RV8 Exhaust manifold bolt

[adamnreeves]

I do not think that would have helped as the problem is the bolt sheared under my brute force, using an air wrench would have still resulted in the the bolt shearing just sooner than by hand.

Not necessarily... if you set the gun on low torque then it may have just tap-tap-tapped away at the rust or whatever is holding it and broke its hold. It might not have done of course but then you'd be no worse off.

The sad thing is, I have an impact wrench and compressor and didn't think to use it!  

[adamnreeves]

Adam if when you torque the heads back down the bolts strip the thread in the block (Like mine did   ) don't panic as I have a helicoil kit just for that purpose you are welcome to it if needed.  

Cheers Barry, it will be a long time before the heads are torque down again, unfortunately, mainly because I am getting ambitions with my mods (again!)  I am also planning on installing studs. If the threads strip, I will panic! I haven't looked into the torque required for the studs, but could be less than that required for bolts I suspect.

[Mike H]

Hi Adam,

Not sure if you will be able to get the manifolds off 'in situ' when using studs - might be worth asking on the mailing list.

Mike

[highwayman]

Adam, can you PM me your address as I have the address for getting proof of engine age for SVA, which will guarantee it for you. Its probably worth getting it done soner rather than later.

Regarding the manifolds try to get the engine into the chassis before putting any of the bodywork on its going to be so much easier believe me, I didn't and had to remove the engine twice and it was a real b*******

Dave

[adamnreeves]

Hi Adam,

Not sure if you will be able to get the manifolds off 'in situ' when using studs - might be worth asking on the mailing list.

Mike

I have assumed that studs will not provide enough room for the manifolds, not even going to ask, I know space is too limited. Studs in the block for the heads though should present no problems.

[adamnreeves]

Adam, can you PM me your address as I have the address for getting proof of engine age for SVA, which will guarantee it for you. Its probably worth getting it done soner rather than later.

Regarding the manifolds try to get the engine into the chassis before putting any of the bodywork on its going to be so much easier believe me, I didn't and had to remove the engine twice and it was a real b*******

Dave

Oh yes, my body work is going to be the last job.

On the other, yes, I want to start the ball rolling on this, you are right, thanks, you have a PM.

[Mike H]

Hi Adam,

Not sure if you will be able to get the manifolds off 'in situ' when using studs - might be worth asking on the mailing list.

Mike

I have assumed that studs will not provide enough room for the manifolds, not even going to ask, I know space is too limited. Studs in the block for the heads though should present no problems.

Oh yes, misread your post a little.

Head studs are a good idea as I think the later 10 bolt versions use stretch bolts which you should replace every time you undo them AFAIK.

Mike

[highwayman]

Sorry Mike,

You may need the info for your engine too PM me if you want it

Dave

[Mike H]

Done

[adamnreeves]

Hi Adam,

Not sure if you will be able to get the manifolds off 'in situ' when using studs - might be worth asking on the mailing list.

Mike

I have assumed that studs will not provide enough room for the manifolds, not even going to ask, I know space is too limited. Studs in the block for the heads though should present no problems.

Oh yes, misread your post a little.

Head studs are a good idea as I think the later 10 bolt versions use stretch bolts which you should replace every time you undo them AFAIK.

Mike

The block I have is the pre 93 which means it is the 14 bolted head version which did not use stretch bolts. You supposedly can use the bolts 4 times or so, but I am going to replace with studs as I think with an alloy block it is better as it does not ware the softer threads so much when removing the heads, etc.

However I really do believe that the heads have never been off this block the threads are perfect and so are the bolts. Had the thin tin type head gasket and no sign of leaks, remarkable I think for a 17 year old engine with 128 miles I think!

I also made some progress on sorting out my stud, as you know I drilled out. (very luckily, and a bit of judgement, seemed okay). I got hold of 3/8-16 UNC tap (bought a complete imperial set of UNF/UNC tap and dies). Another bit of luck is that the first couple of threads where visible in the stud hole as that part of the stud fractured away when I w as drilling it out. The next bit of luck is I managed to line up the tap with these threads and re-threaded through the 5mm or sort of reamining stud and forced my way through which cut way the stud and the thread seem to join up with the lower threads in the hole. Considering my sledge hammer approach in tackling this problem initially I think I have been very lucky and leant somethings along the way.