chazpowerslide Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 I need some more mig gas Neil, it ran out as I finished modding the throttle pedal (your sump was next while the welder was out) I'm off Saturday afternoon so I'll get some then, the sump will be done Sunday afternoon if that's ok. I'll also weld in a skid plate/sheild for the drain plug as a bit of extra protection Sorry for the delay on this, my day off on Tuesday was at the end of a 7 day stint at work. Nikpro, is it worth adding a catch tank, does the axle breath this much?? I can't recall any oil coming out of the standard breather before the rebuild as the level never seemed to move (checked yearly) Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashBangWallop Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 QUOTE I'll also weld in a skid plate/sheild for the drain plug as a bit of extra protection You say that like I do it with alarming regularity. If I could pick it up on Saturday evening, that would be great. Unless the weather's naff. In which case Sunday is fine. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruffythefirst Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I've got some gas, and will be home friday afternoon if thats any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Anyway, back to the plot. I'm trying to do a few little jobs each day (the nitty gritty stuff that takes all the time) so the build can progress. The next job to be done was to fit the pedals/heel plate. Because I have added diagonals to the floors I didn't want the one in the drivers side foot well to interfere with my heels as I work the pedals. This effectively means that I have fitted the pedals 3/4" higher than normal as the diagonals are made 3/4" x 3/4" 16SWG (1.6mm) ERW tube. To get over the issue I welded in a cross member and mounting lugs to mount a heel plate in the foot well. This is a picture of the foot well, pedal mounts, cross member and mounting lugs. I have inserted and pulled up ally rivnuts in the lugs. Another shot of the lugs with rivnuts fitted I then made up an ally plate to fit under the pedals on top of the lugs and cross member. I thought chequer plate (the small version) would look good. The plate has been drilled and secured to the lugs/cross member with 6mm dome headed stainless set screws. The pedals and mounts were supplied by Westfield as a kit for about £90 + vat, this represents good value if you are prepared to weld the lot in yourself. I did not go for the bias setup as I felt it unnecessary for road use. I have a hydraulic adjustable limiter valve in the rear brake line to assist with brake balance. These are the pedals/bearings. At this stage the throttle pedal is unmodified. I like to have my pedals set so the throttle pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal when moderate pressure is being applied to the brake, this helps with heel and toe manoeuvres on the pedals. I found that when I converted Mark Jackson's narrow chassis to floor mount pedals the way the factory throttle pedal is set up you can't position the pedal in any other position than fully forward against the stop as it flops forward to that position if you leave any slack in the cable. This is because as standard there is nothing preventing the pedal from slipping back along the cable. There was also the issue if the possibility of stones being trapped under lower part of the pedal jamming open the throttle I looked at the alternatives and came to the conclusion that I needed to modify the throttle pedal and cable attachment to it. From the pic of the pedals you can see the throttle pedal has two prongs at the bottom of which a small round steel bar slides into opposing holes and the cable slides through a hole drilled into the bar. I have cut off the two prongs and welded on a single prong. The cable then is attached via a 6mm clevis. Modded throttle pedal With clevis fitted. The nipple was cut off the cable and the cable soft soldered into a short 6mm bolt with a 2.5mm hole drilled through it's centre. For the soldering I use a small gas torch, plumbers flux and flux-less solder. The cable is passed into the bolt (the main bore of the hole is 2.5mm, the last 3mm or so is 4mm to allow the end of the cable to be spread out and sit in a "plug" of solder) and soldered on. The cable was loosely held in the vice with the bolt dangling down, the solder was then applied until it ran out the bottom. This is the cable with the bolt soldered on The cable is then screwed into the clevis. And passed through the cable guide in the foot well bulkhead. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 you were right about the chequer plate ...looks good mental note: must remember to invite myself around for a looky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam-Kit car dreams Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I have got chequer plate in my footwell, looks good doesnt it !! Is it sitting above the floor? Doesit flex when youhave your feet on itor is it supported in the middle also? I did sell a few sets on Ebay too until one bloke sent a set back as they didnt fit, i gave up after that due to too many variables in sizes with different trim parts fitted. Great thread by the way, good to see a car going together in picture form, glad i didnt have to fit all the panels, wiring, pipes,pedals etc. Looks very time consuming but very satisfying at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Hi Sam, the plate is supported by the lugs, the diagonal and the front and mid cross member, it does not flex as it's got plenty of support. The cable outer is then slipped on from the engine bay side like so. The clevis is then attached to the bottom of the pedal and the whole lot finished off to look like this. Another view I'm pretty pleased with the result as it goes but I think I'll be needing to make up a few spare cables just in case as it's not now a case of fitting a standard cable. I will now be able to set the throttle pedal height as the cable is positively attached to the pedal and I think there is less chance of getting a stone trapped under the pedal as well. I have also tidied up the sealer a bit as it looked a bit scruffy in the pics, the camera shows all.............. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 you need some sparco boy racer bling pedal covers on there ... no boy racers car is complete without em looking good - BRUM BRUM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Me thinks I'm being Cyber-stalked by Cleggy................................................ There aint a lot of room down there Cleggy, I may not be able to fit in my feet and bling pedal covers..... Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 good thread m8 ... not stalking you honest I shall post no more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam-Kit car dreams Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Hi Sam, the plate is supported by the lugs, the diagonal and the front and mid cross member, it does not flex as it's got plenty of support. Hi Chaz, Didnt look at the pic with the diagonal cross member supporting the plate !! Thought it was the same as mine, which doesnt have a diagonal to support the plate, mine is flat on the floor, actually in the footwell. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Post as much as you like Cleggy, I was only micky taking, no offence intended. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 lol I know ... get back in your garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick PC Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 This is one of the best threads for a long time and surely should be turned into a faq to show what can be done by rebuilding a car with care and imagination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 Thanks for the positive comments Nick, it makes it all the more worthwhile posting it all up if folk get some value from it. I end up taking a lot of piccies uploading them to photobucket and then try catching up on the thread on my work breaks which seems to be working out ok at the moment. After the pedals I got onto fitting the rear components on the fuel system. One of the main issues I had was weather or not to run with a low pressure lift pump feeding an external (to the fuel tank) swirl pot. I had been suffering fuel surge issues with the standard Westfield injection fuel tank as the swirl pot is small /shallow as opposed to small/deep. Surge would occur on left hand bends when I had about 1/4 of a tank of fuel left leading to the motor coughing and spluttering and a loss of power. After consulting the boardroom gurus I made the decision to have the tank modded to simplify the wiring/plumbing of the injection pump and feed/return lines at the back of the car. These are the main components of the fuel system (minus the flexi pipes and throttle bodies) The tank features an injection pump pre-filter and you can see the massive swirl pot that Pro Alloy have added in place of the standard one I made up a mounting panel that rivets to the axle side of the rear bulkhead, the pre-injector filter will mount up on this. The holes for the filter mounts are marked out and drilled and then the mounts are riveted onto the plate And the plate is riveted to the rear bulkhead and the filter clipped in place. Here are some piccies of the modified fuel tank, along with the swirl pot mods Pro Alloy also welded in a boss on top of the tank for the sender to bolt directly into (much neater then the standard leaky setup) And as it will sit (almost) in the car. Pro alloy have done a Stirling job with this as have Morleys (the powder coaters). The swirlpot is internally baffled with a restricted inlet and holds in excess of a litre of fuel. They retained the pre-injection pump filter and the feed outlet has been matched to the same size as the pump inlet to make fitting the pipe easier. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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