Newbie Westie and Megabusa questions

[chrisnic365]

Hi all

I'm currently running a duratec S1 Elise but have been thinking about a Westfield for a while. After helping build and having driven a few Caterhams I'm comfortable with the 7 format although I'll admit to never having driven a Westie to compare directly.

I'm interested in Westfields over Caterhams simply because I feel they offer far better value for money (I'll be buying second hand) and I'm interested in something a lot more hardcore than the Elise so bike engines are appealing.

I've been for a few pax rides in bike powered Westies and always had a grin afterwards.

Thinking of buying this:

http://pistonheads.com/sales/3213404.htm

but while I arrange a test drive I have a lot of newbie questions!

I have no intent in modifying the busa beyond it's standard size/power etc. so assuming it stays standard but is used almost exclusively for track days what's the average lifespan of the engine? And what's the typical replacement cost if it does go pop?

What are the typical things to watch for on the MegaBusa? are there any known issues or problems to fix given a track focused car?

Does anyone know the car linked above?

Obviously not road legal without headlights or front indicators. I'm assuming it's not too much effort to retro fit them? I do need the car road legal as I don't have a trailer (yet). It'll be a shame to fit the lights as the car looks better without but all in the name of usability etc.

sorry this is a bit wordy and probably covered a ton of times but I've heard such a range of stories about the MegaBusa it's difficult to know what's what!

cheers in advance

Chris

[Terry Everall]

The track busa is best without a reverse box fitted as the prop and connections work loose.

The achilles heel is the gearbox which can play up and need a rebuilt every so often.

Car looks ok but a bit pricey I think

If it uses the "Westfield" dry sump system it has been known to have problems compared to other systems such as TTs or Extreme

The Westfield factory clutch bracket can also fracture

Silencer might need to be bigger to get through noise restrictions

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

You need to find out if it's ever been on the road; if not, there'll be a lot more work to do than just fitting lights, as it need IVA'ing, and if it's been built purely as a track car there may be quite a few tricky bits to get through.

If it has been on the road, but had a big rebuild when it was repainted, (looks to have been red originally, though that might just be the nose?), then check to see if it's still got the wiring and switch gear for lighting.

The advert's a bit sparse with. The details really, so hard to tell if it's good value or not.

Jeff C one here has run quite a few Megabusas over the years. Seem to recall his biggest issues, with reasonably standard engines at least, were cooling related. But that fitting a decent, large oil cooler fixed that. (for heavy track use that is   )

[perksy]

Obviously not road legal without headlights or front indicators. I'm assuming it's not too much effort to retro fit them? I do need the car road legal as I don't have a trailer (yet). It'll be a shame to fit the lights as the car looks better without but all in the name of usability etc.

Chris

Welcome    

If you need a road legal car get a correctly registered one to start with

It will save you alot of expense and hassle

[GreigM]

The engine itself is pretty tough - I use mine on track and give it a good hammering each time, but am careful about warming up correctly and regularly changing the oil and the engine itself has given me zero grief.

However I've had endless problems with the WF dry sump system - partly because I was sold dodgy bolts to hold the pulley wheel on, and partly because it hadn't been looked after before me - it needs to be "serviced" occasionally to make sure the pump turns freely, it has a good belt and the internals are in good order.  I think if its looked after it will be fine.

When I got the car the gearbox wasn't in great condition, so I replaced the internals and has been great since.  I also fitted a flatshifter max system so have push button up/downshift which is great fun - its not perfect but will protect the gearbox somewhat and I reckon with this you won't have any issues.

If it does all go wrong the engines can be rebuilt fairly simply, or a replacement 2nd hand engine will cost somewhere between £1000-1500.

I've never had an issue with cooling, but I had an oil cooler fitted when I got the car.

[chrisnic365]

thanks guys.

The dealer price is a grand lower than the PistonHeads advert whic his good. They're calling me again tomorrow so I'll go over all the SVA stuff. Given it's a 2010 car with only 1000 miles on it I'm hoping it was SVA'd and then a second nose was used to get ride of holes etc. Lot to hope for I appreciate.

I'll check for any additional oil cooling as well.

Re the issues with having a reverse box fitted, are these easy to overcome?

[chrisnic365]

The dealer is getting the owner to call me back but the good news is that it's fully road legal and tax'd etc. makes things a lot easier!

[GreigM]

Re the issues with having a reverse box fitted, are these easy to overcome?

I don't have a problem with mine - the first time it came loose I replaced all the nuts and bolts with good binx nuts and anti-rattle washers, dab on some loctite and got them up to torque properly and it hasn't come loose since.

I think a lot of the problems stem from the fact its difficult to access and I'd suggest the bolts aren't being properly tightened.

[chrisnic365]

thanks.

So I've spoken in some length to the current owners now and the situation is as follows:

It was a car bought complete to take their customers round tracks as part of the service they offer to those buying lambos etc.

It had an off at castle comb. Hit the tyres and bent the nearside front suspension. Had to replace the both wishbones, the steering arm and hub nose. Wheel also dented the manifold.

As a result of the crash (which he thinks was at about 20mph) it was repainted, and in addition to the above had new wheels, tyres, brakes, oil cooler and dampers. They then built the cage to match. The chassis was laser checked and confirmed fine.

The paintwork hasn’t been done on the cheap but in places you can see the original (yellow) paint. Specifically where the engine bay cover has been on and off. Additionally the inside of the nose is red.

The hayabusa has about 5000 miles on it. Car has 1000.

It’s fully road legal/taxed/tec. and they will put the headlights back on.

Says that the only real things to consider doing are getting a new repackable exhaust as it struggles for noise limits on some track days. Also it’s not been corner weighted or geo’d since rebuild.

[RedditchJay]

tread slowly and check out others that are or may come for sale over the next few months...... rule of thumb BUY with you head not your heart.....

[Luke Algar]

Hi Chris, if you can give me either your email address or number I can give you some more information on this car.

Luke

[chrisnic365]

Hi Chris, if you can give me either your email address or number I can give you some more information on this car.

Luke

Hi Luke

would really appreciate that. Can't use the contact page to get your details (guess that's because I've not yet paid up!).

If you could call me on the mobile on this page that would be great:

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3462728.htm

cheers

C

[chrisnic365]

Hi Luke, thanks for the call the other day. When you get a chance please can you mail those pics through to chris n at microsoft dot com ?