Torque setting for rear hub nuts??

[Andy (Sycho)]

I also thought it was a 41mm nut!

[Kingster]

In that case sounds the same as my Sierra ones. I am pretty sure I did mine up to 250lbft but then someone mentions Nm and I think oh must have been that then, but it was 250! I'd have looked it up at the time

The 41mm socket wasn't easy to find had to order one online.

My rear wheel centres are not big enough to allow socket to fit, so had to jack up the car, put in 5th, chock the front wheels, apply brakes with a wedged in bit of wood and use a big torque wrench to get them tight. Might even have had a bit of tube over the wrench, but can't recall (it's an age thing!)

[Andy (Sycho)]

Yes I think they are the same but if you do have a 31mm nut you should be able to leave the wheel on which would make it easier.

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Yes Ian they need to be 250ftlb 339 Newton meters , what did you torque them to?

Hi Andy,

 

I didn't touch them during build as the hubs came all pre-assembled and didn't rock when new. They were also locked in position.

 

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

A couple of things, rears are as stated "bl**** tight", though now the confusion has been sown, I'd need to check if it was NM or not.

The rears, other than torquing up are non adjustable, unlike the front. So if they're torqued up correctly and there's play, I'm afraid the bearings might be goosed.

With the exception of Mazda SDV, all the Independant rear cars with Sierra/Scorpio different use Sierra rear hubs/stub shafts. (Though the hubs are modified) and use a Volvo 440 (front?) wheel bearing.

However, although the thread sizes are the same, there are at least two sizes of socket required that I've come across; the larger fonts the left and right handed thread OEM style Ford parts and on more recent cars, some have an aftermarket stub shaft, which come with a smaller (across the flats) nut, that are all right hand threaded, but have a weakened section which must be staked down into a matching groove on the stub axle.

[Kingster]

A couple of things, rears are as stated "bl**** tight", though now the confusion has been sown, I'd need to check if it was NM or not.

Glad it's not just me!

First thought was yep defo 250lbft, then saw Nm mentioned at suddenly thought "or was it..."

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Kwik fit have confirmed both to be a 250ibft. The mechanic suggested that the play I've noticed, could be to allow expansion when warm. Both sides still have a very slight amount of play when rocking top to bottom, but nothing side to side. They didn't even charge me! Though I did turn up with the wheel centres removed and the retainers ready!

[Andy (Sycho)]

Are you sure the play is on the bearing? I would have thought it would be side to side aswell.

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Are you sure the play is on the bearing? I would have thought it would be side to side aswell.

Agreed, it's only with my hands at 12 O clock and 6 O clock. It's not the hub to wishbones. Front passenger side was the same but that went when I tightened it up.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Interestingly, I've heard of this odd check before from the old hands that can feel the degree of wear/tightness in bearings as easy as breath.

I don't know if it's right or not but rocking at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock signified something different to rocking at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

I forget which way round it was now, but one signified bearings and the other, I think, suspension. Of course, I might be over Si plifying what they were trying to tell me!