REAL WOOD FLOORING - HELP!!!

[brindle]

Hi - the Wife treated me to several packs of wood flooirng and lots of glue and Sunday to enjoy myself..

Anyway, after looking at this stuff, its 22mm thick - has anyone laid this stuff - how on earth do you get it to meet up to the flooring in the other rooms which is no where near as thick as this - I dont want to finish the job off with black and yellow hazard tape so any advice is greatly appreciated.

Oh - also - what did you use for underlay - adding felt will give it another 5mm!!!

[carpetstu]

Is the sub floor wood or concrete?

If concrete have you done a damp test?

What glue has she been sold?

The door way or finish point requires a reducer strip.

Dependent on the room size will depend on the expansion gap you need to leave around the edge.

Are you removing skirting boards or using Scotia?

All door ways will require undercutting to the frames and architrave to allow the flooring under them.

You shouldn't need underlay for solid floor as its not fitted as a floated system. Its normally invisi nailed to wood sub floor or bonded to concrete.

Good luck with it it can be a complete biatch to fit.

You are more than welcome to call me at the shop. I am here until 5pm Today. 01785 252707

Edit to add ... Is it solid wood or engineered.

[SteveD]

carbon flooring is the way forward

[carpetstu]

carbon flooring is the way forward

 

[Mid life crisis]

I laid some of a similar wood floor in the dining room over Christmas. The flooring came from B & Q and was the same thickness as yours.

I laid it over the existing floorboards having gone around the room banging in nails to make sure everything was solid!

B & Q sell rolls of what I can only describe as foam underlay, one side of which is coated with a contact adhesive. Basically you lay the foam on the floor "sticky side up" then peel back the protective film, then place the boards onto the adhesive surface. Be careful you only get one go as the adhesive sticks immediately.

Do read the instructions carefully as fitting the boards does involve the use of a separate plastic sheet, don't chuck it out with the packaging as I did! and then have to rescue it from the bin.

Best of luck!

Oh just to mention, my dining room took me 3 days!!!!

[cliveboy8]

With all your recent work on the Westfield I thought you were going to put a wooden floor in it when I read the title!

[brindle]

With all your recent work on the Westfield I thought you were going to put a wooden floor in it when I read the title!

Now there's a thought...........

[brindle]

Is the sub floor wood or concrete?

If concrete have you done a damp test?

What glue has she been sold?

The door way or finish point requires a reducer strip.

Dependent on the room size will depend on the expansion gap you need to leave around the edge.

Are you removing skirting boards or using Scotia?

All door ways will require undercutting to the frames and architrave to allow the flooring under them.

You shouldn't need underlay for solid floor as its not fitted as a floated system. Its normally invisi nailed to wood sub floor or bonded to concrete.

Good luck with it it can be a complete biatch to fit.

You are more than welcome to call me at the shop. I am here until 5pm Today. 01785 252707

Edit to add ... Is it solid wood or engineered.

Thanks Stu,  We were planning to be back in the Motherland of sunny Cheslyn Hay on Sunday, but as we all have come down with a bug, were not going to.  I might pop in and see you next time I'm up.  The other stuff can go back if it needs to.

[Bananaman]

Would leave the wood to 'breath' and balence with the moisture levels in the house for a couple of weeks before laying as it will expand. When we had some laid it moved aabout 10cm over 4m run! It was laaid over some insulating underlay (foil backed). As for butting upto other surfaces i think you can get strips for this

[carpetstu]

You are more than welcome when ever mate, kettle is always on.