diff removal trick of trade needed!

[JeffC]

nut on, bigger hammer , bigger swings, it will come out  

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I remember when I built mine, without reaming those lower metastics a little, there was no way the threaded bar would have gone through, even now it's still tight. Throw in a bit of rust on the metal sleeve of the bushes and it's easy to see how it could end up solid. When

Fortunately when swapped diff's a couple of years ago, the copperslip had done its trick, and only a hammer and a drift were needed to get the thing out.

[perksy]

Soak it in Plusgas (Wd 40 on steroids) and leave it for awhile

Try not to bend the threaded part or you'll struggle to get it out at all    

Try rotating it slightly on the hexagon end and then try it again

If it starts to move keep rotating it slightly and keep going at that

Screw some nuts on to protect the thread and use a decent sized hammer and use a drift if your having trouble getting the hammer in

(I have a big hammer for things like this           )

Definatly use coppaslip on re-assembly

[jeff oakley]

As others have said, plenty of plus gas or wd 40 leave overnight. Then find some washers bigger than the shaft and wind the nut on just one side as hard as you can. Then on the otherside try to hit it square on. It may be possible to use a bottle jack on it's side as a hydraulic press using some angle iron. The reason they are hard to do is because it will have been put in unlubricated and when you are hitting it to break the rust seal the rubber in the bush absorbs a lot of the inertia of the blow

[perksy]

Just a thought on this one    

Make sure the chassis is well supported when your swinging the hammer or you might just end up in A & E  

Come to think of it you haven't just got it supported under the Diff on the trolley jack have you      

[John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison]

Lock 2 nuts on one end and get someone to rotate it whilst you whack the other end

[pistonbroke]

What about some heat ?

[ACW]

Lock 2 nuts on one end and get someone to rotate it whilst you whack the other end

Wot he said. Once you get it rotating it should break up the corrosion.

[Cleggy the Spyder Man]

as the above - but if all else fails you may have to see if you can get a hacksaw blade and chop the threaded bar either side

you can then get the diff out to give it some full beans on the bench

[Cleggy the Spyder Man]

Come to think of it you haven't just got it supported under the Diff on the trolley jack have you      

the last picture does show the jack under the diff  

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Been a while with no news; perhaps someone should nip out to the garage and check Tims not now pinned under the diff and half a Westfield    

[Speed Freak]

 

still here. sorry, was out last night.

the car is up on stands, diff held on jack.

the 2 nut idea I tried, but as you cant get much leverage was to no avail. will see if I can rope someone in to help me, and will then try the hitting/unscrewing at same time idea.

cheers for all the advice.

never thought knocking a bolt out could be so damn hard!

[Speed Freak]

well had a mate over to give a hand- bolt still not out, but we managed to get it to move atleast. the one side has been pushed in flush to chassis mount-tbh I thought that once we got it to move it would pull out-but no. its as tight as a nats A***!so now in need of some sort of rod thats small enough to push through bolt, but long enough to hit at from side of car  

we'll get there in the end!

finally attacked the dry sump today, so oil pump and tensioner are off, pans nice and clean, just got to clean up block and on she'll go in the morning.

anyone got a tip how to get off the crankshaft bolt without the engine turning over? tried jamming something in the teeth of flywheel but cant get it to bite enough.

no chance of jamming (from underneath) onto a rod or similar as its all a bit slimline down there and i dont want to be replacing that!- is an airgun the way to go?maybe jolt it lose???

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Can you not bolt a piece of steel bar across the flywheel using the clutch mounting holes or something? (I've had to do similar before when the little forked flywheel locking tool I've got went AWOL.)

[Speed Freak]

yeh I did think about that-only the clutch bolts are some funky jap ones. like a star end, only double to amount of arms! would mean simply buying the correct tool-

was trying to avoid another trip to halfords!