Duratec wet sump

[davebo]

Hi,

I'm slowly progessing with my 2.0l duratec WF build but I'm unsure what route to take with the sump.

If I'm not planning to race the car, can I use the standard sump ? or will it all end in disaster if I do this as either the engine will run dry of oil during hard acceleration/cornering, or the height of the sump will mean that i'll be at the risk of hitting any particularly tall speed bumps ?

I know Raceline and many others offer replacement shallow sumps, but these are £300-£400 which is a bit steep!

I guess I could get a fabricator such as Pro Comp or Bogg Bros to mod the Ford part. But if I do this, do I need to get baffles removed (asssuming there are baffles in the standard Ford part -  haven't removed it yet from engine) and reorient them for RWD, and what about strainer/pick up pipe ?

Just also now wondering if the engine takes the same quantity of oil when using a shallow sump...

Any help would be gratefully received!

Thanks

[Glen H]

Clicky here for a read.

My Raceline sump on a 2.0 Duratec takes 5L of oil

[davebo]

Thanks for the link. It seems likely i will need a sump of the Raceline variety or a mod to the standard one to provide something similar, especially as I'm using standard westfield factory engine mounts.

Anybody know of any cheaper options than Raceline ?

The links also remind me that there are lots of posts regarding keywaying the crank. What's the issue here ? - I appear to completely missing something!

[Glen H]

It is said by most of the engine builders that work with Duratecs that keywaying of the Crank isn'r really neccessary until you reach around 240+bhp.

If you were to remove the timing chain cover, you would see the Crank exiting the block - slid over the crank is a set of 2 sprockets (1 for the timing chain, the other for a short chain to the oil pump) the timing cover then goes on followed by the main crank Pulley with the timing castellations. The only thing stopping these sprockets and pulley spinning on the crank is the tension of the pulley bolt (they are not an interference fit) - should the chain sprockets 'slip' then your timing will be out and likely to bend some valves etc - if the pulley was to slip this would send false info to the ECU (as the timing castellations will be out) giving poor running etc.

You can get a heavy Duty ARP bolt from Burton Power that enable more torque to be put into tightning this bolt / pulley and giving some peace of mind - but its about £30 (ford one around £5) and you can only use it once or twice.

To key way the crank - a groove is professionally cut into the crank, sprockets and pulley (slots have to line up with the timing in the correct position), a woodruff key (approx 5mm x 5mm square section bar)is then inserted into these matching slots to restrict any movement.

HTH

[perksy]

Anybody know of any cheaper options than Raceline ?

Might be worth having a chat with Scholar   CLICKY