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starting motors and 1700 cross flow


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Posted

anyone got any tips on getting a 1700 crosflow reliable to start ? what is the best starter motor or is it worht invetsing in a high torque strarter, maybe a motorsport one and if so does anyone have any recommendations ?

any help much appreciated

andrew

Posted
When do you have 'problems' starting it? After it is stood for a long time, cold, hot?
Posted
I ran a 1700 crossflow for four years and never had any problems with a boggo standard starter
Posted

Me too Cleggy - I had the old inertia type. It managed to start the car in gear up hilll with a passenger in once when the clutch cable broke.

- duff battery.

- duff starter.

- bad connections.

- bad earth.

So I would check all the above. When mine did fail and cranked the car over slowly it turned out to be dirty brushes which I cleaned up with some fine paper.

Bad connections or earths are a favourite fault too, mind you so are little used batteries !

Posted
i have only just bought the car and then could not start the car went to a garage and they said the starter was gone but could not get the right type of starter, two they orderred did not fit or work so they had the original reconditioned but it still makes a gr
Posted

I burnt two standards out and had regular problems, so invested in a Brise high torque with in built solenoid. Other HT starters did not fit due to chassis rail.

I also have a starting procedure, ignition on and let the fuel pump pressure the system, press the "go" pedal around 4 - 5 times, turn it over and starts first time...

Posted

We have been assuming it's not spinning the engine over fast enough - if it's not engaging properly it may be worn ring gear. Starters are widely available.

do you know if it's a pre engaged or inertia type. ?

Posted

My 1700 Crossflow starter motor jammed in the ring gear (that sounds awful) the other day. It's always been a bit tricky. Took the starter motor off and the pinion is well chewed after years of service.

Met an old style expert in Beckenham who told me the old inertia type starter was a brutal thing that gave lots of trouble and is easily replaced by the pre engaged type. straight off the old escort and plenty good enough for a crossflow. The ring gear may be damaged but in converting to the pre engaged type the pinion engages on the front side instead which is likely to be in much better shape

The chap replaced the pinion on mine and it only cost about £20.00. Here's the good bit - when i went back to get it he produced a new pre engaged one he found from old stock and offered it to me for £60. I plan to get it when I do a re build - but it is available.

Posted

I always ran mine on an inertia type and as long as the list in Hammy's post was sorted never had a problem starting it.

If you do go for a pre engaged you will need to ensure that your exhaust manifold will give you the clearance you need.  The stainless system from Westfield allows you to get the starter in but because the selonoid is part of the started it is very close to the manifold.

Posted
thanks everyone for your help on this i will have to have a play around with it and see what i can sort
Posted

I may be wrong but I am sure the pre-engaged requires a differant ring gear.  Refer to the Burton catalogue.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I had a problem with poor starting and burning out starter motors. This was caused by having a pre-engaged starter and inertia ring gear,these did not mesh very well and put to much load on the starter. Replaced to inertia,now starts fine.

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