Quick_Learner Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 Engine/trans in, cooling underway, rear end sorted, electrics starting soon. So at what point do i commit to putting the bodywork on?? I wouldnt want to be working for too long on the mechanical side of things with the bodywork on. However, i dont think i can bleed brakes, attach heater, complete electrics without the majority of the panels on. Is it just one of those things? Id love to have it powered and stopping with no bodywork on but it doesnt look possible. Just cover with blankets and hope that my zips and buckles (nudge nudge) dont scratch the pants off it? or is there a way around this? Comments sought. Also that horrible steel sump issue didnt resolve itself , anyone got a cast wet one for sale? Thanks. Quote
Andrew Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 What's stopping you bleeding the brakes? I'm sure I had brakes, clutch, and an accelerator, (using a cobbled up ignition system) before I fitted any bodywork Quote
Quick_Learner Posted February 16, 2003 Author Posted February 16, 2003 i thought there was some sort of connection through the bodywork at the front? is this not the case then? guess if im wrong this is something i can do now? (i also thought i ought to wait in case i need to twist the front aeroquips when they hit the front arch supports?? - cycle type) should i make every endeavour to get the car running before bodywork starts then?? my ignition is Omex with carbs. ta. Quote
zvezdochka Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 Timing of fitting of front brake pipe flexis depends on whether battery tray is in nose, if it is then you can't use the nearside brake pipe bracket on the chassis and have to mount through bodywork or make an alternative bracket. (there have been some threads on this). Other body work related items are heater, screen and wipers (if you are fitting these). Heater means you can't complete cooling system, but could bypass if you wanted. You could temporarily fix fuel filler cap to control vapour risk if you wanted to run engine by lashing up electrics, although this depends on your view on safety etc. In this case you would have to fit exhaust and then remove before putting body tub on. I am at a similar stage and have fitted body, and will protect with masking tape, cloths and bits of bubble wrap where I'm working. HTH Rick Quote
Andrew Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 According to the manual I used, it says to use the brackets to support the flexible brake pipes, only if you're fitting swept wings. I queried this with the factory and was told to use the brackets for both types of wing. My ignition was a lot easier to "cobble", being attached to a Pinto engine! Quote
steppenwolf Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 According to the manual I used, it says to use the brackets to support the flexible brake pipes, only if you're fitting swept wings. I queried this with the factory and was told to use the brackets for both types of wing. Its amazing isn't it ... I have cycle wings and was specifically told NOT to use chassis brackets but to exit through the bodywork. I do, however, have the front battery try which does indeed negate fitting to the chassis bracket on the nearside anyway. Quote
sedsy Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 I drove my car up and down my grove before any bodywork was fitted, to check all mechanics etc. Quote
Blatman Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 I've never understood why anyone with non ZEi bodywork would want to attach *any* brake lines to a flexible plastic body............ Quote
Quick_Learner Posted February 17, 2003 Author Posted February 17, 2003 thought as much - i think the next best thing is to make a temporary frame and mounting board and position it exactly where the scuttle will be and mount the heater and expansion tank there. thanks for the advice on other potential problems guys. QL wot no sumps out there? Quote
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