Newbie Speed Series Questions

[tabs23]

FWIW, for racing (and I realise the rules for sprinting can be more relaxed) the rule for the last couple of years has been that the tow point can't be more than x inches (I think 18) above the ground. So roll cages are out.

[funky munky]

I am a novice with a Class D car, due to ther gearbox I believe, and have TOW decals on my roll bar ?

[robo1968]

Can anyone see from my pic below if this spring arrangement on my carbs is up to scratch for racing regs? Are these known as the 'pull off' springs?

[FILFAN]

From what I can work out you should be ok but the masses will be here soon

[FILFAN]

While on the subject my setup has jenvey itb's with a spring on each butterfly. I have also fitted a single return spring I think this is ok from what I read but just wanted to make sure

[stephenh]

Coming back to this question of towing eyes/points, I cannot see any mandatory requirement for these in Sprinting and Hillclimbing.

There is a new regulation, S10.1.5, but it is a recommendation, not mandatory, and it simply says:

It is recommended that suitable towing point(s) on all cars shall be clearly identified, and suitably marked, using a contrasting bright colour, accessible from the front and the rear.

So no panic, first you dont HAVE to do anything, and secondly there is nothing to say you cannot use the roll hoop/rollcage, and mark it with some suitable tape or better still transfers such as those you can purchase from, eg., Demon Tweeks which include some nice large arrows, and the word TOW in block letters.

I can't see anything about a minimum or maximum height for the tow point.

[Nick Algar - Competition Secretary]

Stephen, whilst you are correct re the MSA regs, Liverpool & LDMS have it in their regs that one must be provided. So as you suggest a marked up point on the roll bar is a really good idea.

 

As to all the comments about this not being allowed, from what I have seen 7 type cars almost always get towed by their roll bar in Sprinting and Hillclimbing     so it's the easiest and quickest thing to do, then if you get questioned about it, ask what they want instead.

[Nick Algar - Competition Secretary]

To answer a few questions about entries:-

 

1) As I receive these I enter them into the computer and send out an acknowledgement to drivers, but this is done in batches every couple of weeks or so,

 

2) Close to the beginning of the season, ie March I will send you a Speed Series Card which also confirms your WSCC Membership, there is a pack with 2 stickers for your car as well

 

3) During the season we distribute the T shirts at events, but this year have also added and option to have it sent to you for £ 2.50 to cover postage & packing

[Dodgey]

Do we need numbers or anything similar on our cars?

[Mark (smokey mow)]

Do we need numbers or anything similar on our cars?

Yes, the final regs when they're released the week before the event will tell you what number you will be. You can buy packs of race numbers from Merlin at Castle Combe, off ebay etc or make your own with black tape.

[Terry Everall]

Most of us use black numbers on white rectangles that stays on the car. Carefully removed you may be able to reuse numbers

Demon Tweeks sell what you need

[Paul Morcom]

Do we need numbers or anything similar on our cars?

Yes.

 

I worried loads in my first year about numbers and then realised it was simple for sprints and hillclimbs. Main thing to appreciate is that you get issued a new number for every event (i.e. you do not get issued a number for the year).

 

Ideally use black numbers on a white background as Tel advises.  The MSA Blue Book gives you all the sizes etc.. But IMHO this is more for circuit racing and rallies; for sprints and hillclimbs as long as they are roughly the right size and clearly visible then you will be ok.  Most competitors simply stick contrasting numbers onto the sides of the car (either the tub or bonnet).  So white numbers on a dark car or black numbers on a light car (see my Avatar).

 

Some events (e.g. Shelsley Walsh) you have to have numbers on the nose cone as well as the sides so that the guy in the starter hut can see your number.

 

You see all sorts of numbers from expensive ones from the likes of Merlin and Demon Tweeks, cheaper from eBay (my source), or home made from black/white gaffer tape (my backup plan).

 

As long as they are clearly visible, roughly the right size and don't fall off you will be OK - they are normally checked by the scrutineer before your first practice run.

 

You will find that you use one or two numbers up quicker than others, this is because you  normally end up in a similar running order at most events; so you use a lot of 3s and 4s etc.  When you buy them from a shop or ebay the normal method is 10 of each number (0 to 9). When you run out of a specific number you start turning other numbers into the one you need (e.g. 8s can be made into 3s) or the gaffer tape comes out.  One time I was 111;and I think it was Shesley Walsh (nie 1s required!) so killed my stock of 1s in one event!

 

Some events hold a limited stock of numbers for sale, but this is rare and should not be relied upon.

[Dodgey]

Cool thanks, white insulation tape it is then :-)

[thegunplumber]

Hi i am abit confused as to whether i have to change my tyres,this will be my first time in the speed series i have entered for castle combe but not sure if my tyres are ok.i have a set of toyo 888 and a set of toyo R1R,i am a novice with full road legal and registered 2.0ltr duratec.i believe my  sequential gearbox puts you into class F so  have put that on my application form.Could anyone clarify if these tyres are ok to run in my class.

 looking forward to meeting you all

regards

martin

[Terry Everall]

If you are runninig in F in speed series then 888 are ok as they are a list 1B tyre

Check Castle Coombes own regs