michaelcoombs Posted October 26, 2006 Posted October 26, 2006 My homemade floor mounted system has 3/4 master cylinders and my pivot point to balance bar dimension is quite long. I can’t sense any movement in my pedal at all with my foot.... but you really have to press if you want it to stop, I like it like that. You can have a solid pedal feel if you want it… just have to design and spec it to be so. Quote
mark.anson Posted October 26, 2006 Posted October 26, 2006 Quite often cars with floor mounted pedal have a long or spongy pedal. I finally cured mine by fitting remote resevoirs that were higher than the horizontal plane of the callipers. Quote
VX2L16V Posted October 26, 2006 Posted October 26, 2006 my reservoirs are on top of the (dual) master cylinders? Quote
slippy Posted October 26, 2006 Posted October 26, 2006 Our is gradual so quite easy to modulate but end of the day it's down to personal prefernce if your happy with your stiffness and it does the job then I don't see an issue Quote
reaper Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 since i changed to dot 5 fluid my pedal is totally solid, it used to have a lot of movement but now it doesnt move at all Quote
robthehungrymonkey Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 SO... if you want a solid pedal, you need the 4 pots and an uprated master cylinder? I'd prefer my brakes to have a "harder pedal", but I don't think i'd get the full benefit of the 4 pots (I don't do enough track days) Quote
cast iron Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 when i first bought my car the pedal seemed soft, bleeding would bring it back but would last five minutes. It turns out my rear wheel bearing was on its way out and the paly was allowing the disc to push the pads back (known as knock off) new wheel bearing and the difference was unbelieiveable. so I would recomend you check your bearings Also when bleeding the rears if they are cosworth calipers the bleed nipple isnt the highest point due to the way Westfield mount them, you have to undo the bottom bolt and rotate the caliper up so the nipple is the highest point, make sure the pads dont come off the disc! hope this helps Quote
chazpowerslide Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 Mine is a live axle car so it is possible. Chaz. Quote
scott beeland Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 Bit of a minefield this as it's down to personal preference I reckon. My pedal has quite a lot of "soft" travel but I find this great for brake modulation AND trail braking into corners/roundabouts etc. If I really need to pull the car up quick there's PLENTY of bite to be had not much further down the pedal travel. (CAT 4 pots and Mintex 1144's...Oh and 1B tyres) Quote
pistonbroke Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 All this to do about the middle pedal Its the one on the right that counts , as long as that one goes all the way to the floor , whats the prob Quote
spence Posted October 28, 2006 Posted October 28, 2006 All this to do about the middle pedal Its the one on the right that counts , as long as that one goes all the way to the floor , whats the prob Thats what i was thinking. Whats a brake for anyway, it only slows you down. I feel the need the need for speeeeeeeeeeed...... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.