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This event is still on this coming Sunday. If it's good weather we will go a run out around the Peak District at lunchtime too. https://greatbritishcarjourney.com/events/kit-cars-kaboodle/

Exactly ! - this is "sight" i have attached to see where this wheel is In Westfield I can see both wheels. In MNR left front not. I've got to say (not to brag or anything 🙂), but it actually works — and I’m really proud of this tuning!

What is that sticking up from the front left wing? Is it so you can see where the wheel is approximately if you can't actually see the wheel from the drivers seat? Now you'll tell me it was just a bit of track debris that got stuck and I'll have to hide from the embarrassment for a month 😂

Second trouble-free track day with my MNR Vortx Inboard CBR1000RR. I'm starting to feel more confident in the car. Lots of impressions and comparisons to my track-spec Westfield Aerorace. Ideally, I’d love to drive both cars on the same track, on the same day, and compare lap times directly. Unfortunately, that’s not feasible at the moment, so my conclusions are based purely on driving impressions. Here’s what I’ve noticed: The MNR feels very planted—stable, composed, and smooth over bumps and curbs. It's also easier to control when the rear steps out, especially compared to the Westfield. This time, I tested it on both semi-slicks (Yokohama A052) and full slicks. I also felt noticeably less fatigued after a session in the MNR. On a more somber note, I recently read that Marc Nordon, the creator of MNR cars, is now in hospice care. Really sad and unfortunate news : - ( .

The complete trip is written up here-

DM on the way……

Open to offers as they are only going to sit basement collecting dust

But of a long shot but if anyone's upgrading to a full cage let me know. I don't think caged are making them anymore.

There some on eBay atm too! https://ebay.us/m/6KgTlc

If you're looking for a bit of light reading the Race and rally car source book by Allan Staniforth has some good suspension write ups.

An interesting thread from the archives here: Rather than take this one too much further off topic.

You used to see a few similar mods to the old RAC roll bar, back in the day. Not seen it done since the rule changes brought about the MSA roll bar, so i guess it was no longer compliant?

Yep - I've just fitted one of their quick racks. No problems there.

I’ve found Rally designs own branded stuff to vary enormously product type, to product type. I’ve got their quick rack, and it’s been fantastic, really good quality. Other stuff I’ve had has sometimes been so poorly made/designed, they’ve taken it straight back and refunded me. These days, I like to see a lot of positive recommendations for any specific RD product, before I trust it.

It’s a really complicated topic, worthy of a thread on its own. It’s not a black and white thing either, many get into the idea of bump steer = bad, must eliminate. The reality is, that it’s just another element, that needs to be controlled, but can also be used beneficially. Lotus for example, often use controlled amounts of bump steer beneficially.

Interesting. I bought some Rally Design hubs for my first Westy and the runout on them was terrible. Perhaps they have improved? I have one of the Westfield / Hispec ones on the other side, so I'd prefer them to match.

Its very interesting. I wasn't away of the differences in the chassis, but then I am an old SE narrow. But my understanding of the principle of moving the rack, and I am by no means an expert. Is to reduce the effect to steering angle and maybe toe during the normal suspension travel known as Bump Steer. I understand that in a perfect world the steering arms would be straight at normal ride height and move in the same angles as the suspension arms and so ideally should be parallel to the arms and also pivot in in the same place. In the picture because the steering arms/trackrods are angled down so when the suspension compresses and the arms straighten the arms in relation to the upright lengthen effecting the steering angle and ultimately the toe Of course as always its a lot more complicated that this and there are always compromises with the parts available in a kit car. All just my understanding and happy to be corrected as its a very complicated subject and am very happy to learn and understand better myself.

I've heard some bad stories with Hispec uprights. Personally, I can recommend the ones RallyDesign sell, sturdy and cheap, got a set last month and they worked perfectly: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=4356&osCsid=bvpq56g33tj0j170n8pg441rn0 Bearings: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=14670 Studs: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=4674

Yes, I've spoken to them. I was hoping to pick up a second hand / unused one for a little less. Hi-Spec also have at least a 6 week lead time.

Go direct to Hi spec @Geoff101 They will supply just the bits you need. https://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/uprights.html

I can't stop thinking about this. Is it trying to get the track rod end position closer to the middle of the upright to minimise the effect when the camber of the upright changes?

Still looking.

I'm not sure that I understand that. Surely, if you raise the rack then raise the ball joint location to compensate then it puts all the angles back where they were, with no effect on bump steer? Just with a higher rack? Or am I missing something? David

There was once a kit car made in Rothbury. The Kingfisher