Duratec Install with Raceline Water Rail

[johnsubaru]

Hi Guys

Has anybody fitted the Raceline water Rail on a Duratec install?? If so can you tell me how you routed the hoses and what hoses you used??? I'm not using a heater by the way.

Thanks

John

[Westfieldman]

You don't need a Raceline water rail

Blank the top red pipe into the heater

Pipe the blue pipe [shown out of the heater] into the small pipe on the side of the thermostate from the header tank

delete the pipe show from the header tank to the bottom hose as you have already pipped this in

Make sure you pipe the black bypass pipe in these are the two gold colured steel pipes comining out of the alloy block

Also you can use a MAZDA manual thermostate

This is how mine is pipped up

[johnsubaru]

Thanks for the reply Paul. I already have the Water Rail installed and i had to modify it to make it fit so i can't send it back. I just wanted to know what other people who have fiited the water rail did regarding layout and what hoses they used etc as the Thermostat outlet on the water rail is a long way from the outlet on the rad.

Cheers

John

[conibear]

Outlet (flow) from t/stat housing to top right of polo rad. Bottom of polo rad to (return) water pump housing on block. I used flexible re-enforced Samco blue hoses sized accordingly.

Route a 1/4" PVC flexible braided tube to a 1 litre water catch tank from outlet bleed nipple located on the t/stat housing of water rail.

My rad fan switch (82-87oC) is located in the side of the polo rad.

Make sure you remove the standard water thermostat from within the water pump housing of the block.

Any other queries you can contact me

Ian

[Glen H]

As Ian says really, make sure you get the 'threaded bung' from Raceline to blank off the Heater outlet half way along the water rail.

You will also need to blank off the 2 smaller outlets from the Black thermostat housing neer the water pump (the ones with the black and blue lines in Pauls piccy above), I did this with a short stub of pipe, then inserted some Copper plumbing cap ends iside the pipe end and fixed with Jubilee clip (but I am led to believe that Ford do prper blanks for such jobs)

As for removing the old stat as Ian mentions then unbolt the housing and this just gets pulled / broken out with a set of pliers, but leave the electrical connection socket in tact or you'll have a leak.

[Westfieldman]

QUOTE

You will also need to blank off the 2 smaller outlets from the Black thermostat housing neer the water pump (the ones with the black and blue lines in Pauls piccy above),

At your peril unless the water rail replaces the bypss in another way

[johnsubaru]

Thanks for the reply guys. I didn't know wether flexible hose would be ok for such a long run from the thermostat housing.

2 More questions -

Where did you get the flexible Samco hose from???

Can the catch tank be mounted anywhere? ie does it need to be at the lowest point or the highest??? or does it not matter??

Thanks

John

[conibear]

Paul, why would you want a bypass when there's nothing to bypass  

John, I got my Samco flexible's from Merlin Motorsport, but I expect Highbury hoses do em as well.

Your be surprised how ridged the flexible hoses are, as they have steel wire in them. Distance is not a problem, it aint been an issue on mine.

Catch tank can go anywhere. On mine, it bolts to the bottom of the chassis in front of the engine.

[johnsubaru]

Thanls Ian i've now ordered my hoses from Merlin.

Cheers

John