Megablade Honda Fireblade Engine Oil

[GreigM]

looks like a normal catch tank - with the blade engine you'd be unlucky to have to empty it once a decade...the little glass piece down the side shows its level.

blade engine should either have a dipstick or a sight glass - sight glass is very low down, so I used to use an inspection mirror...

[Dave the Sparky]

Cheers Ill get an insp mirror...

Dave

[kev91]

I know mine has a dip stick. Although I don't have a catch tank, should the car have one?

[GreigM]

I know mine has a dip stick. Although I don't have a catch tank, should the car have one?

Some say yes, some say no - if you're going on track its not a bad idea. It doesn't have to be expensive either - an aluminium sports drinks bottle with a hose coming from your breather would be sufficient - in fact my original catch tank was simply an old plastic sports bottle cable-tied to the chassis, did the job perfectly and I only replaced it with a "proper" catch tank for cosmetics....I see catch tanks on ebay for £20 which would do the job...

[Johnson]

Dave download the manual in the link I posted earlier it shows the location of the sight glass etc

[Dave the Sparky]

Will do, cheers....(have done now, very helpfull)

Dave

[nickw2000]

What's the opinion then on best oil to use?

[nickw2000]

I have been reading, part synthetic is for road normal use bikes like touring bike, and full synthetic should be used in high reving race typed bike engine or is this just sales talk? I called honda they said they use 10/40 part synthetic motul

[GreigM]

I think the feeling on here was that the fully synth was getting a bit thin when hot and not maintaining pressure as much. Andy Bates (http://www.abperformance.co.uk/) recommends the maxima oils for fireblade engines...and if anyone knows blade engines its andy....I'd be tempted with a maxima 10w40 semi.

In the busa I've been using Silkolene Comp4 10w-40 which is "Synthetic Based" but not fully synth and had no complaints (except for low pressure when very hot, but I believe thats because of an overheating issue and nothing to do with the oil)...never have I had clutch issues.

[nickw2000]

i have just brought this, 5 ltrs for £23 from my local components store millers stocklist.

MILLERS ZSS 10w40

Engine Oil (Semi Synthetic)

Description

High performance semi-synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil. Combination of the highest quality performance additives in synthetic and mineral base stocks.

Application

For engine lubrication of high performance 4-stroke motorcycle, kart and scooter engines specifying a 10w40 viscosity oil. Recommended for the majority of Japanese and European 4 stroke motorcycles.

User Benefits

• Sophisticated performance additive package offers maximum protection and reliability.
  
• Suitable for off-road, on-road and track motorbikes.
  
• Suitable for use in motorbikes fitted with oil immersed �wet� clutches.
  

[GreigM]

Millers stuff gets a good rep, so I imagine it will serve you well. To some extent unless you experience issues (like clutch drag etc) then whatever oil you use will be fine so long as its the correct grade.

[kev91]

I've just went and bought fully synthetic 10w-40 castor power one. Should I be buying semi synthetic or will it make a big difference?

[Dibby]

I use Halfords 10W/40 part synthetic and never hit any troubles. But then I don't race the engine to within an inch of its life and covering so little miles a year, an oil and filter change before I put it on the road in the summer is more than enough.

[GreigM]

To some extent I feel people get a little overly concerned about oil - so long as the engine has suitable oil, is maintaining pressure, and has no clutch issues, then so long as you change it at appropriate intervals for your activity then you shouldn't have any issues.

[Dibby]

Exactly. It's like the age old speaker cable debate in the world of hi-fi. You can spend a fortune getting into diminishing returns and paying for performance you'll never notice unless you're running real high end kit to its limits.