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warning, old engines


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Posted
bad news for my old 911 Porker then......;-(
Posted
bad news for my old 911 Porker then......;-(

Wanted a 993 but bought a 996 as the 993's were getting expensive - lucky stroke for me!

Posted
there will be plenty of addatives dunna worry
Posted
Super unleaded is I believe going to stay at 5%
Posted

Vital of course , to enable us all to slow down climate change  :t-up:

save the planet

:suspect:  :suspect:  :suspect:

Posted
Vital for the government to screw us harder and charge us more as they water down fuel!!
Posted
Vital for the government to screw us harder and charge us more as they water down fuel!!

Actually bio fuel has a higher calorific value. If the engine is tuned properly for it will make more power.

Posted
Not that I have anything that old, but what's it likely to do if you just uise it anyway??
Posted

Vital for the government to screw us harder and charge us more as they water down fuel!!

Isn't ethanol, the bio bit of bio-fuels, what they used to run Dragsters on ;)

Posted
Everybody is talking about the daily driver here. What will this mean for kits? Any advice from Jenvey, etc?
Posted
Everybody is talking about the daily driver here. What will this mean for kits? Any advice from Jenvey, etc?

Exactly, aluminium fuel rails, (un-anodised, does anodising make a difference?) Rubber o rings in the rails, what about the actual TB's themselves, or by the time the fuel is atomised does it not affect things so much. Hoses have been discussed quite a bit on here already. Obviously we then have alloy tanks on the majority of Westfields. I have seen the sealing compounds you tip in there to coat the insides when you have a weep from the tank, (IIRC The POR15 people make one), but what's the best sealant to protect from bio fuel?

Posted
Vital for the government to screw us harder and charge us more as they water down fuel!!

Isn't ethanol, the bio bit of bio-fuels, what they used to run Dragsters on <!--emo&;)

I think it was methanol. With nitromethane dissolved in it.

A sort of high explosive mixture. But then they did/do replace the pistons between runs, in the paddock as part of the routine run preparation, I believe!!

Posted

try dealing with 1930 cars for a living! brass, cork, copper, rubber in all of the fuel system :bangshead:

Biggest problem we have at the moment is cork washers, which last about 6 months before falling apart. Also fuel left in the tank for about 3 or 4 months turns into a misfiring, oily gummy liquid that sometimes needs the carbs stripping down completely to clean out.

The Federation of British historic vehicle clubs is doing some test work on additives in the similar to the work done on lead replacement additives. As the americans have had to live with the problem for a while there are a few snake oil brews on the market, some from respected companies, so hopefully they will prove to offer some help. we use an additive from Frosts when a vehicle is being laid up, which seems to help.

Adds an extra hassle to keeping vintage cars on the road :0 Although the original owners don't help - 1932 Rolls-Royce being dragged out of lake Geneva after the first owner misjudged the road!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos....7_n.jpg264877_10150296299486908_530341907_9424181_3592677_n.jpg

Posted

Doh,  :durr: Thanks Stephen, knew there was an ethanol in there somewhere, just forgot the m!  :blush:

Wow Steve, that's a lovely looking restoration.

I've seen that stuff in the Frosts catalogue, wondered if it was any good.  :D

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