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Posted

Hi there,

Am finally getting around to having my CVH sump sorted out (too low). Johnny at Stanwood Engineering is going to take a new sump that I send him and make it shallow and baffled and alter the new oil pickup pipe to match. All well and good.

Question is:

Do I pay the local Ford garage £123 for a genuine new sump for Johnny to hack around, or do I buy a 'quality' replacement CVH sump from Ebay for £50?

I'm thinking you get what you pay for, but I've seen a few posts on here suggesting that Ford sumps are paper thin anyway. So would there be any real difference between a genuine and replacement one?

Your thoughts please chaps  :)

Cheers,

Posted
Whats wrong with one from a scrappy?  If its going to be hacked about anyway you might as well get one for £10, clean all the oil out and chuck it in the dishwasher and it'll be ready to go :D
Posted

Because, believe it or not, most of them rust like bu99ery... :0

One of the few engines that you can buy 'pattern' replacement sumps for... ;)

Posted

So don't waste my money lining Mr Ford's pocket then!

Scrappy or ebay if I'm feeling flush. Interestingly my existing sump of 12 years old isn't too bad rust wise, although some nasty creases and dents, hence why I want to send Johnny a decent one to work with.

Cheers

Posted

Will he do a discount for two? I'll have one if there's going to be someone making it.

As long as the sump was the right version i'd get one from ebay.

You have pm

David

Posted

:suspect:  ??? I need to replace my cvh sump over the winter as its been clattered that many times its now leaking.On the subject of shortened and baffled sumps i was told ,due to reduction in oil capacity i will probably have to look at an oil cooler.

Is this correct ?Also anyone know if you get a baffled cvh sump off the shelf from anywhere?

Cheers

Mark

Posted

Interesting thread.....

I have the sump of my car at the mo (in fact the engine is in bits waiting for my Ferriday 2 ltr CVH to arrive)....But, I'm surprised yo uhave issues with ground clearance, the ride height on my car is set up to 125 front, and 148 rear, which is about right, and I find I have no problems grounding....Also, the standard sunp is quite deep, and the oil pick up sits in a nice low well...I've personally had no issues with the CVH sump even on the track...I would worry that shortening the sump would actually alklow the oil to be raised, and thus make it easier to flow to the front of the sump under breaking ............Not saying it's the wrong thing to do of course, just curious if you guys have had problems with the standard sump......Also, it's a bit of tin, so I would grab one of ebay.......

Posted

:)  :p  :) I htink its probably all these bleedin speed bumps down here in the midlands  :angry:  :angry:  :angry:

Might be an ebay purchase though,cheers

Posted

Cvh sump is a pain in its standard form. Clonked mine in2004 and put myself out of the coast 2 coast at Sutton Bank..The only DNF i think.

I replaced it with a pattern part and it was fine. Dont over tighten the screws tho, or the rubber gasket squashes and leaks like sive

Posted

The CVH was raced in a single seater for a short time, so dry and short sumps do come up for sale from time to time.

The common practise for these is to fit a "winged" sump, when shortend so that the oil capacity remains similar, but make sure it is baffled. Once done mine was fine, never even considered an oil cooler.

These is a school of though that says you need the engine to correctly measure the pick up pipe, as the clearence is quite sensative.

Posted

Surely £50 will get you a whole engine nether mind just the sump!

You will have lots of engine spares for future as well then.

John

Posted

Interesting replies chaps  :)

Jenko - yes I have hit it a couple of times. Nothing too serious but it is very low (only 60mm clearance without me in the car). Met some of the Surrey guys at the Detling show a couple of years ago and they said 'get that sump sorted'  :p

Off the shelf CVH shallow sump - no chance. I phoned around LOTS of places, and ended up talking to Ivan at Procomp and Johnny at Stanwood Engineering. Both could do the job for me for a reasonable price and knew exactly what they were talking about.

Re markcoopers comments - yes it will be winged (well flared out at the top a little) and baffled so should be fine. Stanwood also said they would weld it and modify the pickup pipe I am supplying on a CVH block to make sure it will definitely all fit.

I'm happy with Stanwood, so I'll be buying my eBay sump next week, and sending that and the pickup pipe off for modification.

Then I can have fun fitting it without splitting the gasket  ???

Cheers.

Posted
Then I can have fun fitting it without splitting the gasket  ???

Easy. Just use some dabs of super glue to affix the gasket to the new sump before offering it to the engine... ;)

Posted

Thought I would add my experiences to this thread.  I run what I think is the only CVH engined car running regularly in the Speed Series so I’ve had some experience of short sumps and oil surge.

I’ve looked at all the options including buying a new dry sump system, using one from an existing single seater and various shortened baffled and winged sumps.  The problem is the CVH pick up pipe doesn’t go straight down into the sump it sits at about 45 degrees fine if you’ve got Mr Fords deep sump but it’s shortened you have a problem.

I finished up with baffled sump and as belt and braces an Accusump this stores a litre of oil at pressure and releases it into the system when the engine oil pressure drops below 35 psi.  It works, and I know this because at Curborough I forgot to switch it on and got a warning light on the long left hander after the start, I run a 25 psi oil pressure switch, it also proved my baffling was no good.  The disadvantage is that I’m carrying extra weight and when it operates there’s an extra litre of oil sloshing round the system.  Accusumps are used a lot by BECs in racing, picture below but don’t rush out and buy one without talking to me.

The problem is that unlike other engines it’s not been possible to buy a modified CVH sump off the shelf, so if Stanwood can do it and they have or will have a CVH block to work from then I’m very interested, I already have a new Ford sump to work with.

Finally my tips for sump fitting,  use only Ford sealant and only on the four points where the oil pump and rear bearing housing meets the block.  Cut the heads off 8 x 6mm bolts or obtain pieces of  6mm studding, screw these into the block, 2 at each end and 2 on each side put the gasket in place pushing it up the studs, the gasket will hold in place and be properly positioned.  Then you can slide the sump up the studs and insert the other bolts finish by removing the studs and inserting the correct bolts, do not overtighten.  The studs are also useful for positioning the cam cover gasket.  

If anyone wants to talk about CVH sumps or anything else CVH orientated drop me a PM.

8953.jpeg

Posted

Hi MartinH,

Well, you've done it now!.....As I'm building a 2 ltr CVH over the winter (block from Ferriday)...I'll need loads of advice on getting it ready for the road and track!...So expect PM's.

Actually, I remember seeing your car at goodwood this year and speaking to you about the accusump :-).

Cheers.

Paul.

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