robo1968 Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Whilst peering into the space after removing boot box - all seems well apart from a some rust spots. It's mostly on the bolts ie. the nuts that secure the harness eye points and some of the suspension nuts. There are 1 or 2 patches that seem to be spreading to some powder coated bits. I was wanting to remove it and protect it as one of my winter projects but what is the best method of a: removing it and b: protecting it from future rust? Is it better to replace all rusty nuts? What is a good product to use for preventing future rust? Quote
fatbaldbloke Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 QUOTE What is a good product to use for preventing future rust? POR 15 gets a good press. I'm using it on my rebuild. Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 POR15 is excellent for chassis work, extremely tough once set, but for Gawd's sake don't get it on your hands. Have a look on Frosts web site for all the details, including their Metal Ready Primer and top coats you can cover the POR15 with if it's going to be exposed to UV. Once done ACF50 is a spray on protection you can use to help keep the dreaded rust at bay. (better than WD40 for this) Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Must type faster POR15 works better on a keyed slightly rough surface, so it's not critical to sand or grind all the rust away. Just get rid of the loose stuff and make sure it's clean and degreased. Then a coating of the Metal Ready Primer will help even more. Quote
robo1968 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 Thanks! I'll probably not worry about the primer stuff as it wont see daylight. So you wouldn't bother to replace the rusty nuts? Sandpaper ok for removal (how about wire brush?) then apply the por15? Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 POR15 Data sheet General instructions/info here. FWIW, I've used some of those little wire brush things you pop in a cordless drill, where access has been poor I've also use 3M Scotchbrite pads. It's really just to get rid of any loose surface rust. POR15 actually works better or a slightly rough rusty surface - as long as it's clean (de-greased), and dry. But use whatever you need to get the loose stuff off! It might also be worth checking to see if you've got any powdercoat lifting around the corroded area - WF powdercoat does have a habit of doing that, it can be what lets the rust in in the first place. If there is any loose or lifting coating, I usually abrade that back too, even if it means exposing a little good steel. Frosts sell starter packs that have cleaner, Metal Ready and POR15 in that are worth considering. I'd also consider buying the packs of several little tins rather than one big one; it seems to last for ages - a little goes a long way, but the bigger tins get a b****r to keep opening and resealing after a bit. Quote
Dommo Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 but the bigger tins get a b****r to keep opening and resealing after a bit. I second that, I'm surprised (and glad) the tin hasn't exploded in my face when removing the lid sometimes! Quote
fatbaldbloke Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 Totally agree about pack size. I bought the 6 pack with 3 rust treatments and 3 chassis black tins. The lids are something special..... Quote
perksy Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 Had some POR 15 go off in a tin once and tested how hard it was with a hammer and chisel The chisel lost... As said above its very good stuff Just make sure you read the health and safety data Quote
Gromit Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 If your using POR15 a good tip is to store it in the fridge once you`ve opened the tin as it`ll last longer and not go off as quick.I`ve used it on my Jetta that i`m restorong and it is very hardwearing. Quote
Tonsko Posted December 4, 2011 Posted December 4, 2011 Can imagine the convo at home. "What's this tin in the fridge?" "That's por15. It's rust proofing." "Get it out. Now." Quote
smorse Posted December 4, 2011 Posted December 4, 2011 my scooter especially during winter is liberally sprayed with WD40, i did the same to the boot box area on my westy, no rust anywhere Quote
Wile E. Coyote Posted December 4, 2011 Posted December 4, 2011 Can imagine the convo at home. "What's this tin in the fridge?" "That's por15. It's rust proofing." "Get it out. Now." Perfect justification (if any were needed) for a fridge in the garage... Do however expect the "well, it needs to live in a fridge, so I'll need to get one for the garage then dear" to be met with "fine" (the true meaning of which you can accidentally ignore...). Quote
robo1968 Posted December 4, 2011 Author Posted December 4, 2011 Is it ok to coat things like nuts on suspension etc. Will that mean they will never undo again? BTW I read about a good tip on a different forum that if you put some cling film between tin and lid before sealing it - it stops the por15 bonding the metal lid on for good. Quote
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