Jump to content

SDV Engine Installation


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone put their Pinto into their SDV yet and if so what ancillaries did they put on the engine before  they shoe horned it in?

I hope to put mine in this weekend but its obviously easier to get the bits put on while the engine is out.  

B4 anyone mentions the alternator that will have to wait -just in case it don't fit.

Also, how does the gearbox mount that WF supply fit to the gearbox and plate - I can't see any mounting on the bottom of the G-box.

Thanks

Stuart

Posted

There is a bracket that fits ( bolts ) to underside of the gearbox. This is fixed to chassis plate by 1 bolt on each side

Posted

i dropped mine with the starter off and kept the old sump on for trolley jack postioning etc, take off the brake pipe to the front tee piece as i ******* mine!!!!!!, also measure up the gearbox mount and scribe lines on the mounting plate to get it central, as a guide, and have the prop fitted to the diff already.

I found using a right angle drill helped me out to drill out the mounting plate. the engine is all in but the from end of the engine isnt level, so i may put a spacer under the engine brackets, has anyone else noticed this problem?

Steve

Oh and jack up the rear abit if you havent got helping hands to get the angle right with the box as its got to be steep to clear everything.

Posted
but the from end of the engine isnt level, so i may put a spacer under the engine brackets, has anyone else noticed this problem?

It's not a problem. It's how they are. Both my Vx, and Cossie engines slope forwards a bit......

Posted

Well I've got the pulleys & belt on, plus the dissy, engine mounts, oil filter, gearbox (+extension), short sump.

Hopefully nothing will catch too much, now just to find the point of balance for the straps.

Wish me luck

Stuart

Posted

get the engine (and gbox) to about 45 degrees (gear box pointing down) and the car about 30 when you start (front up). Then when the gearbox is as far into the tunnel as you can get it start lowering the engine and car and pushing the gearbox into the tunnel further.  The front brake pipe T piece is close but you should be able to get it in without hitting it.  

Best advice is to take your time, after each lowering check all aroung the car to see that nothing is going wrong.  Not to sound like a show off, but I put my lump in single-handidly and with an ancient block and tackle. I think it took the best part of two hours to get it in and lined up, I then waited a day or so before drilling the holes for the mounts.

Good luck, It is definately the best/most satisfying part of the build so far.

Stevo

Posted

Thanks all, if the replacement cycle bracket doesn't appear by early tomorrow it may be academic for this weekend afterall, as I won't be able to manouvre the car.

Stuart

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.