deanoecosse Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Question for anyone that's done it recently, what's the score with IVA as far as having the rear suspension bolts with the nut end towards the tank? obviously providing the threaded part of the bolt protrudes no more than the acceptable minimum. I only ask, because if it is allowable, it means you can take the rear upper suspension arms off without removing the tank first, (on a regular SEi at least, the Mazda may be different. That was a question I asked out of interest at my IVA test, because I wanted to fit the bolts the other way round for ease of removal, as you've pointed out. The examiner said he would have failed the car on that point if the bolts had been fitted with the threaded end facing the tank due to the puncture risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Looking good Gary. Engine must be up next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Looking good Gary. Engine must be up next Thanks Engine is almost back together, and the plan is to fit it complete next weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Nice one, coming along very nicely. Getting the engine in is fun. As most of the holes don't line up for the engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Nice one, coming along very nicely. Getting the engine in is fun. As most of the holes don't line up for the engine mounts. I know the left hand (passenger) side engine mount needs redrilling - are there others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 You should be ok with just the passenger side. Just make sure that you get underneath and check the clearance on the gearbox in the tunnel before you fully commit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 You should be ok with just the passenger side. Just make sure that you get underneath and check the clearance on the gearbox in the tunnel before you fully commit. There's a small lump on the drivers side of the gearbox at the gearstick end that sticks out the side right in line with one of the vertical chassis tubes. You get everything lined up nicely, thinking you have 10mm clearance between the box and the chassis and then drill the gearbox mountings only to find later that a stupid bit of casting you nissed earlier that has no purpose is touching the chassis been there, got the T-shirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Thanks chaps - all good tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 flying along - well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Question for anyone that's done it recently, what's the score with IVA as far as having the rear suspension bolts with the nut end towards the tank? obviously providing the threaded part of the bolt protrudes no more than the acceptable minimum. I only ask, because if it is allowable, it means you can take the rear upper suspension arms off without removing the tank first, (on a regular SEi at least, the Mazda may be different. That was a question I asked out of interest at my IVA test, because I wanted to fit the bolts the other way round for ease of removal, as you've pointed out. The examiner said he would have failed the car on that point if the bolts had been fitted with the threaded end facing the tank due to the puncture risk. Yep, I thought it might be "dubious", I fitted mine the Westfield way, (bolt heads to the back, nuts to the front ) when I built mine too. Then had to strip half the back of the car down when upgrading to nylon bushes later on. The reverse bolt tip was one I remember coming across at that point, but like you say, its strictly for post IVA only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikpro Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Next, I fitted the IVA bar to the rear suspension Looking a nice quality build - but needs longer bolts through upper rear wishbone from pic. Washer also in wrong location - should be under bolt head and not between tank protection strap and wishbone pick-up point. Good stuff though and coming along brill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Next, I fitted the IVA bar to the rear suspension Looking a nice quality build - but needs longer bolts through upper rear wishbone from pic. Washer also in wrong location - should be under bolt head and not between tank protection strap and wishbone pick-up point. Good stuff though and coming along brill. Thanks I did wonder about washer location - it has got to come off again as the bar is upside down, I will check the bolt length at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I've got 4" bolts through the wishbones and think I've got enough thread showing to cater for the protection bad - will find out later next month! Good work, it's nice to have someone a step ahead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Turned the IVA bar around tonight - only took a few minutes Then I started to have a look at the handbrake, but cannot find the spacers that the build manual calls for for the front fixings on the lever, but I can cut a couple out of the old diff spacer. Also not got the 65mm M8 bolts (manual says M6!!), so ordered some of these tonight. My initital reaction is that it could prove troublesome getting the handbrake to work well - any tips or learning to share here lads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 My initital reaction is that it could prove troublesome getting the handbrake to work well - any tips or learning to share here lads? Biggest problem I had was not the adjustment of the cables, getting that right and pulling evenly on both wheels is pretty easy to do with the grub screws on the calipers, but my issue was that westfield had welded the handbrake mounting bracket on my car in slightly the wrong position. I had to shorten the cable and have now fitted a turnbuckle to make cable adjustment quicker and easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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