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Short Gearbox lever


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Posted

My 1992 SEI was a 4sp when 2nd and third went so I had a replacement std 5 sp box fitted (not that mechanically skilled myself..). But, the gear lever comes up under the instrument panel and is only a couple of inches long. Sometimes, it is a stretch to reach it. Can an extension be fitted or a replacement lever that is bent and longer.? Any ideas..?

Thanks in anticipation.. :p

Posted

Can you confirm if this is a wide bodied car or not, 'cos it makes a difference..........

Posted

There are two solutions.

A slightly longer, slightly bent lever, as per the build manual, or, it is possible to fit the Westfield gear extension kit, but you need to move a chassis rail in the tunnel. I know at least two cars that have done this (m will be having it done soon), with apparently no problems at all.

For a nice neat solution, I (obviously) favour the Westfield gear extension kit, rather than a bent lever.

Posted

Many thanks for the reply. If I got a replacement stick (thinking of the bent one as I don't have the skills to move chassis mambers around) is it easy to fit..? I have a mate who has some mechanical skills...

It is re-assuring to know someone like you is around and happy to offer experienced and enthusiastic help.

Steve Jones

Posted

Fitting a new lever is easy, just make sure the 'box is in neutral before you take the old lever out...........

Bear in mind that when you bend the old lever, the knob (oooeeerrr) doesn't move in that nice fore and aft motion we all know and love. It'll be more of an up and down motion (fnarr), and not necessarilly how you imagine it to be. Fitting a quick shift lever can be problematic as the decreased leverage, added to a short stick, can make the gearchange quite notchy, and sometimes downright difficult. If the lever ends up being really short, I'd reccommend that a standard lever be used.

Moving a chassis rail isn't hard, but you do need to be able to weld, or know someone who can weld, and who is handy with a hacksaw/dremel/angle grinder......

Posted

If your friend has a welder you could try building a sigmoidal/swan neck type of lever.  That way the height remains low, you get better leverage because of the length of the lever, and you still retain something close to the back/forward movement in shifting.

Posted

That's what I though too, but it wasn't good (for me). Bend up a paper clip, simulate gearlever movement (you can even make brrrm brrrrm noises if it'll help. It'll get your workmates talking, if nothing else.......), and see what I mean............

Posted
It is re-assuring to know someone like you is around and happy to offer experienced and enthusiastic help

:devil:  :devil:  :D  :)  ;)  :p

Where do I start  :devil:  :D  ;)

Posted
:arse:  :0  :p  :D
Posted

I've built a couple, the latter one seems to work OK.  I did use 16mm 16 gauge mild steel tubing rather than a paperclip.  I figured it would be stiffer.  I did make some (non brrm) noises though when I picked it up before it'd cooled properly.

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