Front brakes thru body and nosegrill

[timandchris]

We believe from wf that the front brake pipes go through the body 7" down 1" in from the front of the curved edge of the body -

A little worried about routing of the metal brake pipe - see below, anyone got a nice picture.

Also anyone know how we fix the grill onto the nose cone, the manuel says nothing about it...

Also has anyone actually managed to fit the indicator repeaters using the recommended method?

Thanks in  advance

timandchris

[Blacknblue]

I didn't want to fit mine through the bodywork, my chassis had a small tab near the suspension area to mount them. Just had to get slightly longer flexy hoses. But routing the pipe around the battery tray was a nightmare, I had to get a roll of brake pipe and remake the nearside metal one in an effort to make it fit.

As for the grill I used several loops of strong wire fibreglassed onto the inside of the nosecone return, then cable tied the grill to those. That way you don't notice any fixings from the outside.

[Martin Keene]

As for the grill I used several loops of strong wire fibreglassed onto the inside of the nosecone return, then cable tied the grill to those. That way you don't notice any fixings from the outside.

Or body coloured cables ties...

[Impney]

For the grill I used 4 cable ties. Works a treat    

[KerryS]

I didn't like the idea of going though the bodywork either so used the tabs with holes that were welded to chassis. If you have a forward mounted battery, the LHS one will need bending away from the battery position by about 45 degrees. I thought there was something on my build site about this?

Not routing them through the bodywork means they can be bled before the body goes on which is a whole heap easier and make a horrid job just unpleasant

Kerry

edit: just looked at pic again - see body is on sorry

[Symbiotic_Caterpillar]

I found it was fine cutting the holes for the brake pipes. Not nearly as scary as I thought it would be. I've put up a couple of pics of how I routed the pipe to get to the hole.

It is very hard to get a good photo of it with the engine and water pipes in the way. Not saying that this is how it should be done. It is just the way I did it. The brake pipe is easy enough to bend with your fingers.

As for the indicator repeaters. They are designed to fit in metal skinned (thin) cars not GRP (thick). This means that you have to file the ends of the hole to a sharp edge to allow the repeater to clip in. If the hole gets too big don't worry. Just use silicon sealant to hold the repeater in place. On my car one side is clipped in and the other is siliconed.

I hope this helps.

[Jack T]

Went through the body with mine had no problems and does look neat, just carfully bent a nice curve in the in the brake pipe.

As for the front grill i fiberglassed in 6 m6 x 50mm bolts into the nose cone then fixed the grill to it. The factory use cable ties but no offence i think it looks naff.  

Jack

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

The factory use cable ties but no offence i think it looks naff.  

Jack

Seconded. I didn't want to be able to see any grill fixings from the front, so I Sikaflexed four pieces of angle aly equally spaced inside the nose cone and tie wrapped the grill onto those.

[Tony Hughes]

Hi Tim and Chris,

Took my front brakes thru the body as per WF - no problem, although the LHS is tight around the battery tray and the coolant hoses.  You may find the flexis foul the wheel rims - mine did - although once the car is on it's wheels the clearance is much improved; you may need to loosen the union where it goes thru the body and rotate the flexi to improve the clearance further.  Re. the grille - I bonded some short lengths of copper brake tube bent into a 'hump' shape to the inside of the nose and tie-wrapped to these - worked a treat.

Cheers,

Tony

[timandchris]

Thanks to all of you for your help.

It really is much appreciated.

Tim and Chris