what I can tell, reading previous forum posts and the description on eBay, this will be suitable for starting the Ford 1.7 Kent Crossflow (Xflow) in my SEiW. However, Powervamp have a more expensive battery, the PVR25 (Odyssey PC680) Race Battery, which also seems to be suitable too. I am not knowledgable about batteries, so I looked at the specs and they look pretty similar but with the cheaper PVR22 having better spec, smaller dimensions and being lighter too! PVR22 Amp 20Ah Dimensions 181 x 76
  12. lewis

    Lead Acid Battery Low Voltage

    A couple of weeks ago I got a new Leoch L60-N30A-L battery (http://www.norcoenergy.com/shop/product/74-l60-n30l-a-leoch-battery-motorcycle-12v-30ah-30ah-300a-g-vrla). The shop filled it up with the acid for me and it seemed ok. I left the ignition on one night (cars still being built so I usually forget to turn it off) and the battery died. I put a voltmeter on it and got 0v. After charging it all day yesterday and most of today (not overnight) with a CTEK 3.6A charger (http://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-MXS-3-6-4-Stage-Multi-Functional/dp/B004TLF4PC) the battery reads around 9.5V whilst charging an
  13. Dabbsy

    Flickering charging light

    Hi there, I've got an SEIW (from 'Wheels' - Chris Middlemass) last year that's running 2l Zetec and twin Webers. For the last ten miles the charging light has started to flicker on once the engine has warmed up. To begin with it revs past 4k and the light stays out. But as it warms up it starts to flicker on at lower and lower revs, anything above 2500rpm. I tested the alternator output before heading out on a test drive and it was returning a consistent 14.2V, and the battery is similarly healthy when it's not under load. So, what's my next step? Am I safe to head out on a 75-mile
  14. After seeing Gary's header tank upgrade, I couldn't resist. So I got one, and a battery tray from Alloy Racing Fabrications. This now allows the bypass by the thermostat housing to return to the header tank, meaning that I've got a small amount of flow while the thermostat is closed. At the same time I used one of their fantastic, lay flat, battery trays. While I was at it, I've never been happy with the fuse box location on the scuttle. It leaves the wires showing, I like to keep things looking uncluttered so I've cut a aperture in the panel and sat it down in with rivnuts to bolt it down.
  15. Hello So my Battery Warning Light is on - all the time! Has been for a few months if I'm honest. Checked my wiring and voltages from alternator and all seems ok. I have no probs starting and she runs just fine, stops and starts on the button. If I leave the lights on (which I did for 20mins) the battery is flat so I stick the charger back on for 30mins and off she goes no probs. I suspect if I leave the charger off over a couple of days it will also be flat as the clock and imobiliser will take a bit of juice. Its a little Odyssey 25 of some flavour. I have a Halfrauds charger/conditioner
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