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Found 17 results

  1. AndySheldon

    Safe size of a custom battery tray?

    Hi there, I'm looking to make sure the battery tray I'm making fits and clears in my Westfield mega s2000. The dimensions are as attached in the pic. Any guidance welcomed as I want to ensure it will fit without hitting anything.
  2. Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

    Lead/Acid Battery - Annual Maintenance/checks

    In Jan 2019, I decided to check my battery for the first time (4 years old- supplied new by WSC with my kit, 3 years on the car with Circa 13,000 miles covered). It is kept charged via a Ctek when home too. It was the standard Banner Starting Bull item part number 530-030, which shows: However their data sheet shows: All the cells needed a 'drink' and circa 0.5L of distilled water was added! The caps for the cells have a vent hole: So given the front mounted position behind the radiator, perhaps the heat helps the water/acid evaporate/escape. Voltage tests should the volts to be 12.5V back then and ideally should be over 12.6V. It was starting okay. Cranking tests, showed (with fuel pump fuse removed): As you'll see it started (damm!) and then cut out as the fuel rail lost pressure. Subsequent cranking sounded fine to me though the volts shouldn't really drop bellow 10V on cranking. Given it just had a top up and had not really been driven, I'll see how it goes over the next month....... A few days later, it was measuring 13.2V on charge from the Ctek and only 12.3V with the Ctek off, so I replaced with a new item of exactly the same type (£65 delivered). Because of the 'early' expiry of the first item, I've decided to do annual checks on my battery now. In Feb 2020, no voltages checked, however electrolyte topped up slightly (no cells dry). Yesterday, I've checked again. Given the 'rumours' of Batteries being killed by use of Ctek's, I recorded the charging voltage as: I then switched off my Ctek and the volts were: I then left it for 10 mins and it had dropped to: So, still a good battery. I still checked the electrolyte levels in all cells with a clean lolly pop stick Which showed the level to be 10-15mm per cell above the plates. Given the impact of Covid 19 on the use of my car last year, I'm not surprised the electrolyte hasn't disappeared as much a previously. I currently feel this battery is destined to last longer then the previous item with annual maintenance and there's no issue with using a Ctek.
  3. Paul Aspden (MoFast)

    Configurable Battery Tray

    Configureable battery tray. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/6240e28f159613788c934d68/w/50a3a427a40499f48e73d000/e/bb930c2cf674065904cf03bd?configuration=List_1eB7iwBvHgHOY6%3DDefault%3BList_6QsXsWtjqTtLHz%3DDefault You should be able to input your battery dimensions into the configured parts panel and the model should reconfigure to the correct size for you. To export the relevant STL file for 3D printing just use the export button All the best 🙂
  4. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Motorhome Battery Woes!

    Thought I would share this, may help somebody? Slight "technical" problem with our motorhome! Which for info is parked on our drive. Awoken recently at 3.00 am by a bang followed by m/home alarm going off. Grabbed a torch, went out to look, found this: (photos taken next morning in daylight) First thought was, some b-----d's part ripped the locker door off and tried to nick the cat! Looking further was faced with this in the leisure battery locker! One of the pair of leisure batteries had exploded, acid and bits of plastic everywhere! Disconnected mains electric hookup, gabbed hose and washed everything down. Checked inside, fortunately batteries are under the floor, no sign of damage inside. Unplugged solar panel regulator to remove this as a potential charging source when it got daylight. With the acid everywhere glad I hadn't been a whimp and had taken one or both our dogs out with me! In daylight, found the force of the explosion had ripped the locker door front hinge fixings out, ripped the front lock out, and left it hanging on the rear hinge! Back and side panel of battery housing (plastic material) had been completely shattered and spread around. Removed intact battery, then remains of exploded battery: Neither local battery fuse had blown, wiring intact. Fluid level in intact battery fine. Built in charging system was on at the time. This can be left on all the time according handbook. In theory monitors and charges/maintains both vehicle and leisure batteries. I tend to put it on and off according to the weather, particularly in winter when the solar panel output is low. Initial thoughts were, has the charging system got a fault? Not sure however as second battery and vehicle battery appear to be ok. Wondering if the battery developed an internal fault and shorted internally? Looking back through my paperwork the batteries are just over 6 years old, but they were "budget"! Always thought a "battery was a battery", seems I'm wrong. Appears internal battery design, has advanced in line with "start/stop" technology. Food for thought!!
  5. AlexSB

    Best battery for Crossflow

    Hi all - quick question. 1600 Crossflow - pretty much standard - 80-100hp. I'm having trouble starting and it's cranking really slowly, I suspect the battery may not be helping matters. Even in the past, when the battery has been fully charged and everything has been otherwise fine, it struggles to hold enough charge to get things going. I've attached photos of what I have now - it's a PowerVamp 25 racing battery. I believe, these racing batteries are lighter, but have a lower voltage than standard batteries. I've no interntion of taking it racing and the performance gains of the lighter battery aren't really a concern. If I want to replace it with something a little more 'traditional', what should I go for? Thanks in advance!
  6. Paul T

    Battery Mounting Options?

    Hi guys, I’m thinking of how to mount my battery (Halfords HB038), currently the plan is to make something lightweight and secure from sheet ally - but wondering if anyone has a neat, off-the-shelf solution? Also longer term I’d like a smaller, more compact solution as 330A seem excessive for a 1.8 standard comp ST 1800 Zetec, anyone advise on a good value alternative? cheers
  7. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Options

    I don't want to start any fights, but what battery would people recommend? I've been thinking PC680 but it's not the cheapest. There are a bunch of 51913-sized batteries listed here: https://www.tayna.co.uk/51913-Motorcycle-Batteries-G83.html The CCA ratings seem to vary a lot although I gather this is partially as different standards measure it at different temperatures, making it hard to compare like for like...
  8. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Cable to Starter

    S2000 builders, do you run your positive lead to the starter along the left side of the engine bay or with the rest of the wiring around the right side? Do you know what length the cable is? I can't find any info on this in the manuals or on the forums
  9. Peter (Monty)

    Battery Tray

    Where can I get an inexpensive battery tray for a gel battery? I'm looking at using an Enduroline 51913 (as recommended by @Rhett - Joint Black Country AO), it is near identical size to a PC680 so odyssey trays would also work. I can only seem to find the "blingy" trays for this smaller battery size which I don't really need. Something like the one in this thread would be perfect.
  10. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Battery Optimiser Socket

    Looking to fit 12v socket on my Sport 250 to make it easy to connect battery charger/optimiser (max output 1A). Considering a "lazy way" of connecting socket to aux. (Purple and black) permanently live connectors on the dash loom. Any thoughts, suggestions or words of wisdom on doing this gratefully received. Don't want to do anything that could put vehicle electronics at risk, thanks.
  11. M6 WSC

    Problems starting engine

    Hi All, I've got an issue with my Westie that I hope someone can shed some light on. Recently when I go to start the car, nothing happens... I'll explain. 1. Turn key on 2. Wiggle immobilizer fob next to wire, can hear fuel pumps running 3. Press the start-stop button, and it just makes a 'click' and the starter motor does nothing. (The click seems to come from around the induction side of the duratec) However, 1 time in 20 or so, it starts fine! Things I've checked already: 1. Battery - fully charged 2. Starter motor - works fine during the time when it actually starts 3. Fuel pumps - Working 4. Immobiliser - Pretty sure the fob + wire contact is working fine. 5. Same issue whether it's a hot or cold start Any thoughts? Many thanks as always, Rob
  12. DamperMan

    A stink from under my seat

    Her in doors bought some furniture and it is ready for collection today. I went in the garage too get the camper out which has been in hibernation since early september ...Except for 1 trip to wicks to get plaster board. I opened the door and holly stink there was a horrible pong!.... First though was that maybe i'd not emptied the waste water... But a quick sniff at the sink and that was fine. Then a quick sniff of the chemical toilet encase i'd forgot to empty it...Fine.. a quick route about but the smell was every where and really acrid. So strong I coun't really say what the smell was. Anyway it only just started. Which i thought was odd as its been on the Ctec since being parked up. Driving to work freezing to death with windows open everytime i closed my window the smell was back, and seamed to engulf me immediately.. It reminded me of my work experience placement at Pembroke petrochemical labs. A real sulfurous smell, i wan't sure if there was a whiff of burning wires in the mix. I had to stop the van and have a fresh Sniff. The smell was everywhere but i thought it was worse at the back of my seat. Envisaging finding something rotting I moved the seat forward and nothing was to be seen. But the battery was roasting hot. I disconnected it lifted it out to see it was also leaking... The condition window looked empty. This battery was the original "petrol" starter battery. When i fitted a TDI engine I also fitted a large battery in the engine bay (at the rear vw T25). So really only the rear battery was needed. But still more batteries the better in my eyes in a camper. So if you go in your garage and there is a horrendous smell don't blame it on the dog, it might be your battery!
  13. I am thinking of buying the PVR22 (Clubsport) Race Battery from Powervamp via eBay. From what I can tell, reading previous forum posts and the description on eBay, this will be suitable for starting the Ford 1.7 Kent Crossflow (Xflow) in my SEiW. However, Powervamp have a more expensive battery, the PVR25 (Odyssey PC680) Race Battery, which also seems to be suitable too. I am not knowledgable about batteries, so I looked at the specs and they look pretty similar but with the cheaper PVR22 having better spec, smaller dimensions and being lighter too! PVR22 Amp 20Ah Dimensions 181 x 76 x 166 mm CCA 300A Peak 700A Weight 6.5kg PVR25 Amp 18Ah Dimensions 185 x 79 x 170 mm CCA 265A Peak 680A Weight 7.0kg What would be the advantage of buying the PVR25 over the PVR22? The engine is not highly tuned (about 110 bhp) and is road use only. I have read previous threads on the subject but none of them seem to get to the bottom of the issue. I don't want to pay more for something I don't understand but, equally, I don't want to buy the PVR22 and then realise I should have bought the PVR25 in the first place, as that would be a false economy. Also, with the PVR22/25 batteries, do I need to treat them differently than the Varta standard lead acid battery its replacing. Specifically, I am think about the need to put the battery on charge whenever park it up? Normally the car is SORNed all winter and then used infrequently between April and September, so would I need to leave it plugged in with the supplied charger (I'd buy the bundle with the charger and bracket with the battery)? There is power in the garage, it just seems like a bit of a faff and a trip hazard. Finally, the existing battery cables are not in great condition and the FIA Kill Switch is inconveniently located, so I am thinking of replacing them and relocating at the same time. There are 25mm2 and 35mm2 cables on offer from Powervamp; I suspect that the 25mm2 cables are fine but how do I work out which is the correct size for my application? I know I could measure the existing ones but it is no guarantee that they were right in the first place. Thanks in advance, Bill
  14. lewis

    Lead Acid Battery Low Voltage

    A couple of weeks ago I got a new Leoch L60-N30A-L battery (http://www.norcoenergy.com/shop/product/74-l60-n30l-a-leoch-battery-motorcycle-12v-30ah-30ah-300a-g-vrla). The shop filled it up with the acid for me and it seemed ok. I left the ignition on one night (cars still being built so I usually forget to turn it off) and the battery died. I put a voltmeter on it and got 0v. After charging it all day yesterday and most of today (not overnight) with a CTEK 3.6A charger (http://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-MXS-3-6-4-Stage-Multi-Functional/dp/B004TLF4PC) the battery reads around 9.5V whilst charging and around 6.7V when not charging. Charging with a standard halfords 1800cc charger it reads up to 10.5V but then I think it blew the 20A fuse in the charger. Also the CTEK and battery get pretty warm after charging for a while. Is the battery dead already or does it just need a long charge?
  15. Dabbsy

    Flickering charging light

    Hi there, I've got an SEIW (from 'Wheels' - Chris Middlemass) last year that's running 2l Zetec and twin Webers. For the last ten miles the charging light has started to flicker on once the engine has warmed up. To begin with it revs past 4k and the light stays out. But as it warms up it starts to flicker on at lower and lower revs, anything above 2500rpm. I tested the alternator output before heading out on a test drive and it was returning a consistent 14.2V, and the battery is similarly healthy when it's not under load. So, what's my next step? Am I safe to head out on a 75-mile run? Many thanks for any feedback. Chris
  16. After seeing Gary's header tank upgrade, I couldn't resist. So I got one, and a battery tray from Alloy Racing Fabrications. This now allows the bypass by the thermostat housing to return to the header tank, meaning that I've got a small amount of flow while the thermostat is closed. At the same time I used one of their fantastic, lay flat, battery trays. While I was at it, I've never been happy with the fuse box location on the scuttle. It leaves the wires showing, I like to keep things looking uncluttered so I've cut a aperture in the panel and sat it down in with rivnuts to bolt it down. Plenty of space between the gearbox and wiring underneath. Quite pleased with the look I think...
  17. Hello So my Battery Warning Light is on - all the time! Has been for a few months if I'm honest. Checked my wiring and voltages from alternator and all seems ok. I have no probs starting and she runs just fine, stops and starts on the button. If I leave the lights on (which I did for 20mins) the battery is flat so I stick the charger back on for 30mins and off she goes no probs. I suspect if I leave the charger off over a couple of days it will also be flat as the clock and imobiliser will take a bit of juice. Its a little Odyssey 25 of some flavour. I have a Halfrauds charger/conditioner for regular and gel batteries, it's pretty much always connected and has not let me down (yet...). So now it stays red charging and never goes to green maintenance anymore. I've not changed anything electrical wise and I can't see anything obvious. Do I need to dig further in the electrics, alternator, charger or do I have worn out battery? Ignition off | clock ticking | immobiliser on Batt 13.31v Alternator 13.31v Batt to Gnd - Good Alternator to Gnd - Good Ignition on | engine running | clock ticking Batt 12.82v Alternator 12.85v fluctuation but no lowe 12.83v Batt to Gnd - Good Alternator to Gnd - Good Thanks.
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