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Kugawestie's MX5 SDV Build Thread - Now An Upgrade Thread


KugaWestie

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Ok guys, time to start the build thread.

Any advice and tips welcome

P clips and rivets arrived from Westfield today, as well as a new Clutch Master cylinder.

This enabled me to start fitting the fuel lines.

2 are complete and the third line is all bent ready to fit, but need some more P clips, Westfield sent me loads of brake line clips instead of fuel line clips, so now need to get some more clips before I can fix the last fuel line.

Then I think I will be able to flip her over and start getting into it!

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:t-up: horray another build thread.

One tip you might want to think about is to get the fuel lines as close to the cluch M/C as possible.  The end of the clutch fork on mines runs very close to these to the extent that I actually now have a small pair of dents in the drivers footwell panel where on occasions they touch at full clutch travel.

This is where mine are

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:t-up: horray another build thread.

One tip you might want to think about is to get the fuel lines as close to the cluch M/C as possible.  The end of the clutch fork on mines runs very close to these to the extent that I actually now have a small pair of dents in the drivers footwell panel where on occasions they touch at full clutch travel.

This is where mine are

Thanks

Maybe worth redoing the p clip on the fuel pipe nearest to the tunnel then to get the fuel line over closer to the other one?

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looks good mate i orderd fule pipe yesterday hope to get them monday and clips

Cheers, are you at a similar stage in the build then?

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The build manual says a 20mm gap between the edge and the first fuel pipe. Still, you're doing better with those pipes than I did! :D
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The build manual says a 20mm gap between the edge and the first fuel pipe. Still, you're doing better with those pipes than I did! :D

Westfield fitted mine for me :D but I still had to move them over further  :p I'm not looking forward to fitting them on the narrow car :oops:

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The build manual says a 20mm gap between the edge and the first fuel pipe. Still, you're doing better with those pipes than I did! :D

Think I might have to jig that first pipe over a bit, maybe trim my old fuel pipe rubber protectors back a bit to squeeze it over

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yes mine is a total rebuild as was never finished by the last guy its good to see some pics of how things are done as i have no build manual keep up the good work mate
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yes mine is a total rebuild as was never finished by the last guy its good to see some pics of how things are done as i have no build manual keep up the good work mate

I have a manual that I can email to you if you like

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Was out and around town today, and went past a Maplins, so I sleered in there and bought some more P Clips  :D

Got home and stole a couple of hours in the garage this afternoon, and completed the fuel lines, also I adjusted the ones by the clutch m/c to get them as far away from the tunnel as possible.

Then flipped her over (on my own  ??? ) and fitted the clutch M/C.

Next up - rear loom  :p

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Completed the rear loom today, very pleased with it.

Also moved on to check all the rear and front suspension assemblies, and these are all good, just need tightening up at the right time.

Completed the fixing of the headlamp mounting bracketc, complete with pop rivet.

Then started looking at putting the diff in, but cannot find the 7/16 x 4.5 inch UNF bolts anywhere, so looks like I will need to try and find some of these.

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Question - the manual says "cable tie the loom" - Am I ok to just cable tie, or should I pop rivet clips onto the frame first and then cable tie to them? Is it an IVA requirement?

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Question - the manual says "cable tie the loom" - Am I ok to just cable tie, or should I pop rivet clips onto the frame first and then cable tie to them? Is it an IVA requirement?

For the rear loom I ran the bundle of wires through plastic P-clips, for the front looms I used the large metal P-clips with the rubber lining and then pop riveted it to the chassis.

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Use Cable tie basses - rivet the basses to the chassis then run a cable tie through them to secure the loom.

Looks neat and professional - don't put cable ties round the chassis member - it looks awful and rubs off powder coat.

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Use Cable tie basses - rivet the basses to the chassis then run a cable tie through them to secure the loom.

Looks neat and professional - don't put cable ties round the chassis member - it looks awful and rubs off powder coat.

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Thanks

I have got some of those, so will do that

Did you see my e-mail the other day regarding crankshaft bearings?

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