V8 Bonnet

[Rory's Dad]

We've temporarily popped the tub, scuttle, bonnet and nose on the car and it all looks   unless you get too close    

The fit between the bonnet and the scuttle is the worst and it's not me, it's the fibreglass    

Q1) Do I get the dremmel out or just leave it as it is??

Q2) What do I do with the slots?? Fix some mesh??

Q3) The kit has come with some fairly crude over-centre clips with some black rubber covers for SVA.  Are the lockable ones much better or just an   to fit and un/lock ??  Has anyone done anything better - the less conspicuous the better??

Rory's Dad

(Whoops put this in the wrong section - please feel free to move it to newbies)

[pistonbroke]

I think the do's and dont's of bonnet attachment have been discussed previously and fairly comprehensively  

you could try a "search" ( as someone once said )

[Rory's Dad]

I did try a search  

... but couldn't find any answers on the fit between the bonnet and the scuttle, on whether it's a good idea to use mesh or not, or on inconspicuous latches ...    

Rory's Dad

[Mark Stanton]

Fitment is and always has been a PITA     you need plenty of patience and loads of tape to compromise and adjust the fitment to as best you can get TADTS      

Check out steppenwolfs (Steve Richards) website he has some excellent tips and advice on body fitment    

Yep bond in some mesh   check out your local B&Q or any other similar DIY store  

Overlock catches with rubber covers maybe not the best aesthetic result   Lockable ones perhaps look nicer and offer a better styling - no doubt they won't be as straight forward a fitment as your current system  

Good Luck - keep going it's worth it    

[lukeyboy]

Rory's old man......

Q1) Do I get the dremmel out or just leave it as it is??

A - Yep, your internal flange will need some bits fettling down where it will not sit flush with the scuttle

Q2) What do I do with the slots?? Fix some mesh??

A - Check the web, theres loads of chav power sites with different types and colours of mesh available. Some have gone with just chicken wire but thats up to them. Personally I think it should be included in the kit from Westfield. I cut the sections out with tin snips, bent the edges over the opening lip (about an inch overlap) then stuck them in place with a nice smooth bead of silicone. That way if the mesh gets damaged you can cut it of easily with a knife and replace it.

Q3) The kit has come with some fairly crude over-centre clips with some black rubber covers for SVA.  Are the lockable ones much better or just an   to fit and un/lock ??  Has anyone done anything better - the less conspicuous the better??

It's a bit of faffing around, but I made a template for lockable units, just measure, stick on, drill and dremel. I found the more fiddly bit fitting the retaining bit of metal that fastens to the tub.

Check out the bottom of this thread and look at "Duratec templates". Makes sure when printing you set the scale to 100% then check the dimensions against the build manual for accuracy and where to stick them.

http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin....release

[Rory's Dad]

Thanks Luke  

Any other thoughts??  Need I be worried about rain sitting in front of the bulkhead.  I've moved the header tank and the battery is up front too, just leaving the fuse boxes sitting on their little stilts    

I was wondering about trying to rig up a hidden bonnet catch system so it would just click into place but couldn't get further than a couple of door catches and a piece of string to open it    

Rory's Dad

[lukeyboy]

Yes, be worried about water sitting on the sill    you need to silicone seal all joints and gaps around this area (ensure you seal around the pedal access cover, but don't go to town with it as you will need to take it off at some point in the future - a thin bead will do around the edge). I found that water would sit in the battery tray and then drip through the rivets holding it in place, finally leaving a puddle in the passenger footwell. I drilled some little drain holes in the corners of the battery tray to stop it filling up.

If you've got the time and patience I filled all the heads in on my rivets in this area with glue to seal them up.

You might want to add some foam tape around the scuttle to bonnet joint, you tend to find that when the car is on idle it can rattle / vibrate in this area.

As for the header tank, does this need to be up high for bleeding / airlock purposes (above engine / heater pipes)?

[Rory's Dad]

As for the header tank, does this need to be up high for bleeding / airlock purposes (above engine / heater pipes)?

Mark at Westfield said it would be OK right up under the nose but would need to be detached and lifted for filling to eliminate airlocks.  I've got it secured to a rather elegant aluminium framework just in front of the engine.

As my first attempt at 'fabrication' I was rather pleased with the outcome.      Whether it will work or not is another matter    

Rory's Dad

[Stuart]

http://www.decorativemesh.co.uk/

[Rory's Dad]

Thanks guys    

Rory's Dad

[Darren B]

Hi Rory's Dad,

I cut extra holes in the rear area of my V8 bonnet for static/slow speed cooling and the water ingress issue has been dealt with by putting the fuse boxes into a 'Really useful' box from Staples.  Never had any ignition problems in the 3 years of running.

As far as mesh.  I have covered all the holes with some mesh from Halfords, mainly to keep prying fingers and stones out.

As far as bonnet retention.  I bought some bonnet pins from Demon Thieves.  They are Krontec Alloy Panel Holders and they work very well.  Depends on how much security you want.  I originally had the flush locks at the rear, with pins to locate the bonnet at the front.  I have swapped the rear locks for the alloy panel holders so that if access to the engine is required in a hurry during a sprint or race then you just pull the pin rather than needing the key to unlock it.  If the car is mainly for road use then I would have kept the locks on it to stop prying eyes.

[Rory's Dad]

Darren - How do the Krontec Alloy Panel Holders work?? What keeps the pin in??

Rory's Dad

[Darren B]

You get them with an alloy part that clamps either side of the panel, a pin and an alloy tube bit:

From the picture you can see that the smaller tube bit is the receptacle for the pin and I clamped it onto a piece of aluminium angle, pop rivented to the top of the footwell panel and with a bit of adjustment it all lines up nicley.

The pin is held in by small ball bearings at the tip and removal of the pin is just by pulling on the end ring, which allows the ball bearings to retract.  Fitting is by pushing the little plunger on the end (which you naturally do by pushing the pin in) which allows the pin to go all the way in to 'capture' the ball bearings beyond the end on the internal alloy tube.

Fitting was simple enough with just some minor adjustment to ensure the inner alloy piece is the right distance for the pin to locate correctly.  You can also get some nylon straps to fit through the pin ring so that it doesn't go missing whilst the bonnets off.

[Rory's Dad]

Perfect - thanks Darren