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Testing brake system pior to bleeding


adamnreeves

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I am very close to finishing my braking system. As I have an air compressor I was thinking last night that it would be good to attach to my brake system and pressurize up to see if check the system is completely sealed before getting involved with brake fluid.

I guess this could not damage any components because my compressor is rated MAX is 120PSI and that is much lower than the rating of the brake system anyway by a number of factors.

Anyone done this, what is the best way to attach. I guess I will have to get a filter on my compressor to remove any moisture?

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I got an EZI bleed system from Halfrauds which you connect to a spare tyre pumped to 20 psi. This worked really well  I have to say found all the leaks and is a one man job. They don't reccomend more that 20 psi so be careful!!
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The Ezi Bleed only works when the system is full of fluid. The system, when full, will see pressures of several hundreds of psi, if not in to the thousands. Even a weedy brake seal will be able to resist 120psi of air...

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The seals between the fluid reservoir and the master cylinder do not take any significant pressure in normal use, I believe that is why ezi Bleed say a max of 20psi. If you connect your airline to the reservoir, like an ezi bleed, you'll probably blow it off!
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The Ezi Bleed only works when the system is full of fluid. The system, when full, will see pressures of several hundreds of psi, if not in to the thousands. Even a weedy brake seal will be able to resist 120psi of air...

Granted. My thoughts with the compressor was really to check that I have done all the connectors up tight enough and that there aren't any gapping holes, etc!

I have tightened the connectors up by hand I would estimate about 10 ft/lbs. I am not sure how tight they should be. I was just worried about stripping theads on the brass.

Thanks for the how it works link, I shall read when I am not in work time!

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Best thing to do is fill the reservoir with fluid and open the rear caliper bleed nipples and pump the pedal (keeping the res topped up with fluid) untill you get fluid out of both of them, then repeat for the fronts.  Once the system is full of fluid, pump the pedal a few times and see how hard it is.  Then hold it down as hard as you can and release.  Then check all the pipe joins for leaks - should be obvious as fluid will have seeped out.  Tighten any leaking joints dry them and re-try.  When you get no leaks, then bleed the brakes.
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I agree if you use much more than 20 PSI you might blow the seals. BTW my ezibleed filled the empty system the instructions don't mention anything about starting from scratch but it certainly worked ok. Reckon the advice is leave the air compressor out of the equation
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it's not just the moisture to worry about.

If your compressor emits ANY mineral oil in the air supply this will F@ck up the seals in the whole brake system.

.....otherwise it should be fine  :D  :p  :D

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it's not just the moisture to worry about.

If your compressor emits ANY mineral oil in the air supply this will F@ck up the seals in the whole brake system.

.....otherwise it should be fine  :D  :p  :D

I only use mineral oil between the air line and the air tool.

Also when I was talking about connecting air compress to the system I did not mean via the master cylinder, ie not on the low pressure side but into the brake line itself but copes with 900psi or so I think.

But anyway I have an EZ bleed system now and will take the hit an hope I not end up with hydraulic fluid everywhere.

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Adam

I have used an ezi-bleed for years. Check ALL the joints before you bleed then the worst you will get is a minor weep, BUT make sure you use the correct cap for the master cylinder, this WILL leak fluid everywhere if you use the wrong one. Also Keep an eye on the resevoir you will be surprised how quick it empties. You should recon on getting through at least 2 bottles of fluid. I ditch the fluid when first bleeding a system as it will contain all the crap that was resident in the pipes etc.

Dave

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Adam

I have used an ezi-bleed for years. Check ALL the joints before you bleed then the worst you will get is a minor weep, BUT make sure you use the correct cap for the master cylinder, this WILL leak fluid everywhere if you use the wrong one. Also Keep an eye on the resevoir you will be surprised how quick it empties. You should recon on getting through at least 2 bottles of fluid. I ditch the fluid when first bleeding a system as it will contain all the crap that was resident in the pipes etc.

Dave

I had assumped that one should never re-use fluid that has been bled through the system anyway. Thanks. Regarding the cap, I did not buy the EZ-bleed I have borrowed off highwayman (Dave Wynton) who used it on his westfield, so should fit but point taken. At the risk of attracting comments about doing searches, what spec fluid, DOT 5.1, and is that all I need to know.

Thanks.

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Fluid - dot4 or dot5.1.  Do not use dot5

Just a question off topic, your signature, are you refering the dax or the westfield when you say the build is easy? !

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