samulis Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) Hi Want to say hello to all Westfield enthusiast's. I have been fan of 7's almost last 20 years. Many of those years only way to get 7 legally to Finland was leaving the country and live abroad for a year and bring one when moving back. Now that EU opened new importing possibilities for car fans, small amount of sevens have landed here. From all different seven variations Westfield is closest to my ideology and heart, being more affordable than Caterham, old enough to be able to reg here (1991 or older) and serving its purpouse like the "original" plus I'm throughly in love in XI's So looking all kind of view's or info of this mad Westfield. Would love to buy it as a first westfield. Seems to offer lots of everything for asking price. SuperCharged westfield Cheers Samuli Edited March 11, 2012 by samulis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterm135 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Something just says "no" to me......... cant put my finger on it, will turn out to be an ok car having said that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell O'Neill Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Looks ok at first glance, but have to agree, something i cant put my finger on says no to me too. Not keen on the throttle bodies, megasquirt and to have had all that work done and not had it on a rolling road seams alittle crazy..... why supercharge it to? Not the most common upgrade. Id much rather have a worked engine with a definitive output. Stick softy rear tyres and michelin fronts must make it interesting too. Having said all that through, if your interested go take a look, its the only way to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Hi Samuli, Someone on here will know this car and be able to comment. It might be worth starting another thread titled, "Does anyone know this car?", that usually attracts some attention. Looking at the ad in detail, it's currently a non-runner because the cold start is messed up. They also claim that it ran OK but needs tuning properly. Now, it has megasquirt and bike throttle bodies, which are fine, I made a car with this set up a few years back that's still flying around on track days. But, unless you're very capable you're going to need a tuner with a rolling road who's happy to work with bike throttle bodies and megasquirt, and there aren't many in the UK, let alone, I suspect, Finland. The fact that it appears to have never run properly also makes me wonder whether the cooling has been properly sorted, for example. If you want an engineering challenge, lots of development potential, and don't mind not actually driving it much for some time, it could be ideal. It doesn't feel that expensive. I'll be honest, that would appeal to me. But if you want to get a car that you can drive straight away and do a few long journeys, etc, it might be a bit frustrating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Welcome to you! Let us start with the most obvious question - what will you use it for? Fast road, road and odd track day, or full track? This will help us point you in the correct direction. It makes a big difference. Can you come to the kit car show here in th UK in early May before making your purchase? It would be a huge help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Jones Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 From what I read the M45 is not ideal here, it will limit to <200bhp unless you overdrive it and shorten its life. I would expect there will be no upgrade path for this without essentially starting again but maybe it meets yours needs as is, assuming its basically sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveD Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 that screems work to me , throttle bodies not ideal for starters with that set up ,much better with standard plenum and easier ,probably needs lots of set up and there are loads of factors to take into consideration ,how old is the charger ,previous use and most of all start up and running issues as they say ,if its just a map then they should have it sorted before they sell it ,and it does not look like its been used much with that set up at all so all of this just says walk away 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 <200 for the 'charger? Wouldn't that make it a bit pointless on an XE? You can get 200 ish BHP on these engines without going to extremes or huge expense by regular NA tuning. I've seen this ad before in the last few days or so, sadly with my failing memory I can't remember whether it's been on the Boardroom before, or I just saw the original ad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAIGR Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 How about this one if you need a 1991 or earlier car. Looks good value. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/34/viewthread.php?tid=167115 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samulis Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) First, thank you all for your replies. Looking at the ad in detail, it's currently a non-runner because the cold start is messed up. They also claim that it ran OK but needs tuning properly. Now, it has megasquirt and bike throttle bodies, which are fine, I made a car with this set up a few years back that's still flying around on track days. But, unless you're very capable you're going to need a tuner with a rolling road who's happy to work with bike throttle bodies and megasquirt, and there aren't many in the UK, let alone, I suspect, Finland. The fact that it appears to have never run properly also makes me wonder whether the cooling has been properly sorted, for example. If you want an engineering challenge, lots of development potential, and don't mind not actually driving it much for some time, it could be ideal. It doesn't feel that expensive. I'll be honest, that would appeal to me. But if you want to get a car that you can drive straight away and do a few long journeys, etc, it might be a bit frustrating. Some how I missed the part that it isnt running properly, maybe he added more information later to sale advert. Last toy cars where 944 Turbo and MX-5 with ITB's and MegaSquirt. I know how hard ITB's alone are tune compared to normal plenum, let alone FI'd. Welcome to you! Let us start with the most obvious question - what will you use it for? Fast road, road and odd track day, or full track? This will help us point you in the correct direction. It makes a big difference. Can you come to the kit car show here in th UK in early May before making your purchase? It would be a huge help. I want summer daily driver, ideally something that is 4 wheel'd motorcycle (I am willing to wear rain gear and helmet)that I can take to track numerous times and whipe the smug smile from my Porsche friends face We pick'd westfield from here bit over year ago, friend of mine bought a yellow 1991 with brand new zetec from Edinbourgh and we drove it to Helsinki. So I know what I want, fast, light, no windscreen (altho MOT here need's windscreen), rollcage/bar. Also to add I've imported 9 cars so far from UK to Finland. From what I read the M45 is not ideal here, it will limit to <200bhp unless you overdrive it and shorten its life. I would expect there will be no upgrade path for this without essentially starting again but maybe it meets yours needs as is, assuming its basically sound. Yes, atleast in MX-5 m45 runs out steam about 200hp and mp45 is better, but it is the torque that makes it for me. I love NA Screamer, I'd love to have BEC but finding one that passes local law's is... Well, in last 17 years there havent been even 5 cars that meets local MOT laws. that screems work to me , throttle bodies not ideal for starters with that set up ,much better with standard plenum and easier ,probably needs lots of set up and there are loads of factors to take into consideration ,how old is the charger ,previous use and most of all start up and running issues as they say ,if its just a map then they should have it sorted before they sell it ,and it does not look like its been used much with that set up at all so all of this just says walk away Yes, these are the questions that make me wonder it alot, very tempting at that price, but I think there is a reason why it is "so cheap". How about this one if you need a 1991 or earlier car. Looks good value.http://www.locostbui....php?tid=167115 I called about that yellow £3500 yesterday and I really, really like it, more I read and think, more I like it, really honest car. But there is someone local going to see it this weekend, if he doesnt take it, I think I will. Edited March 10, 2012 by samulis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 What was the MX5 like on ITBs? It something I've been considering doing to the Westfield at the end of this year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samulis Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 (edited) What was the MX5 like on ITBs? It something I've been considering doing to the Westfield at the end of this year It was Eunos Roadster MazdaSpeed (Mazda's AMG at the time, before factory desided to buy it) B-spec, that stands for better flowing head, 256° cams (that are same as in m2 1002), mazdaspeed header and cat back (that was made by maximworks, one of best that you can buy for mx-5) and I added Fuji Racing ITB's and megasquirt DIYPNP. it gave 128hp from engine after good tune. Great to drive and love'd the sound (still miss the sound and response) but it was quite mild set up from start. As it was, I dont really think it was worth it, unless your after glory howl and the throttle response. The MazdaSpeed B-spec is rated as 126hp as it is, so ITB's aren't really something that you should be looking for power upgrade unless you've done head, HC cams, 1mm bigger valve's and seriously good exhaust, friend of mine is running 1600cc DD/part time track car that is upgraded with better pistons, cams, headwork and exhaust and he's running 150hp on normal plennum, so ITBs are hardly worth of the money. Most of the easy power upgrade you'll enjoy will come from MegaSquirt. Problem with Mazda mx-5 engine is that their originally ment to be FI'd so thet dont response to NA tune like 4-age or honda engines. Plus I would ad that ITB's are harder to tune than normal plenum setup as the original throttle body hadly is the problem in NA tune. Btw, it you haven't bought a ECU, look for Reverant who writes in most of mx-5 forums, he offers self build megasquirt that includes following and has build it so that it really works out of box and big plus is that he really has great support for ECU's he has build. - I've decided to go with the MS2V3 instead of the DIYPNP this time for several reasons, including being able to upgrade to an MS3 later on and cost. - All units will include sequential injection. 90-93 units will be "Sequential injection ready", meaning that the extra hardware needed to support sequential will be there, you will only need to rewire the injector harness to get sequential injection. - All units will be 100% plug and play. - 90-93 cars can remove the thermoswitch that operates the coolant fan - the MS takes care of that now. - 94-05 cars with A/C will have both their fans working for cooling. - 99-05 units will get alternator control, battery light control and check engine light control. - All units will have tacho output - All units will have electronic boost control (the EBC solenoid valve will not be included and needs to be purchased separately from DIYAutoTune) - The IAT sensor is not included in the price, it can be provided at an additional cost. - All units will include all the functionality possible, including A/C control, adding to their resale value later on. - Since the first GB I did in 2010, there have been several improvements to my ECUs. All these improvements are EXCLUSIVE to my ECUs, as I am constantly modifying the firmware to improve things or add extra functionality that isn't there. 1) Above idle, I'm tapering down the non-linear IAT correction (used to deal with IAT heatsoaking) so that by 2000rpm, the ideal-gas law is used as is. This means that in cruise and under load/boost, your AFRs will be spot on. 2) I'm bringing in the clutch and neutral switch signal to the ECU. This allows me to do all sorts of cool things: a) Say you are coasting down to a red light. You can set the overrun fuel cut to 1000rpm and the ECU will not inject fuel until 1000rpm. If however, you put the car in neutral or press the clutch in, it will immediately start injecting fuel again. No more idle droops! b) You can let the car in gear near idle, without any throttle, and if the transmission is engaged (ie no clutch or neutral), it will not enter closed loop idle mode. If the clutch neutral were not used, if you did this, bad things would happen if you let the car for a few seconds and the pressed the clutch in (it would either stall or the RPMs would go to anywhere between 1500 to 2500). c) I can keep the idle valve from closing if the trasmission is not engaged. Again, idle droop saver. d) You can actually see inside TunerStudio if the transmission is engaged or not (and datalog it too!) 3) Vastly improved A/C support. The A/C is now exactly like stock. 800rpm without A/C, 1000rpm with A/C. Press the A/C switch and the RPM instantly go to 1000, no hesitations or anything, cold or warm. No idle droops coming down to a red light with the A/C on. The A/C deactivates above 5200rpm and above 90% TPS. There is also an A/C indication in TunerStudio to help you identify any A/C issues. 4) More accurate fan switch on/off temps. With the previous boards, there were deviations of up to 3 degrees, due to noise. This has been fixed. 5) More accurate coolant temps in the ECU for the 99-05. I've tested the stock ECU coolant temp sensor extensively and I can now match the reading with the stock ECU up to 100*C accurately (above that the sensor itself is not very reliable) 6) PWM idle correction Vs system voltage. Simply put, if the system voltage drops, the idle valve opens up more to compensate. 7) Multiplexed inputs. I'm bring in many signals (clutch, neutral, A/C) through a single input to the ECU. This means that you will still have the options to use launch control and switchable tables. Advanced knock control using the TPIC8101. The raw knock signal is filtered through the TPIC chip for the appropriate frequency (1.6L, 1.8L, 1.9L) and then fed to my microprocessor board. At this stage, the ECU is provided with a knock/no knock signal, that is also filtered by my own microprocessor board, taking under consideration the RPMs, the load, the IAT, and then decides if the knock is real or not. I would like to move this functionality inside the ECU to also provide user-defined sensitivity (3D table, RPM vs Load, with IAT being an extra modifier to increase/reduce sensitivity - higher IATs, more sensitive, etc) but I don't know if I will make it in time or not. 9) I'm also toying with the idea of giving the MS2 the ability to have two different boost tables, selectable with an external switch through the multiplexed input, each table having its own separate boost cut limit. I have not touched this yet, however it shouldn't be really difficult. As always, all of my ECUs come with a personalized basemap to get you started asap. Edited March 11, 2012 by samulis 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Thanks for that, great post! It kind of confirms what I thought in that it will be as expensive if not more than FI, with less power. If they didn't sound so good, I wouldn't even entertain the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I guess if you are the font of all knowledge car wise and have the skills required to to the work yourself (or deep pockets) then it looks like it might be worth a punt With my limited knowledge, cash and time I would avoid it like the plague However 6.5k is cheap for a westy with that engine so even if you had to abandon ship with the S/C it could still make a good car with some work - it is a nice looking car but it all depends upon condition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samulis Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 (edited) How about this one if you need a 1991 or earlier car. Looks good value. http://www.locostbui....php?tid=167115 I think that this will be my car.. Just ticks the right boxess and cant beat that price. That S/C'd is tempting but I like driving more than fixing.. Edited March 11, 2012 by samulis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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