Anthony French Posted May 9, 2009 Posted May 9, 2009 Hello all, I recently bought a Westfield SEW with a 2.0l pinto. I am currently working through servicing the entire car and have noticed a couple of issues. I am looking for any advice that can be offered to a new Westfield owner. 1. I have noticed that the throttle cable seems very long, it loops round in the foot well and takes a long route around the engine bay, I think it’s restricting the pedal action and I'd like to re-configure it. Can anyone advise of the best way to set up a throttle cable on a pinto, where to get the bits etc? Any installation pics showing a good install would be perfect. 2. The back of one of the Weber DCOE 40 Carbs is wet on the back. (the left one when facing the intakes). So the fluid is on the face of the carb directly opposite to the head / block, it looks like fuel so I am presuming it’s a seal / gasket issue. It’s been dripping onto the oil filter a bit. Is this common and can anyone advise on how I could fix it? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks and Regards, Anthony, Quote
perksy Posted May 9, 2009 Posted May 9, 2009 Welcome Pictures speak louder than words sometimes Couple of photo's showing the carb's and what type of Carb linkage you currently have will help us advise As for the Fuel leak, it could be the Top cover gasket but again a photo would help a Diagram showing the parts/Gaskets on a 40 DCOE can be found HERE Quote
Anthony French Posted May 9, 2009 Author Posted May 9, 2009 Thanks very much for the response. I will get some pics sorted and post them in my next reply. Quote
kermit The Frog Posted May 10, 2009 Posted May 10, 2009 Hi, I had exactly the same issues with my Pinto Westie when I brought it. Turned out that the fuel was leaking from the fuel line and dripping onto the carb, so may be worth checking all the connections before replacing gaskets? My throttle cable also dose this, so am interested to here peoples comments… Ryan Quote
Grizzlee Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 WRT the leaking DCOE, if you have the cold start mechanism (choke) installed on the back of the carb and a choke cable fitted you may want to disconnect the cable. You will not need the choke to start the car, and sometimes the cable can be tight enough so that it holds the pistons inside the carb just off their seat, and the body of the mechanism is open to atmosphere resulting in the leak when the engine is hot. This also causes rough running again when the engine is hot. Do you have this problem? I had the same problem with mine, I removed the cold start mechanism altogether and bought some blanking plates. Hope this helps Graham Quote
kermit The Frog Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 Anthony, is this what you’ve got? I did think mine had just been lashed in as a quick fix, but I assume its quite common then? I’d be interested to know/see an alternant path as well if anyones got a better install. Regards Ryan Quote
Anthony French Posted May 11, 2009 Author Posted May 11, 2009 Yes I do get some rought running when its warm, I also notice that it idles at around 1300rpm when wam . I am not sure if I have a cold start and choke fitted, can you tell from my pics below? They show My Carbs and my throttle cable setup. Comments from anyone would be much appreciated. It on the rolling road this saturday and would like to try and have it running perfect for the.Thanks very much. http://i263.photobucket.com/albums....cs1.jpg http://i263.photobucket.com/albums....cs2.jpg http://i263.photobucket.com/albums....cs3.jpg http://i263.photobucket.com/albums....cs6.jpg http://i263.photobucket.com/albums....cs7.jpg Ps. can anyone advise of the best way to upload pics direct to the post. I was not able to get this to work using photobucket. Thanks Quote
Grizzlee Posted May 12, 2009 Posted May 12, 2009 Looks like you do have the cold start mechanism fitted, but you don't have a choke cable connected. The cold start mech' is the arm with the spring on the back of the carb and the housing which the arm is fitted to has has an opening covered with a gauze. This is where my carbs were leaking from. The housing is held on by 2 4mm screws. You can get a blanking plate to replace the housing. Graham Quote
Nomexnomad Posted June 2, 2009 Posted June 2, 2009 It also looks like the number 3 or 4 exhaust manifold is leaking too! Engine bay setup looks ok, maybe a tad long, however my cable comes in lower and mounts to the rear of the throttle pedal, via a block. Quote
stu999 Posted June 2, 2009 Posted June 2, 2009 Anthony, is this what you’ve got? I did think mine had just been lashed in as a quick fix, but I assume its quite common then? I’d be interested to know/see an alternant path as well if anyones got a better install. Regards Ryan Kermit, thats your speedo cable, not your throttle cable... Antony, your pics... It would appear that you have a pedal box/set that is not of Westfield manufacture. Its a wonder that throttle works at all TBH! The routing and run at the pedal end is not very good at all. Also, there is *far* too much slop between the yoke and the pedal tube on your brake bias bar system - to the point where it could actually be dangerous. IMHO this wants sorting before your throttle pedal issue... Quote
perksy Posted June 5, 2009 Posted June 5, 2009 Also, there is *far* too much slop between the yoke and the pedal tube on your brake bias bar system - to the point where it could actually be dangerous. IMHO this wants sorting before your throttle pedal issue... Good Spot Mate Quote
kermit The Frog Posted June 6, 2009 Posted June 6, 2009 QUOTE Kermit, thats your speedo cable, not your throttle cable... Should put my brain in gear before I open my Quote
Anthony French Posted June 6, 2009 Author Posted June 6, 2009 Will sort the brake pedal issue, was not at all aware that this was not a common pedal box. Thanks very much for all the advice. A few more questions if its ok. 1. What would be the ideal routing for the throttle cable and which Westfield pedal box should I go for 2. Would it be better to have the top mounted Weber throttle linkage kit? 3. Any advice on how best to fix the exhaust manifold leak? Are there gaskets available? if so who from? Thanks very much, Anthony, Quote
V 8 Posted June 6, 2009 Posted June 6, 2009 Hi Stu, not wishing to be contrary, but the Flymo had just the same throttle set up and worked perfectly. Quote
stu999 Posted June 6, 2009 Posted June 6, 2009 Hi Stu, not wishing to be contrary, but the Flymo had just the same throttle set up and worked perfectly. Hi mate. The principle works (I had a similar system in my race car), but the cable run, angles, cable bend etc leaves a little to be desired... Anthony - You don't need to change the pedal box. However, you could improve things somewhat. If you try for a greater radius on the throttle cable, and ideally lower the out cable retainer so that it is more in line with the pedal, it will probably improve things immensely (rivnuts are your friend...). Can't make out the carb linkage properly, but from what I can see, it would appear to do the job. Exhaust manifold gaskets are available = your local motor factors should be able to help, as well as the usual suspects (e.g. Burton Power) Quote
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