RobK Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Done a search but not found anything, has anyone heard of or used Jenoseel rust treatment? It has a red oxide primer built in. We are looking to prepare and treat our chassis prior to coating it with a fibre glass flake epoxy resin. Any thoughts appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perksy Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Haven't used that but Have used Por 15 Products in the past with very good results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Seconded on the POR15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 POR15 for me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobK Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 Thanks for the advice. We have removed what was left of the powder coating and a fair amount of rust This is what we are left with. Looking to apply an epoxy resin straight onto the clean chassis. To avoid the rust cure preventing our resin for adhering we decided to remove everything down to bare metal. Only concern is the weight the resin will add, so its getting two thin coats. The resin we are using is a glass flake epoxy coating that i use for work to coat water tanks and industrial water systems. Confident it will be good, but we can always redo everything next winter Any thoughts or advice appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perksy Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 The resin we are using is a glass flake epoxy coating that i use for work to coat water tanks and industrial water systems. Confident it will be good, but we can always redo everything next winter Any thoughts or advice appreciated Be Interested to know what it's called Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobK Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 This is the stuff! . Comes in various coating that self level to certain thicknesses dependent on the size of the glass flake used. Seen this stuff last 10 years + on rusty steel water tanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perksy Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Looks good stuff When using it in the past how have you found that it Resists 'Chipping' Now i've seen it i think i've seen this used in the past on some b****y big water storage tanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arm Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Now you have come this far get it sandblasted, cleaned, phosphated (or acid etched) and powdercoated. That it the normal way to coat a steel frame chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobK Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 When using it in the past how have you found that it Resists 'Chipping' I would think it is more resistant to chipping than any other coating i have seen The chassis at present has had more preperation than most surfaces its used on, it has quite a few coatings in "normal" use. The primer coat is 125 micron and all the others are 250 micron. Once activated its unusable in 30 mins so we need to activate it in small amounts, it will be much slower carefully coating a chassis than applying it to large surfaces. Now to choose a colour . Primer is dark grey , intermediate coat is white , stripe coat is yellow and top coat is light blue! Seems worth a go, has anyone on here used similar epoxy resins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoso Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Now you have come this far get it sandblasted, cleaned, phosphated (or acid etched) and powdercoated. That it the normal way to coat a steel frame chassis. Sandblasting + previous rivet holes = lots of sand in chassis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arm Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 QUOTE Sandblasting + previous rivet holes = lots of sand in chassis! Vacuum cleaner is your friend there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobK Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 Here is the resin coated chassis, this is coated with the 125 micron primer coat. Its grey but looks much lighter on the pic. Time will tell if this was a good move but i think it'll be fine! (hopefully!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruffythefirst Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Arm, can you give me more info on the phosphated (or acid etched) process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arm Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 A good powder coating shop should have a pretreatment plant. The phosphate or acid etch prepares the surface for the powder coat - gives it corrosion resistance and increases the adhesion. Correctly done it will last. Check with the powdercoating plant what they can do. If they just powdercoat bare steel then it wont be as good a one that treats the metal first. Phosphate is a zinc coating and acid etch is a chromate coating. Bot are used on modern cars to help get the 10 and 12 yr anti corrosion warranty. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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