Turning A Perfectly Good Zetec Into A Firebreathing S2000 Build Thread

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

TBH, that's what I assumed Norman had meant; never even considered engine flush treatments, of the sort you pour in and run the engine.

 

After the head work, how did you clean the head casting? How was the block cleaned before reassembly?

 

For a present course of action - yep follow Steve's post. You typically find in the ds pan, most scavenge ports tend to have little mesh finger filters. they won't stop small particles though, but any contamination on them, (apart from reducing scavenge ability), will give you a heads up that crap has got down that far.

[Speed Freak]

reassembly was nothing to do with me-the engine builder did it all-so I can only assume he cleaned it properly, as that's all he does everyday-

thanks for the help lads, even if it is a bitter pill to swallow.

[SteveD]

if there is metal in the engine its from ,skimming of the head etc or a moving part like the dry sumpm pump ,crank ,bearings etc etc and it will have damaged somthing without doubt tbh ,only a full strip down and rebuild will do know im affraid ,thats not what you wanted to hear but its the only way

[SteveD]

trust me if there are metal fragments in the engine you WILL have to strip it down totally and clean every orafice out properly then rebuild it as required with new bearings etc , even strip the pump ,tank,pipe work etc and flush and clean the lot out properly ,you can kid yourself all you want but there is no other way , the bearings are more than likley damaged so you will have to take it appart anyway to check

the fragment have not just stayed in the pump and filter etc they have been pumped around the engine and damaged lots of things

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Particles can get lodged in the sludge and grime that can build up in all the nooks and crannies in an engine, it can take some time to work free, or may never work free, its blind chance i'm afraid.

 

Trouble is, the tolerances are so fine in many areas that once any particles are on the loose, they can soon cause damage to surface causing even more particles to be on the loose.

 

I don't know how the RED pump works, Pace pumps for example have a metal rotor that spins within a metal annulus, where the two meet is a very close, fine tolerance gap. metal fragments going through typically damage the rotor. This very slowly widens the gap, on the scavenge stage, this means less efficient scavenging. On the pressure stage, lower oil pressure.

 

If proper metal fragments are loose in the system, everything will need proper cleaning, oil lines, filter head, oil cooler - sometimes impossible to clean due to the design, oil tank. Not just the engine itself.

[Speed Freak]

the standard red pump is a pace pump, but Im not sure about the race pump Ive got- It does look similar to paces custom pumps.

What liquid should I use to clean out things such as hoses and oil tank? as the oil will no doubt "glue" any metal to the sides- if I tip the tank upside down I can fill it from the lower outlet, and let whatever liquid I use, come out the larger filler cap.

I know steves going to think Im ignoring his advice when I say this, but Im not...- I do however have another question:

should I not find any metal in the sump pan or signs of wear to the bearings, surely the chances of finding any around the engine must be slim then right? Its gotta collect if not partly, at the bottom of the engine if anywhere right?

 

I know steve ur probably thinking, just get the engine in pieces- but just want some understanding before I trundle on.

[Norman Verona]

Do I understand that an engine specialist was the last to strip this engine. If so the ring them first thing Monday morning.

 

You clean swarf from an engine by stripping the block, wash with spirit (petrol) and blow everything out with a high pressure air line. You need to flush and blow.

 

If there's swarf in the filter there's going to be more in the oilways and the pump. You may save expensive work by doing this now. It's just a gasket set and probably new crank bearings at this stage.

[SteveD]

the standard red pump is a pace pump, but Im not sure about the race pump Ive got- It does look similar to paces custom pumps.

What liquid should I use to clean out things such as hoses and oil tank? as the oil will no doubt "glue" any metal to the sides- if I tip the tank upside down I can fill it from the lower outlet, and let whatever liquid I use, come out the larger filler cap.

I know steves going to think Im ignoring his advice when I say this, but Im not...- I do however have another question:

should I not find any metal in the sump pan or signs of wear to the bearings, surely the chances of finding any around the engine must be slim then right? Its gotta collect if not partly, at the bottom of the engine if anywhere right?

 

I know steve ur probably thinking, just get the engine in pieces- but just want some understanding before I trundle on.

tim its not about if , its about what damage it has done to the bearings etc etc , unless you have a crystal ball that can tell you the engines ok then the only way is the right way and take it out and strip it down properly and clean it and replace all bearings etc inc cleaning dry sump parts ,tank etc etc , there is no point not doing it ,i;ll say it for the last time if there are particals of metal in the filter which there were then they will be in the engine to ,

 

last post on this  im off to stick pins in my eye's now and let next doors rottwieler chew my balls

[CL290005]

 

You clean swarf from an engine by stripping the block, wash with spirit (petrol) and blow everything out with a high pressure air line. You need to flush and blow.

I would not recommend using petrol to wash out, unless you are advising on how much is used, where its used (outside), we would not know what is happening around this task.

I would personally use parafin far less of an issue and cleans oil off blocks well

[Norman Verona]

CL, I've used both and prefer petrol. It leaves less of a residue than paraffin. I blow it all out anyway, the petrol is only used to dilute the oil in the galleries. The high pressure air can then blow the minute particles that may be there away.

[CL290005]

Norm

I was just pointing out not from the cleaning point of view but safety aspect, I am aware from previous post you understand spirit but others may not and just go flushing around say a litre of fuel in a single garage, not considering ignition sources etc.

It was more a word of caution

Chris

[thos]

ok then. thanks for the help. Whatever metal or damage I should find, I'll take pics and report back. Maybe you guys wouldn't mind guiding me when the results are back.

 

No disrespect to anyone on this forum, but pictures of engine bits will never be as good as someone with experience have their own look around.

 

As someone already mentioned, if you have had someone do work on this engine already, then call them and discuss your issues.

[Norman Verona]

Chris, sorry, I misunderstood. I seem to think that everyone will know to use petrol in a well ventilated garage.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Whilst a lot, but not all, (  ), "get" the ventilated area, it always surprises me how few seem to grasp the vapour issue. (Which is actually the worst risk when combined with an ignition source).

[Doug Dastardly]

Sorry to hear your news. Can't you just return it to the engine builder, sounds like his problem to me.