My body!

[Liam]

I am fast approaching the dreaded time when the SEiW body must be fitted (pause for appreciation from the crowd) and I am a bit nervous about dimensions. Stupid question no.1 - why are the dimensions, chassis to scuttle different each side.

Stupid Question no.2 - where exactly do you measure from. There are welds along the top edge at the corner of the rear chassis rail as well as the cockpit rear panel pop-rivetted to it which make accuracy difficult yet the measurements are very precise and I keep hearing dire warnings about getting them wrong.

Also, having offered up the scuttle, there is a gap between it's front edge and the pedal box cover panels. Has the guy who started the build mounted the pedal box wrongly (please say no!

[Blatman]

Steppenwolfs web site will have all the info you need.

[Mike H]

For my first build I remember the measurements being different each side (according to modular build manual). I presumed it was to put some tension in the tub to make it a bit firmer.

I would just measure the best you can from the actual chassis rail (ie not the front of the aluminium sheet) and go for it.

I have a new manual however for the SE/SEi starter kit (for my next project ) and I'm sure the measurements are the same    each side.  I'l' try to remember to check tonight.

Can't help about the gap to the pedals I'm afraid as my first car had the other type of scuttle.

good luck

Mike

[rkenyon]

I also can't help with the scuttle, but I would suggest that you just put the rear wheels on, then offer the bodywork up and just align it using the wheels as a reference point.

This will give a the perfect result, as the only reference point on these cars to see if the body is on straight is if the wheels are centralised in the arches.

Where in the country are you?

I'm sure someone local would be pleased to come over and offer some advice/ take the pi55/drink your beer.

[steppenwolf]

Liam,

1.  Be aware that this stipulation only applies if you have fixed rear wheel arches. If you have detachable rear wheel arches, the dimensions will be the same on both sides. I have never got to the bottom of this 5mm discrepancy but can only assume that it is to correct an imperfection in the original moulding. If you do have fixed wheel arches, you MUST follow this instruction as failing to do so will have repercussions throughout the build, even down to the fitting of the hood!

2. The 400mm measurement from the front of the rear boot aperture to the chassis rail is also important as this, of course, determines the position of the whole of the body and will have ramifications throughout the build - for example, it effects the steering wheel to fascia distance; depending on the style of your scuttle ( there are several styles! ) it will affect whether the front apron of the scuttle overhangs the firewall; it will affect the position of the boot box over the seat belt mountings; it will effect the overhang of the boot box into the cockpit and so on. This measurement is common to both fixed and detachable rear arch types.

The measurement must be made as best you can from the front of the top chassis rail (I used a retractable steel rule and put the right angle bend at the end of the ruler along the join of the chassis rail and the aluminium panel riveted to it and measured down to the bottom of the scuttle with this) and within a millimetre or two will be close enough.

Not knowing what version of the scuttle you have, I am unable to comment on this gap other than to state the obvious which is that there should not be a gap in this location!

There is also an article on my web site as mentioned by Blatman that details the lining up of the body across the wheels. Get this wrong and the car will drive OK but look terrible from the rear!!

Getting the Body Square at the Rear

When aligning the panels, use 50mm wide masking tape everywhere with datum points marked on it so that you always re-align the panels correctly before the final fixing - see attached photo for an example (this is the offside junction of the scuttle, body tub and bonnet).

On this subject, in module 5, ignore the cut out on diagram 9 (fixed arch) and diagram 15 (detachable arch) as it no longer applies to either type!

Good luck!

[Mark Stanton]

Yep - if you have one of the older fixed arch body moulds - there are some imperfections - nothing to onerous or distracting to the untrained eye    

The nosecone (non-ducted) may need some persuading to a straighter line, scuttle to bonnet gaps vary a tad - and hence the differing dimensions on either side. the wheel arches and rear fitment will take some patience as Stepps guidelines.      

Take your time, temporarily fix and mark up with tape and the result should be fine      

[moomin]

Hi.

I'm literally just in from the garage having just put the first rivets in my main body section - quite a daunting task.  I've spent the last week measuring, shuffling, re-measuring, thinking, repeat ad infinitum.

There are lots of dependancies as people have said. A few off the top of my head tips:

- get all the bits of bodywork on the car before you fix anything down, and check all the gaps and alignment

- the 400mm thing is important but there is up to say 5mm allowance in that - if you think about it a small movement at the rear equates to a bigger movement up front, so put the headlights on the car and try to get the gap between each headlight and the nosecone equal.

- if you have a roof and windscreen and boot box (I don't) then you need to be a little more careful of the 400 and 915 measurements.  similarly if you have a bolt-in roll bar (again, I don't) you're life is somewhat easier (than my welded in one).

- be careful of measuring the equality of the rear using the wheels. I tried this but the suspension is not yet setup so it was quite distracting. A better bet is to take a a steel rule or long piece of wood - shove one end against the chassis somewhere reliable which can be duplicated on both sides (outside chassis edge or diff carrir) then use spirit level to drop squarely down from the edge of the arch and compare the measurement on both sides.

- most importantly, take your time, try out various shuffles and measurements, and decide what is optimum. At the end of the day it's a big floppy bit of plastic which is hand made out of a mould, so it is never going to be 100% perfect.

Cor, waffle-tastic.  If you want any more waffle just drop me a line.  Also some waffle and pictures available on my website www.megabird.co.uk.

Moomin.

[Martin Keene]

Hi Liam

Nice to see progress is being made, how did you cure the starter motor problem?

Martin

[Liam]

Excellent stuff! Thanks all - I am reassured - nettles must be grasped!!!

Martin, I got a starter from Tiger that fits a treat. The throw is very slightly shorter than the original but I am confident that will not matter.  

[moomin]

Hi all,

After having fixed the top of the rear of my bodywork, I had a quick look at fixing the underside of the rear.  This looks particularly tricky and is going to require a brave shove to get it something like near the blocks it has to rivet into.

Any top tips for doing this?  With the fuel tank in position there isn't really anywhere to get good grip with a G-clamp, and be able to wind the bodywork up and hold it whilst drilling and rivetting.

Any clues?

Moom.

[steppenwolf]

Moomin,

You will require the assistance of someone you trust!

Tools required,

2 X 'G' clamps

2 X offcuts of 2 X 1 wood

You hold underneath of rear apron and pull up hard - it will creak like mad, ignore the creaking of the car body and the pain in your lower back (wear ear defenders if you are sensitive to this sort of thing! and when your assistant confirms that the apron is touching the mounting tube underneath, stand there still while he/she clamps the apron to the mounting tube with the piece of wood acting as a protective spacer. Do this to both sides.

Then, drill the first hole and insert and pull the first rivet. Repeat for the other side, remove the clamps and drill and rivet twice more on each side.

I know it looks like you can't get a clamp in there but YOU CAN!

[westfield102]

I was told reson for the off-set side to side was because of the first mock-up being made from clay so it was right to eye, none of the cad stuff of today.

[moomin]

>You will require the assistance of someone you trust!

Ah well that's where I'm set to go wrong then - how can I trust my housemate when he says things like (and I quote): "I see the oil has it's own radiator... is that anything to do with an oil cooler?"

       

[Martin Keene]

I got a starter from Tiger that fits a treat. The throw is very slightly shorter than the original but I am confident that will not matter.  

Excellent News Liam. I thought they'd have to be a starter around somewhere to fit that sump.

Has the Sierra injection neen consigned to bin yet?  

[Liam]

Fuel injection kit gathering dust and bits of my skin - once more and it goes in the bin! (I just have an aversion to throwing things away - anyone want 4 5.5 x 13 Compomotive cross spokes needing serious refurbishment Astra/Golf(?)fit)