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Turning A Perfectly Good Zetec Into A Firebreathing S2000 Build Thread


Speed Freak

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Ive got the full race pump from red-not the standard one they use. The reason was the mounting position-I had issues with the pump catching the lower wishbone. the race pump had a smaller pulley, and mounts higher up the engine, meaning that I didn't have clearance issues... its a billet one and  cost quite a bit more  :cry:

 

thanks for the comment frazer. I didn't realize. I went for a mocul remote filter which has the take off built into it. would a sandwich plate (with take off) that fits to the original oil filter position have been better?

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The take off in the remote filter is more often used for an oil temp gauge.

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Tim. When l had my car the oil pressure was set at 90 psi at 4500 rpm.this was bled off at high revs by the relief valve . The reason it was set that high at 4500 was to enable the cam soliniod to operate at 3800 rpm. The cam change takes at least 15 psi of oil pressure from the bearings etc.

Something to bear in mind with a low cam change point

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Surely too high an oil pressure can blow oil seals!

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hiya mick. Im running stock ecu, so no early vtec engagement for me- Ive read about the relief valve... and by the look of it, the pressure really is too low.... I should be hitting min 80+psi when warm (had email off john beattie). Im getting 4.2bar max at about 4500revs and then no more.so about 60psi.

been reading up about causes of low pressure, and a little worried to say the least (but glad I haven't revved the engine properly yet!).... bearings might be the cause... apparently I can remove the vtec and check if any metal bits are caught in it-easiest way to check first (just 3 bolts)...then itll be the pan off I guess.

the more I think about it the more im sure that in October the pressure was higher-much higher.

oil filter will be changed and inspected for metal bits or blockages too.....

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I would flush the engine and remove, strip and clean the pump. New oil and filter. You should have done this when the engine was stripped.

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as Ive never done it before, would you mind explaining the flushing method...

Ive heard something about using thicker oils and kerosene somewhere before, and running only on tickover for a certain time, then change back to normal oil and filter...?????

With regards to the pump... how simple is this? Are there many small parts inside? Don't want to take the thing apart and then find lots of small pieces that need to find their place again.

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just read this on internet-whats your thoughts?

 

Clean is good, but keep in mind that many manufacturers advise against performing and engine flush on modern vehicles. Chris Martin of Honda goes said, "Our engineers have conducted exhaustive tests to create specialized maintenance products and service standards that support the performance and longevity of Honda vehicles, and these standards don't include engine flushing." Engineers at GM said, "Engine oil flushes are not recommended. If oil is changed on schedule, you shouldn't have to flush the engine."

There may be a few instances where an engine flush is required, but be aware that engine technology has progressed to the point that many newer vehicles not only don't need and engine flush, they may be harmed by the procedure.

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I'm sure you mentioned something about it in the last couple of days, but Im having a senile moment and can't find it.

 

It might be worth giving us some decent detail on what engine works has been done and why; you allude to the engine ingesting something metallic?

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Previous posting crossed. 

 

Given the presence of metallic bits, I'm not sure I'd be flushing with a runing engine. But then depending on your answer to the last question, the particles might be a red herring.

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My definition of engine flushing is something done with the engine in pieces in a parts cleaner. But then I'm paranoid about stuff like that.

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hummm ok.

at first I was told it might be the timing chain tensioner, so did the fix, but it didn't go...

The head cam off to reveal markings on top of a piston.The pistons were still good although lots of markings in tops from metal, and no signs of ring issues, so the piston was smoothed off, and new rings/ head studs and gaskets were put in.

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if there is metal in the filter you can be pretty sure it will have scored the bearings , drop the oil and check inside the sump and the dry sump pump , while the sumps off take a cap off and check a bearing

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I thought I posted similar to  Steve. May be on the desktop awaiting me to click "post".

 

I've said many times that some work needs experience. If I was trying to explain how to do the work Tim has done I may not have said to strip and clean the pump and completely flush the galleries. However, I would have done these things without thinking about it if I was doing this job.

 

Tim, please don't think I'm having a go at you, I'm not. I'm trying to explain that those of us who've been trained sometimes just know to do things but wouldn't state the obvious.

 

Do as Steve suggests and let's hope all is well.

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