It Almost Looks Like A Car Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 Having a problem getting my Madness loomed 1.8 Zetec going, have tried swapping fuel pump wires with no luck. Elektrisity(!) is not my strong point, but when testing at the fuse box, there is no power going in fuel pump circuit when the ignition is on, but there is power going when engine turns over (but then can not hear if fuel pump working!!!) Done a search and come up with a possible problem with ecu/main loom 4 pin connection. Anyone had any other problems apart from this and fuel pump wiring? Hopefully will have a helper this sunday so any further zetec suggestions usefull. Thanks in advance! Quote
nikpro Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 my fuel pump relay was defective from new, its one of the relays next to the ECU - try swapping them for known good ones- it stopped the fuel pump from working. You should hear the fuel pump run for 3 seconds when you switch on the ignition then it cuts out untill the engine starts (safety feature so the pump doesn't run unless the engine is running) Quote
pistonbroke Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 Could try 12v direct to pump to eliminate relay etc. just long enough to check it runs ! also check there is a good negative return connection from the pump back to the bat -ve Quote
It Almost Looks Like A Car Posted January 3, 2007 Author Posted January 3, 2007 Cheers for getting back, Don't think earthing is the prob cos engine spins real quick on the key, unless there is a seperate earth for fuel pump circuit, will buy a couple of relays and swap to see what happens before swapping any more wires about!! Thanks Again Quote
jak Posted January 3, 2007 Posted January 3, 2007 Done a search and come up with a possible problem with ecu/main loom 4 pin connection. Anyone had any other problems apart from this and fuel pump wiring? That would be mine then, speak to Mark Walker, he was very helpful when I had the problems with mine. John Quote
Mitchamidilly Posted January 3, 2007 Posted January 3, 2007 Done a search and come up with a possible problem with ecu/main loom 4 pin connection. Anyone had any other problems apart from this and fuel pump wiring? That would be mine then, speak to Mark Walker, he was very helpful when I had the problems with mine. John Second the advise to speak to Mark at the factory. I had to join the green and white wires together on the Westfield loom. Quote
Sir Greg Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Not in any way making light of your predicament...............................But.......maybe this could assist.... Nulon Quote
NRW Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Hi there I've got a madness 1.8 Zetec kit and the fuel pump only operates briefly to pressurise the system as already stated then it runs when engine starts or something like that! all controlled by the ECU. You can check the fuel system by giving the schrader valve a poke (on the inlet manifold looks like a bicycle tyre valve) when you try to start it fuel should pee out so be careful. This also bleeds the system. Check the wiring to the fuel pump with a meter and that you have the fuel go and return pipes correct. Otherwise they do seem difficult to start 1st off judging by my experience and that of others on this site. Also the fuel pump on mine is very quiet and was difficult to hear when initially trying to start for the 1st time. Good luck Quote
It Almost Looks Like A Car Posted January 5, 2007 Author Posted January 5, 2007 Thanks one and all, lots of good advice as always! And Sir Greg....I know all about "Start Ya B*****D" cos I learnt to to drive in a Austin Gypsy, the forunner of a Mk1 Landy that weighed almost 2 tonne and would only start with loads of that sort of stuff squirted in the air intake...I lost my eyebrows one time when I got my younger brother to turn it over while looking to close to the air intake and got blowback!!!!! Oh happy days!!!!!! Quote
Sir Greg Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 Hehe... it's only after experiencing the blow back phenomenon that you realise not to look into the air intake! I've blown a few exhausts to bits by keeping churning them over while pumping EZ start down the carb! Makes a helluva bang... Quote
It Almost Looks Like A Car Posted January 7, 2007 Author Posted January 7, 2007 YES...YES...YES....I got it started, had to run a seperate 12v wire from the heater circuit to the fuel pump via a fuse (just in case!) and swap earth at pump, but it started on first turn of the key!!!! So just got to have a chat with WF why the fuel pump circuit only has power at the fuse when you turn it over, not when the ignition is on and why there is no power at all at the fuel pump end of wire. Also it won't idle at all, just stops if you take foot off loud pedal and rev counter numbers not right....think first is something to do with fuel pump circut probs and second to do with me setting rev counter switches wrong....but hey who cares after two years of building my car started!!!!!!!! Quote
JimNoble Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 This sounds very much like a problem I had with my Speedsport kit back in 2001. (I'm assuming the madness kit has TBs rather than carbs here) To cut a long story short, the throttle body pot was on the wrong way around. So if you didn't put your foot on the throttle pedal, the ecu thought you actually had it floored - which puts it into "clear out flooded engine" mode and cuts the fuel completely (& pump?). If you gave it some gas it would run very rough, but cut out as soon as you lifted your foot off the pedal. If you have access a laptop, cable & easimap, you should check the TPS voltage is what it should be (0.67-0.69v ish IIRC). Not sure what the best debug method is without being able to talk to the ecu. Hang on a mo, I'll see if I can find a useful photo of it... Jim Quote
JimNoble Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 Here we go - here's how it arrived: and this is how it is now (or rather a few months ago when I took the pic - I'm assuming it's not moved though!): Note that [for the part I have...] the writing should be hidden on the TB side, and the wires should go green->red->yellow from the engine side outwards... HTH, Jim Quote
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