Replacing Brake Pads And Oil Change!

[Tonsko]

Hi all,

Going to embark on the first 'proper' maintenance of my westy soon - done bits and bobs, such as replaced coolant and thermostat etc. but this is the first bit of more meaty stuff.

So - the pads, I assume are pretty straight forward, has discs all-round. Is it just a case of taking them off and popping down to a parts shop and getting direct replacements? I *think* that they are ford pads, but couldn't be sure. I will check the receipt book for previous work. Will be buying some copper slip at the same time - is this all that I have to worry about? Should I replace the fluid at the same time?

The more tricky proposition is the oil change to my mind. It's dry sumped, so is it a case of drain all the oil, loosen the pump and replace the belt? Then tighten everything up, obviously

Are there any gotchas that I should be wary of?

Thanks in advance!

[Wile E. Coyote]

Yes - sorting through all the conflicting advice if you ask which pad compounds are best!

Pretty easy to find the right size of pad by looking at what you've got already, but ^^^ = Pandora's Box.

Depending on which calipers you have, you may find that rewind tool is needed/useful.

[Tonsko]

Haha! Pad compounds. I will leave that one alone for now - not too bothered. Will see how long the standard compound lasts/how good it is. I'm of the mind that the discs were designed to stop a Sierra. Stopping a westy should well be within their capability!

[alexander72]

Wotcha,

I personally wouldnt work on my brakes as I dont understand em and I cant tell if ive done something wrong....just as i dont service my carabiners and climbing kit.... but that's just me.

I'm lead to believe that brakes a fairly easy to change - good luck with with it.

James

[Tonsko]

I know what you mean James! Still, would like to attempt it. There's a kit-car place up the road, so could always load it onto trailer and take it there if I get too stuck.

I checked with regards the winding tool with the chap at Demon Tweeks when ordering the pads (Mintex) - he reckons that the front pads (RS2000 discs) will slot straight in, and the rear discs (Sierra Cosworth) will just need a pair of long-nose pliers to do the winding. Sounds easy when said like that eh? I'm sure it won't be .

[Stuart]

I tried for hours with long nose pliers and couldn't wind the pistons back in not even a jot - so I ended up buying the tool and then it was a doddle. Heard others say that they managed OK with pliers - guess you pays yer money (or not) and takes yer chance.

[Tonsko]

Word to the wise then. I will have a go, if it takes too long, will then be getting the tool. Will any one be ok - presume they come with different attachments for different cars? [For example: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brake-Caliper-Piston-Wind-Rewind/dp/B008EFRQPA/ref=pd_cp_diy_2]

[SootySport]

Jesus! thats a comprehensive set. You can fabricate a tool yourself but 1st. you'll have to remove the old pads and discs to measure the spacing of the piston holes. A piece of flat iron with studs welded to it will do.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Copperslip is great for what it was made for - it's an anti seize compound - helps when it's time to strip parts down later. It'll do an OK job on pads, but something like Mintex/Pagid Cera Tec is much better. It's designed for brake use, will last longer before wearing off and will help much more if you're prone to any sort of brake squeal.

Alternatives to pliers for piston wind back are the spanners you get with angle grinders for loosening the locking collars.

Have you checked what callipers are fitted to your car by the way? (there are quite a variety of "standard" callipers that people seem to have fitted over the years!)

[Tonsko]

Hey Gadget,

It's funny, when soot1e said a bit of metal with two studs welded onto it, I immediately thought of an angle grinder spanner. I think there are a couple lying around, will check if they fit. That would be awesome if so!

I will see if the local bits place I use has any of that Pagid Cera Tec - bet they don't. Copper Slip will have to do if they don't - £6 for 500g.

As for calipers - no I haven't. I've just ordered a set of pads that are listed in the parts list that some thoughtful chap put together for the car. I guess I will find out over the weekend...

As for speedo (other thread) I will have it up on axle stands to do the brakes, so hopefully will be able to sort that problem at the same time (back pain permitting )

Cheers all!

[Dodgey]

I'm very new to car maintenance too. One tip I'd give is this: take photos of things before you take them apart. It's really useful. I found out that drum brake shoes are "handed" - they have a leading edge, which I only realised looking at the photos I'd taken.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I've got a cheap old digital camera knocking round in the garage for just that purpose!

[Dodgey]

I've got a very expensive digital camera that needs a good clean :-p

[7sRWild]

I've got a very expensive digital camera that needs a good clean :-p

Soooo glad its not just me who does that.

[Tonsko]

Ok, so got it jacked up, checked pads - they all looked great! Pads bought for no reason :/. There as spares though I guess. Then it came to the oil change - I've never replaced the oil in a dry sumped system before - on the C20XE engine, the oil pump is located fron engine left. How do you loosen the belt? Presume there's a way that doesn't involve unbolting it from the engine block. Also, do you drain the catch tank, then take the bottom hose that leads from the oil reservoir to the pump and drain it that wav[Disconnect pump end] ?