peterrosey Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 Had a similar issue with the chassis on my car (Fury, cough..). Chassis is 12 years old and had surface rust. Stripped it all down, sanded everything, used POR 15 Metal Ready spray and then brush-painted it with POR 15 rust preventation paint. It now looks excellent - can't recommend POR 15 enough. On some parts removed from the car I tried scraping the paint off as an experiment and found that it's almost impossible to do - dries rock hard and with quite a thick coating. Do not use Hammerite - it's not in the same league and will chip off and look cack. The Plastikote stuff from B&Q is good (I've used it for axles in the past) but again it's nowhere near as durable as POR15. Having said that, if the chassis is completely bare I would be tempted to blast it and get it powdercoated. I used about 2 litres of POR 15 paint on the chassis and probably didn't get much change from £60 or so. Another word of warning - make sure you put plastic sheeting down. I couldn't be bothered and found the paint pulled off lumps of concrete when I came to scrape it off the floor! Bet Hammerite can't do that... Quote
Bean Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 Had a similar issue with the chassis on my car (Fury, cough..). Chassis is 12 years old and had surface rust. Stripped it all down, sanded everything, used POR 15 Metal Ready spray and then brush-painted it with POR 15 rust preventation paint. It now looks excellent - can't recommend POR 15 enough. On some parts removed from the car I tried scraping the paint off as an experiment and found that it's almost impossible to do - dries rock hard and with quite a thick coating. Do not use Hammerite - it's not in the same league and will chip off and look cack. The Plastikote stuff from B&Q is good (I've used it for axles in the past) but again it's nowhere near as durable as POR15. Having said that, if the chassis is completely bare I would be tempted to blast it and get it powdercoated. I used about 2 litres of POR 15 paint on the chassis and probably didn't get much change from £60 or so. Another word of warning - make sure you put plastic sheeting down. I couldn't be bothered and found the paint pulled off lumps of concrete when I came to scrape it off the floor! Bet Hammerite can't do that... Did you strip the chssis back to nothing, i.e. remove the bodywork and everything else? So, you didn't get the chassis blasted, just sanded down the affected areas and repainted with Por15? Can you get Por15 in the shops? Sorry for all the questions, I've got a small section in my drivers side and don't have the space to remove all the bodywork. Quote
peterrosey Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 POR 15 is available mail order via Frost www.frost.co.uk tel:01706 658 619. Yes I just sanded down the affected bits and slapped on the POR15. However, my chassis had previously been painted. With powdercoat, you've got to make sure you've stripped the loose coating off to reveal fresh metal - rust creeps between the powdercoat and the steel. Any sign of bubbling under the powdercoat and it'll need stripping back. If it's just a small section affected, I'd strip it back either side of the bad bit and take it from there. Quote
Bean Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 Thanks for the information. One last question, does the metal ready product strip the chassis back to bare metal or did you have to sand first? My chassis is powdercoated, I assume I'll have to remove that manually first. The por products look great, I'll attack my four link bars and wishbones later in the year when the car is offroad. Quote
perksy Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 One last question, does the metal ready product strip the chassis back to bare metal or did you have to sand first? The por products look great, I'll attack my four link bars and wishbones later in the year when the car is offroad. Nope, Metal ready prep's the metal surface prior to applying the Por 15 It leaves a zinc based coating on the metals suface (changes colour, goes Whiteish) you then wipe this down with a damp rag or similar and then apply the Por 15 Por 15 also sell a Stripping solution aswell but i used some chemical stripper and a scraper Be Careful using Por 15 Make sure you read the Warnings on the can Here's one we did earlier Quote
Bean Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Did you use the chassis coat after the rust preventative paint? Sorry for all the questions Quote
perksy Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Sorry for all the questions No worries, that's what we're all here for 1. Stripped off old powder coat down to base metal 2. Applied Por 15 Metal ready (follow the instructions) 3. Applied 2 coats of Por 15 (follow the instructions) 4. Applied 2 coats of Ronseal 6 year Metal protection paint in Black satin 5. Applied Waxoyl to finish it all off... When researching Por 15 i found a report from a bloke in America whoose Jeep had been Completely Gutted in a Fire All that was left was the Chassis and the Por 15 was still intact.... HTH Quote
Bean Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 Brilliant, I'm almost looking forward to doing the bad sections on my car now I'll work around the body, there aren't many bad areas I can't get to. Ronseal metal protection in black satin, should match well with the surrounding powder coat. Quote
FURRY Posted September 16, 2006 Author Posted September 16, 2006 HELLO EVERYONE, AFTER GETTING BACK TO A CHASSIS. I FIND THAT I HAVE A LARGE AMOUNT OF SILICONE ON THE CHASSIS AND WONDERERED HOW TO GET IT OFF. MANY THANKS FURRY Quote
rgs_laverda Posted September 16, 2006 Posted September 16, 2006 Would this coating system be suitable for axles and suspension parts? Quote
Bean Posted September 17, 2006 Posted September 17, 2006 Would this coating system be suitable for axles and suspension parts? I don't see why not Although it's cheap to get small bits powdercoated, wishbones for example. Quote
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