Jump to content

Copper fuel pipe connection


Recommended Posts

Posted
Hello, im at a stage in my build where i can start to fit the fuel pipes, im going to be using copper fuel pipe and wanted to know how you would connect the rubber fuel pipe to the copper i.e would you flare the end of the copper and push it over or are there any other type of fittings you can use without flaring to stop the pipe blowing off? Thanks
Posted

i think fuel lines have been covered before, do a search. Copper is not really a good medium for fuel lines better to go braided if you can,

lewis

Posted
I have used copper without problems. I flared the ends but used bulkhead fittings to join to braided hose and goodrich fittings.
Posted
I soldered an olive to the end about 10mm from the end, then secured with a jubilee clip just behind it. Never had a problem in 5 years :D
Posted

Braided has a number of issues too though, worth having a search for the recent threads.

Had a very small fuel leak a month or two back; no petrol dripping out any where, just a fuel smell in the engine bay and residual fuel pressure that would drop like a stone once the engine was turned off. Turned out to be a pinhole leak in one hose, but the fuel would spread out over the surface of the hose, beneath the stainless braid, presumably evaporating rather than dripping. Took a long time to find, and even then ended up once I'd got the suspect length of Aeroquip hose off the car, stripping part of the braid away as a sanity check. Found the hole though.  :D

Posted
As tigger, olive soldered on.
Posted
No need to solder the olive. Just put the olive on the pipe and tighten a compression fitting onto it. Remove fitting and the olive will be compressed on the pipe and you can use the fitting over and over again to fit more olives.
Posted
No need to solder the olive. Just put the olive on the pipe and tighten a compression fitting onto it. Remove fitting and the olive will be compressed on the pipe and you can use the fitting over and over again to fit more olives.

Good idea for one end but when you get to the other, you won't be able to remove the screwed end coz it will have an olive on it or even worse, 50 clips holding it to the chassis ???  :oops:

Posted

This is what I have used to joint the coper pipe to the braided pipe.

Bulk head adaptor

Posted
This is what I have used to joint the coper pipe to the braided pipe.

Bulk head adaptor

Maybe I am thick but how do you connect that to the copper pipe. I assume you must have a tube nut and a tool to flare the end of the pipe?

Posted

I have used copper without problems. I flared the ends but used bulkhead fittings to join to braided hose and goodrich fittings.

Posted

I have read the above with interest, when working in the Automotive Industry as a manufacturer of brake and fuel lines it was discovered that modern unleaded fuels can leach out copper from copper fuel lines, that over time cause deposits on the fuel injectors initiating failure.

No car manufacturer uses copper for fuel lines, I realise that manufacturers are looking long term, however there is an effect.

Brake lines also should not be made from copper, I realise that brake lines on new vehicles look like copper, but this is just a coating that is part of the tri-laminate construction of brake lines that are steel.

Copper tube has a comparatively low burst pressure.

There are other threads I have written here that describe manufacture of brake pipes.

For a few quid I woudn't compromise my safety by using inferior materials.

I use PTFE stainless steel overbraided throughout for brake lines, superior fluid dynamics and perormance.

Rubber flexible hoses have a burst pressure lower than copper.

Posted

Thanks for that but I really for the milage I do I am not at all concerned by the use of copper. ;)

Also the burst pressure of 3/8 copper pipe is 6000psi a safe working pressure is 1450psi. As for brake pipes the burst pressure is 14000psi and a safe working pressure of 3100psi. I am happy that I have more than enough margin in both brake pipes and fuel lines to not cause a problem. ;)

Posted
I have used copper without problems. I flared the ends but used bulkhead fittings to join to braided hose and goodrich fittings.

Okay, without compounding my stupidity, when I looked the tube nuts and the JIC ends were needing a special angle flare, IIRC 37o. I have a Sykes Brake tool with all the ends but the angle was wrong. Did you use one of those or something else to make the flare?

Posted
Yes Jeff thats what I used and have never had a leak so use with confidence mate. ;)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.