waynem Posted October 21, 2007 Posted October 21, 2007 Now, not that I'm anywhere near taking my SVA, but a few queries.. 1. Would I be best to leave the spare wheel carrier etc off the rear of the car to have it as uncomplicated as possible, and fit it later ? Or do I need to have Number plate/plate light fitted for the SVA ? 2. Front ARB. This presents an extra prominence at the front where Mr SVA may have some issues.. Wish I has waited untill afterwards to fit it.... 3. Rear Carbon-look arch protectors. Dont NEED to fit these, but are there any SVA issues to consider ? I want to reduce the mountain of parts that need to be fitted, but want my SVA to be as painless as possible when I get there..... Wayne Quote
Andrew Posted October 21, 2007 Posted October 21, 2007 It's a long time since I sva'd, but I'd say leave the spare off, I've heard of certain wheel designs failing on sharp edges on the rear of the car.. Quote
Tigger Posted October 21, 2007 Posted October 21, 2007 Wayne, if you're fitting a number plate to your spare wheel carrier then you will have to fit it as the rear numberplate light will have to work. Remember to put rubber edging around the rear of the number plate surround though. Front ARB is not a problem if it's the inboard type, just remove the drop links to the bottom of the shocks and the "U" brackets they bolt into and fit them later. Push the torsion bar down so the attaching bevel links fold inside the bodywork and it should be ok - Mine was. The rear arch protectors shouldn't pose a problem as they are only about 1mm thick so you are ok with them. HTH Tigger Quote
Symbiotic_Caterpillar Posted October 22, 2007 Posted October 22, 2007 If you are fitting the spare wheel as well rather than just the carrier then remember to position the valve at the bottom so that it is covered by the number plate mount. Those valves are horribly sharp and could slice someone's leg open at 100 paces Some testers take issue with the centre cap too. Quote
kipford Posted October 24, 2007 Posted October 24, 2007 Worth checking the radius on the outer edge of the spare wheel rim as well, Soton checked mine but it passed with te remark that is the first one they had ever passed!!!!!!!! If in doubt get a cover fitted. Quote
waynem Posted October 24, 2007 Author Posted October 24, 2007 This had crossed my mind.... I am getting to the stage where I just want this thing on the b****y road, so £50 quid on a cover may give me some peace of mind.. ...still, 50 quid is a lot of beer tokens... Front ARB is not a problem if it's the inboard type, just remove the drop links to the bottom of the shocks and the "U" brackets they bolt into and fit them later. Push the torsion bar down so the attaching bevel links fold inside the bodywork and it should be ok - Mine was. .. and I think mine is not the inboard type, as shown in this photo.. You gotta laugh! Either that or Wayne M Quote
Symbiotic_Caterpillar Posted October 24, 2007 Posted October 24, 2007 Seeing that photo reminded me. I got pulled up on the sharpness of the edge of the nosecone around the suspension. I put rubber edging on and it was ok then. Also the ride height adjuster at the bottom of the springs was too sharp. Rubber tape wrapped around sorted that one out. Quote
tex Posted October 27, 2007 Posted October 27, 2007 i have heard of one guy on the RHOC board who got pulled up for rear spare tyre - no cover - had failed the radius test on the tyre tread blocks!!!! Quote
bhouse Posted October 27, 2007 Posted October 27, 2007 Covering anything that has a square edge is sound advice. However, the SVA testers need any rubber edge trim etc to be 'permanently mounted' rather than just pushed on. I used silicone sealant to accomplish this but came to regret it when I had the car painted, post SVA. Apparently silicone sealant is a real pain to remove, and the slightest remnant of silicone will prevent the paint adhering at that spot. I have no idea what can be used in its stead, but ask a paintshop to recommend a suitable adhesive before you start sticking! Brian Quote
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