Speed Freak Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Howdo? Just wondered.. before I consider getting a very expensive radtec radiator as Im worried that my polo wont might not keep up, whether or not an air duct in the nose cone would make a noticable difference? Is the duct then far enough forward to affect the flow to the radiator? or will the air flow more than likey pass over the radiator and into the engine bay? And finally, should you lot think its work it fitting one- where the best place to get one? I could do with a black one as opposed to carbon fibre, and the triangular ones look nice! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Some questions what may provoke some ideas also: 1. What engine type? 2. What power is it making? 3. You using a standard nose cone? 4. What grill mesh are you using? 5. Have you flared sides? 6. Have you check that your temperature gauge is reading correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 ok mate... honda s2000 engine standard power 225-235hp wide body std nose cone westfield grill mesh engine not running yet.... hopefully in the next 2 weeks tho! got a rather large oil cooler in front of radiator, which is why Im slightly concerned about temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hate to say the Westfield high efficiency radiator sounds a better proposition. A friend of mine bought a rad of Ebay which just about fits into a standard nose and I reckon it might give the high efficiency rad a run for its money in both terms of the word. I'd be concerned about the oil cooler in front of the rad. Its normal practise to have it behind from what I understand it would lead to slower warm up of oil and probably a reduction in the water rad efficiency but wait for others to comment on this as this is my theory not experience. Depending on the mesh size, I cannot remember the Westfield size and they probably did at least three anyway, this can lead to reduction in airflow. I say a temperature difference of around 5 degrees just changing the mesh size! I guess the thing is to be aware of your options and run it and see. I wouldn't go fixing something that isn't broke, I've done my fair share of that and ripped it out again The best advice I can give is double check your temperature gauge. I used an infra red temperature probe. I spent a bit of money, time and frustration to find out my gauge was over stating my temperature by 10 degrees or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wile E. Coyote Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Depending on the mesh size, I cannot remember the Westfield size and they probably did at least three anyway, this can lead to reduction in airflow. I say a temperature difference of around 5 degrees just changing the mesh size! Just remeshed mine (the Westfield logo had corroded) - there's a chap on eBay from Czech/Poland that sells powder coated mesh in a range of different sizes/styles (including some with quite large holes) a good bit cheaper than I could find in the UK. Quality seems good and, usefully, the sheets are just big enough to get two grilles out of so you've got a spare or enough left over for bonnet vents. Will dig out details if they'd be of interest. There was also a thread a little while ago with folk showing, with various levels of complexity, ways to ensure that the air flowing through the nose actually made it through the rads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 A friend of mine bought a rad of Ebay which just about fits into a standard nose and I reckon it might give the high efficiency rad a run for its money in both terms of the word. Any links Adam? I'm interested to see what there is out there. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Any links Adam? I'm interested to see what there is out there. Mike :t-up: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I've searched my numerous emails from my friend and found this link he sent me: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330635177633?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I'll ask him to confirm this later. At one point he thought it was slightly too big but managed to prise it in there. Which I reckon is a bonus as you know you are using the maximum surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Mike , Tim I am that person and yes it fits just in the nose cone, 5he link is the correct rad. Difference is the bleed will be at the bottom this needs blanking off. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 That's interesting. I was thinking 430x500x50 was a safe bet. On my car I would have the ports on the drivers side so the bleed should be ok. Did you have to angle it at all to get clearance to fit the hoses? Any pics? At that price I think it's a bargain. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Mike no it just fits, price wise I made offer and got it cheaper. I was and still considering shortening the brackets by about 5mm as this will hep the fit. Yes I have photos drop me a pm with contact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Mike no it just fits, price wise I made offer and got it cheaper. I was and still considering shortening the brackets by about 5mm as this will hep the fit. Yes I have photos drop me a pm with contact pm sent :t-up: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hopefully I have done this correct and you will see the images, as a few asked about seeing images thought best to attach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 As can be seen its tight so I am looking to reduce the length of the brackets by approx 5-6mm which will move the radiator back in the nose cone to provide a gap rather than touch the nose cone,I am also considering lowering slightly again to create clearance but as can be seen it fits just so maximises the radiator surface area in relation to the nose cone Radiator is mounted upside down to get the connection points on the correct side hence thes are the pins for the rubber mounts, have thought about drilling through one of these to make a inlet connection into the rad for a bleed point if I want one [ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I trimmed the bottom corners so as to create more room in the nose cone these are the fixing points of the radiator Bleed point is cut off and I tapped this to accept a bolt to close the hole off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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