Replacing Brake Pads And Oil Change!

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I think most just get the oil war, as you would for a regular oil change, then disconnect one of the scavenge hoses off the sump.

Note, if you've got an oil cooler, you need to decide whether you want to try and drain it, as well.

There are different style pump mounts, but my Pace job has a slotted front mounting plate that attaches to the cover plate for the pod oil pump. It then has a single bolt and bracket at the back of the pump, bolting it to the block. I just loose the rear bolt slightly, then loosen the front bolts, and the front of the pump will swing in or out a little. It's a tight fit, and there's not that much adjustment, but then you don't have that much tension on the belt.

The great thing with a DS system, is that once its drained and refilled, you can actually use an old belt of some description and a cordless drill to spin the DS pump up and get oil pressure, before you even start the engine.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Oops, also forgot to add, if you've got a split type Pace oil tank or similar, you may want to spilt it open and clean it while doing the oil change. Some do, some only do it if they know there's contamination in the oil.

Catch tanks usually have a drain plug on the bottom. Might as well check and empty it, while you've got old engine oil to dispose of anyway.

[Tonsko]

Ok, thanks! It's a QED system. CAtch tank is ok - there's a drain plug on the bottom. Presume don't have to replace this as you would a normal sump plug. Detaching one of the scavenge hoses should be easy enough - they look a bit ropey anyway, might as well get some new ones. The braid has gone all black and horrible, not the nice shiny metal colour - would I just buy a length and cut it myself or buy hoses that are already the correct length and should they have pressure fittings on them? At the moment there is just a circlip attached to a worm gear (can't remember the correct name) to secure it. There is an oil cooler as well (mocal I believe), should be easy enough to detach a hose and drain this. I will re-examine the oil pump to see if there's any way it may move without detaching it totally. (Presume there's no seal here to the block, merely attaching bolts).

Why is it good to be able to get oil pressure without the engine running? Test for leaks without destroying expensive things?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Most vulnerable moment when starting an engine is when it's building pressure the first time. If you're draining down the oil cooler as well, it'll effectively let you re-prime the whole system. It's not really necessary, just a luxury that you have, instead of those anxious few moments waiting for oil to get round the system as you crank and pressure to build!

Should be able to slip the belt off just loosening the bolts. (If enough metal's been trimmed from the bottom corner of the block that is. -It all gets a bit tight for clearance down there when fitting the pump)

IIRC, the QED system is the Pace, just like SBD's.

As far as Hoses go, you pays your money and makes your choice. Stainless steel braided hose is typically used with either swaged on fittings, or reusable steel or aluminium compression fittings. Alternatively, you can use the slightly less expensive non-stainless braided hose and push on fir-tree fittings as supplied by Mocal etc.

Be aware stainless hoses in DS sizes can get very expensive, very quickly, especially if you go for pretty anodised aluminium fittings!

If you just want serviceable good quality stainless braided stuff with solid, reliable steel fittings, swaged on, take the hoses you need to replace down to your local hydraulics specialist and get them to duplicate them.

One point though, if you need angled fittings rather than straight through, make sure you get swept fittings! not forged.

[Tonsko]

Ah cool, ta.

There seem to be a few other stainless hoses with ally fittings there already in other parts of teh engine...will see how much is it to carry the tone! I will look up what all the other terms you used mean

With regards the oil pump/old bet/cordless drill - does it matter which way you set the drill?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yes, you'd be trying to pump non existent oil out of the engine if you go the wrong way, (car engines typically turn in a clockwise direction when you look at them from the front, except for some Honda's)

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

As an example, here's a load of Goodridge hose fittings for stainless braided hose. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/aeroquip-goodridge-hose-fittings/goodridge-female-hose-end-fitting

The one in the bigger pic is a straight through hose end. The smaller pictures on its left show various angled connectors, these are the "swept" type, notice how the end pieces (the bit that bolts on to the tank/pump/sump etc and the end that attaches to the hose) seem to be joined by a smooth "pipe" with a gentle bend of whatever radius needed formed into it. That gentle swept bend allows the fast moving fluid inside to change direction less abruptly, so there's less pressure drop. (Forged fittings tend to be more compact, with very tight, abrupt bends, they do cause more of a pressure drop).

This type of fitting is reusable, and can be assembled at home. They're a bit fiddly, but not too bad.

Swagged fittings are the sort of hose equivalent of a crimped on electrical connector! Hoses this size need a very powerful crimper, not something you'd have knocking around, so much easier to have made up by a specialist.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/push-on-hose-fittings/moquip-steel-90-degree-female-socketless-hose-fitting that's a fir tree type fitting, it's got a sort of barbed end that is a (very tight) push fit into the matching (non braided) oil hose.

[Tonsko]

I think the first type that you linked looks more long lasting - the fir tree type don't look like they can take massive pressures - my pressure gauge varies between 1.5 bar and (yesterday after a period of non starting) was wavering between 3.5-4 bar. Plus, those goodridge hose ends are the same colour that used around the engine in various places. I wonder if they weren't used on the scavenge hoses at the bottom of the block to help clearance? So as not to make protruding bits catch on <whatever you're driving over>.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Scavenge hoses aren't usually ss braided in most of the XE lits I've seen, they normally use the same hose as those push on fittings plus decent hose clamps.

I've used the fir tree fittings - you wouldn't believe how tight they are and how well they grip the hose - I've only ever got them off by cutting!

(It's rated to about 250 PSI/17 ish Bar. certainly I've never had a leak.

[Tonsko]

Aha! Fair enough