tex Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 another way of making the inside feel nicer is to plaster board it out leaving an air gap to the wall.. Roof an all.. Fit better lights will defo help.. Those little 12v ones are great.. 25 in mine.. Has a nice feel about it... Could also put a floor covering down.. Carpet tiles are good.. Cheap and washable.. The square type ones. Quote
carpetstu Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Could also put a floor covering down.. Carpet tiles are good.. Cheap and washable.. The square type ones. Do you want a quote? Quote
tex Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 lol - i did / was gonna put some down in my garage - loose - then you could leave areas carpet free where it would be impractical Quote
][\/][ajor Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 Been outside covering up the high level vents with some UPVC facia board and filled the low level vents with some kingspan insulation so missed the replies. Yeah DPC 1.5 brick courses up from the floor but can't tell if there is a membrane on the floor. Reading some of your comments I'm wondering if I'm going the right way. I think I'm going to plasterboard and insulate the roof, screed the floor and paint it then see how it goes from there. And thanks for the offer of a quote, but I'll do it myself as it keeps me out of the way of the missus. Quote
tex Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 [\/][ajor']Been outside covering up the high level vents with some UPVC facia board and filled the low level vents with some kingspan insulation so missed the replies. Yeah DPC 1.5 brick courses up from the floor but can't tell if there is a membrane on the floor. Reading some of your comments I'm wondering if I'm going the right way. I think I'm going to plasterboard and insulate the roof, screed the floor and paint it then see how it goes from there. And thanks for the offer of a quote, but I'll do it myself as it keeps me out of the way of the missus. the plasterboard will make it feel a lot warmer as long as it doesnt get wet walls or leaks.. make sure they sit on 1/2 inch lats giving a gap to the bricks Quote
][\/][ajor Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 [/make sure they sit on 1/2 inch lats giving a gap to the bricks] Why the need for the 1/2 inch lats? Quote
cleowuss Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Hi Steve The 1/2 inch gap is to stop the damp I think Richard P.S. I've bben called worse Quote
Lurksalot Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 What is the end aim of your work to the garage, is it to be able to provide a bit of heat while you work out there , or is it to keep the car warm Quote
Mark (smokey mow) Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Hi Steve The 1/2 inch gap is to stop the damp I think Richard P.S. I've bben called worse Sort of correct. Bricks/blocks etc are actually porous which is why walls are normally built with cavities. without the batten cavity you will get a moisture transfer through the wall to the inside and have damp walls. I would also recommend installing a breather membrane between the battens and the wall and its worth thinking about using a moisture resistant plasterboard if the garage is particularly damp. Quote
tex Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 yes thats what i meant.. The gap between the warmed up boards and cold brick wall will help to keep the boards warm.. Its also good to add some old curtains to cover the doors up on the garage.. I had some up on my old one.. Hung right down on to the floor.. Stops draughts.. You can also buy polystyrene sheet from likes of wickes and put that on the back of the doors.. Thicker the better.. Curtains work very very well.. Its hard insulating doors.. Also the floor under the door could benefit from a bar of timber just high enough to butt the door up against when closed but enough to keep the draughts out.. Quote
Chris Elworthy Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Mmmmmm, which is better? A heated Garage or a dehumidifier.......... There's only one way to find out; FIIIIIIIIIGGGGGGHHHHHHHT Quote
tex Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 dehumidifier is only good if big draughts are eliminated Quote
][\/][ajor Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 I can't believe how much advice I'm getting about this topic!! Thanks again to all. As for the reason for the works, I had a Ducati which I used to keep in the garage and some parts on it started to rust. I never took it out in the wet so I've come to the conclusion that the garage was at fault. I don't want the same to happen to the Westfield. Quote
Blatman Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Dehumidifier is only going to work if the garage is all but hermetically sealed. If air (and therefore moisture) can get in *anywhere*, then all the dehumidifier is doing is dragging in moisture from outside. Answer Lurksalots question first before deciding what to do, and then, think about how much stuff on a Westfield actually rusts I've kept mine in an ordinary lock-up, no heat, no light, draughts etc etc, for 10 years. No rust yet. The race car lived outside under a cover for nearly 6 years. Again, no rust, although I do take care after a wet blat with either, treating the bolts and ball joints, wishbones and rose joints to a coat of WD40. Takes about 5 mins once you're in to a routine and there's not really much else to worry about. Panels are ally or carbon, chassis is powdercoated, seats are vinyl, body is plastic (obviously)... Quote
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