markcoopers Posted December 16, 2008 Posted December 16, 2008 Well thanks to the very keen spannering by our very own Scruffy (Hugh in the real world), i've got me car back together. The irony is that the one bit that caused all this grief (type 9 remote) had to be removed and is sat nicely on the bench. I did smile at that. Hugh i can not say thank you enough, i even have your radio as well. I recon on a bit of hammering to fix the oil filter issues, and aparently we have found one at 55mm deep.....so we shall see, a job for the weekend i think. Again Thank you Hugh. [que applause] Quote
scruffythefirst Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Thats your radio Had we not had the oil filter issue (and lost 3 hours to it), I reckon I'd have got it running. I'm not sure what is causing the issues with the oil filter, does chaz know if the filter used to sit under the column or beside it? The engine has to be pretty much in the same place as it was as the exhaust is spot on, so it has to be a difference in filter or pump housing. For some strange reason that car is considerably more fiddly to wok on than the dax and the dax has 2 water radiators, and intercooler, remote oil cooler, cone air filter, masses of piping and a turbo stuffed under the bonnet. I was going to drop you an email with whats left, but might as well post it here. Exhaust collector bolts - tighten Prop/ diff bolts tighten Tighten all 6 gearbox mount bolts. Bolt missing from passenger engine mount Fit carbs and air filter. Check electrical connections Fit hoses to rad Breather pipes need connecting Fibre washer for filler bolt on gearbox# Coolant, engine oil., gearbox oil Connect battery earth Quote
chazpowerslide Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Well done Hugh, mine next................... When you bolt the remote back on you will not need to space underneath it with washers as I've set it up without. You'll need a spring washer under the three seccuring bolt heads. I've pre-adjusted remote it's self so you wont need to fiddle with it, just bolt it on and it should work ok. Did you manage to cross-ref the Wix filter number I gave you? Chaz. Quote
Liam Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Exhaust collector bolts - tighten Prop/ diff bolts tighten This is not a good thing to say to Mark. He tends to use the spanner with the 12 foot handle ...but well done. Where is the back of the queue Quote
scruffythefirst Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 You can go to the front of the queue Liam if your sandblaster works and you can get a 13" wheel in it Quote
Martin Keene Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Good work Scruff! I had Mark's old coil pack bracket, complete with his pressure regulator mounting holes, with me on Sunday. Didn't think to give it to you... Quote
samcooke Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Oi. No queue jumping. Scruffy is supercharging my bus next* * he is if he wants to keep the Dax in my garage for any length of time. Quote
SparkyB Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Seems like the best option for all is for Scruffy to set up shop in Sams garage... then the queue can form up nice and neatly on the drive Quote
markcoopers Posted December 17, 2008 Author Posted December 17, 2008 I did some extensive filter reserch last night and about 50-55mm seams possible with a Fram 2874. or the WIX Wl7064. Others include: Fram Ph2830 Fram Ph 2825A loclhead LH1051 Coopers Z87 Halfords 266 Crossland 659 Elf 298 Mahl ce11 And a unipart one that i forget the name of. Quote
markcoopers Posted December 17, 2008 Author Posted December 17, 2008 I also seam to now own a new radio CD player, as well. I had a good look into the inlet ports last night, the porting/smoothing job looks fantastic. I'll have a crack at it this weekend and see what we can do with the various bits to finish it. On the bolt tightening front, any ideas of the EERRR that i need to set the tourque wrench too, is is "tight" and "chuffing tight" OK. I'm thinking the bellhousing bolts and prop ones here. I saw the missing mount bolt, I was going to give it a quick spanner over so that i new i hadn't missed any. Fider washer, do you think i could do this with some cardboard? or a rubber O ring? Again Thanks mate, really apreachiate it. Sparky, best get the dixis over here as we will ahve it done soon. Chaz, i hear you on the extension, just 3 bolts, i'll be fine. Even got some new anti rattle bits somewhere......and i painted it. Quote
ChrisF Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Top man Hugh...this is why the WSCC is such a fab club If Mark offers you his grass cutting services in return....well you know what to say Quote
scruffythefirst Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 The bellhousing to engine bolts should all be FT. Assuming I didn't miss one. The fibre washer would be best as some sort of thick robust item, it just needs to seal on top of the nut to the underside of the bolt head as its not a machined surface. I was thinking of setting up a business on a part time basis and was wondering about premises. What are your rates like sam? Quote
Martin Keene Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 Halfords 266 Careful with that one. I read that on here as well, and it is for a post 84 Renault of some description. Renault change from 3/4" UNF to M20 around 84. So whilst the M20 might appear to fit fine when it is tighten up, it will be like a wizards's sleeve up until then and is at risk off falling off. Quote
samcooke Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 QUOTE What are your rates like sam? Bluddy dear considering £270 worth of floor paint only just did one coat Quote
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