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I resent that comment - mine is most definitely a GRP-top 😁 can’t comment on Andy Crow’s new toy though 😎

North east club night + 3 tin tops. Run out over the moors

Not been on much since last post. Fixed the initial cut out problem with the wiring but seemed tonight doing it now and again in 3rd when going uphill under full power - will need to check the fuel float again. In other news, got the pro race 1.2s on wrapped in new rainsport 5s, much better. Picked up a C7 RS6 as a new daily last month also. Silly power, have to say though had the Westfield out tonight and just a complete different type of fun!

Don't be put off by a Q plate either - it can be so much easier at MOT time regarding emissions... A Red Top will give plenty of options performance wise, feel pretty quick as standard anyhow. Biggest thing IMO to be aware of is how vulnerable you are, especially as the general standard of driving is so poor nowadays. You really need to drive defensively when in traffic - more like being a biker... Payback is in spades though - miles more bang per buck in a seven type car than super cars costing 10-20 as much - at least in smiles per mile. Remember, whilst sat in your seat, you could touch the road surface with your hand. This multiplies the driving experience and makes you feel as though you are going twice as fast as you are...

Hi Callum Good choice - Westfield with a Redtop. I'm definitely biased by my own wonderful experience with that combination. Here's an obvious one that's been discussed on here before, but not mentioned in this thread: - if you are not average size - in either direction - then try many cars. It's most likely that one will fit, even if on paper it should have been the same as one that didn't fit. Lots of variations in the build. - I've done this one wrong: get it insured at an agreed value - well above what you paid to allow for the sizeable repair costs of bodywork to avoid a write off - get a ride or even a drive in one. I was hooked ever since, but I know of people who are spooked by how low, light, nimble, raw it is. - as with all (performance) cars: no need to chase amazing power figures when you then end up never really opening up due to modern traffic/driving etiquette. It is far more fascinating to really put the power down and let it fly - without entering crazy speed levels Probably more that'll come to my mind, but that's it for now.

10k will get you a lovely westy, it's what mine cost me and it's a factory built car on an age related plate (not Q) zetec engine on throttle bodies and less than 12k miles when I bought it, it's a cracker. Best wishes for your search, it will be fun !

This is important! Make sure that the car that you are looking at is registered properly. In my opinion, it's the first question that you should ask.

Welcome! Some great points made already, the comment about you’re buying the builder/previous owner as much as the actual car is so very true! Try and soak up, via the forum, social media etc, as much info as you can about the brands of car you’re interested in; in particular, build threads are typically great for really getting to know a marque up close and personal, and seeing how builders achieve things. It helps hugely when it comes to looking at cars for sale, as you already have some familiarity. Choosing a spec that you want is tricky, sometimes it’s easier to put a list together, first must haves - the deal breakers if the car doesn’t have them, then the “would likes”, this can include things you could add later, given the right car comes up with your must haves. However, most “upgrades” on these sorts of car don’t necessarily add much value to the base price, but some do make it much more desirable. So it’s rare to get anything like the individual cost of the upgrade back at selling time. Be aware of this, and be aware that it might cost more than you think to change certain things. The big ones in this category are bodywork and engines. It’s been a rule of thumb for instance, for years, that an engine swap - to a different brand or model of engine, will cost the typical owner, doing as much as they can themselves, around £2/2500 on top of the price of the new engine! Likewise, if changing bodywork, new parts are very expensive, and even if you go for second hand, and refurb. them yourself, if you have to get them resprayed to all match, you may pay any where from £2000 upwards. On top of the S/H panel prices themselves. Of course, if you can repaint yourself, or you have lots of donor engine parts laying around around, and can fabricate parts like mounts, exhausts etc, these cost can reduce a lot. But none the less, try and get the engine and body you want from the start. (A Redtop Vauxhall C20XE is a cracker in a Westfield, btw.) And if buying a project, cost up what you’d have to do before buying, and make sure the sale price factors that in!

Hi folks, Recently joined the forum after purchasing a 2002 SEiW last weekend from a colleague. Had various cars over the years with high power but nothing has compared to the fun I had driving this home last weekend, pure joy. It currently has a 2ltr Zetec Silvertop with twin carbs. Recent rebuild of engine with Raceline head and cams. Plans are to swap the carbs for ITBs, refresh the suspension and then just enjoy. Took delivery of some Pro Race 1.2s and Rainsport 5's this week so they will be first up. One question I have is today when driving it in to work (after filling up), it cut out a couple of time on when either on a bend/turning/omn a roundabout. It's a very quick blurp and then fine again. Assuming something to do with fuel starvation but cant figure out where its came from. At the same time a slight squeal has started which seems to be coming from manifold side not the front. Anyway, great car and great fun. Hopefully meet some of the local members at some point 😁 Arran

I like this 2 car garage.

Hi Callum. Read and find out as much as you can before buying anything. Not just about specific models but also kit cars in general. I was wondering about the car you looked at. It might have appeared to be 50 years old due to the registration letter but would have been built far more recently. Kit cars can be registered in a variety of ways so you need to be careful and make sure it's been done properly. There are probably some around still described as Cortinas and escorts on the logbook.

Front and rear bumpers - designed and built and hopefully will meet the Michigan state requirements

Im going too take a good solid guess but this will be no good for your car . I did have another which would have suited you but that sold straight away sorry

Yip, welcome to the kitcar world 😆

Thanks for the responses folks! Float all good and now confirmed to be that wiring under the dash. All part of the fun isn't it 😅

The first two paragraphs seem a little redundant now..... 🙂 Check the float levels. The bowl in the carb should hold enough fuel to get you around a sharp bend or roundabout without cutting out. If the float levels are too low then you might not have such a "reserve". At the same time check cables into the spark ECU and coil pack just to be sure there's nothing loose that's cutting spark with lateral g forces. Give the cables a wiggle when the engine is running - if there's an issue with the wire you should get the same effect. There's a good few threads on what you need for changing from carbs to ITBs if you have a dig around in tech-talk.