chrisinoxford Posted October 17, 2007 Posted October 17, 2007 Gents. I just repalced my fiat switch 87 to 92 degrees because it seized shut and my fan was always on. I repaced it like for like but the damn fan wont cut in, so i replaced it again same thing, I have a voltage going to swith but even at 100 degress the thing wont close the circut. Water pump seems to be working, any ideas??? Chris Quote
Crazy Eddie Posted October 17, 2007 Posted October 17, 2007 I had this problem with mine and to be honest I have ended up putting an over ride fan switch that I can flick on if I get stuck in traffic / on starting grid (I wish). Quote
chrisinoxford Posted October 17, 2007 Author Posted October 17, 2007 thing is the first one worked!! Quote
Crazy Eddie Posted October 17, 2007 Posted October 17, 2007 Have you bridged the switch then to check fan working now? Quote
stu999 Posted October 17, 2007 Posted October 17, 2007 How do you know for sure that it was at 100degress? Check Eddies suggestion first. If OK, suspect that your gauge might just be inaccurate. Try popping the fan switch in some boiling water with a multimeter suitably connected to check operation Quote
Sam-Kit car dreams Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 If you are running an ECU i would check the wiring and the coolant temperature sensor aswell as the fan switch. If the coolant temp sensor is seeing an incorrect temperature/not working changing the fan switch wont make any difference no matter how many you try !! Quote
Bean Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 I had this problem with mine and to be honest I have ended up putting an over ride fan switch that I can flick on if I get stuck in traffic / on starting grid (I wish). Me too, mine cuts in automatically at 90 degrees but I also have an override switch. Just incase Quote
chrisinoxford Posted October 18, 2007 Author Posted October 18, 2007 there is a constant 12 volts feeding and no circut is made right up to 100degrees, this is point i switch engine off. i have bridged wires and fan cuts in so there is no other outside problem. The sender could be inacurate, but there is a serious problem if its out this much i.e 8 or 10 degrees. tried the boiling water and it works howevevr this just tells me it opens at boiling point which is not particulary good for engine...... uuuurrrrrr damn fiat switches chris. Quote
Blatman Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 QUOTE pressure switch, wont make circut I'm confused. Do you have a pressure switch issue or a pressure switch trying to do the job of a temp switch, or a duff temp switch, or... ? Quote
chrisinoxford Posted October 18, 2007 Author Posted October 18, 2007 Blateman damn i am going mad......... i headed it pressure switch sorry pal and anyone else i confused....... Radiator Temp Switch............... Quote
Peter M Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 My zetec setup temp on the move is about 90c rises to 100 whilst stationary then fan kicks in and brings it down to 90 again.My water temperature sensor is in thermostat housing and fan temperature sensor is in radiator which if i think is 97c temp so you may get a 100 on gauge before fan kicks in. Quote
stu999 Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 tried the boiling water and it works howevevr this just tells me it opens at boiling point which is not particulary good for engine...... uuuurrrrrr damn fiat switches If the switch has worked in a pan full of boiling water, there is a fighting chance it will work in the engine - and that it is *probably* an inaccuracy in the temp guage. Did you bung it into a pan of water that was already boiling? If so, try it again, but this time put the switch in the pan, and then bring it to the boil gently. In the absence of a thermometer, hopefully you will find that the switch will 'make' just as the water is starting to get lively - in other words, just before boiling point. If the cooling system is working correctly, even if the temp does get to 100deg, the coolant shouldnt boil. This is because the system should also be under pressure - which raises the boiling point of the coolant. Hence the reason why the rad cap should never be removed when hot - the loss of pressure can cause the coolant to boil instantly as internal pressure equalises with atmosphere - creating an explosion of steam, and ripping off flesh should a human happen to be in the way Quote
Blatman Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 QUOTE creating an explosion of steam, and ripping off flesh should a human happen to be in the way Well, that explains your "hair cut" at least Quote
RichB Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 Where is the fan switch mounted?? Is it possible it is in a small air pocket, so doesn't read the true coolant temperature? Quote
chrisinoxford Posted October 19, 2007 Author Posted October 19, 2007 stu nicely put, f**k it i will let it boil away hopefully engine wont explode firing the con rod out of the engine and impaling my spleen and killing me. chris Quote
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