Which Cam?

[cockerchumps]

Hello all, can someone help? I have a 1989 SE which I am currently re-building. I've just rebuilt the engine (info from The Car Builder's Handbook) it's a x-flow 1700 711M. I forgot to note the cam type and am now stuck. My question, can I determine which cam is fitted without stripping the engine again? Or how do I determine the valves clearences.

[cockerchumps]

The engine was built for me by a local firm and was an exellent runner before I stripped it, oil pressure was a bit down, only 1.5/2 bar (ordered HP / HC pump from burton on back order). I only stripped it as a learning exercise but ended up part flowing the head, cutting down valve guides, matched ports inlet / ex, had the carb serviced. It was only after I realised the valve clearences would need resetting. Have a made a hugh error?

[adhawkins]

Why not ask the company that built it what cams they put in?

If not, I think the only way to identify the cams is to take the head off again. The cams should be marked with their type.

Andy

[cockerchumps]

I did ask the guy who built the engine but he has forgotten 'apparently'. I did hear that you could determine the cam type through deduction, valve lift, deg of rotation etc. Only problem for me is that I would not know where to start. Any more ideas greatly appreciated.................

[Martin Keene]

Xflow cams have the model number stamp on an end. Problem is, I can't remember which end, I'm sure it is timing gear end which means taking of the timing chain and sprocket to read it.

Common ones by Kent are BCF2, BCF3, 234, 244, 254, etc...

[chazpowerslide]

Er, you won't get to see much of the cam on a cross flow by taking taking the head off Andy.

You should be able to read the number if it's stamped on the front of the nose if the cam (the end with the timing chane attached) if you remove the timing chane cover.

If the ID numbers are elswhere on the cam it will have to come out so you can read them.

It's not a full stripdown to remove the cam.

Chaz.

[7SE]

Bad news is that the cam number is on the back end of the cam.  With the engine out, remover the rear oil seal cover and you will see the back end of the cam with the nos on.  Good news is that there is no need to remove anything else

[Martin Keene]

I'm guessing it's still out of the car, being rebuilt, so hopefully it hasn't got a flywheel on it yet and it will be a 2 minute job...

[adhawkins]

Er, you won't get to see much of the cam on a cross flow by taking taking the head off Andy.

Sorry, showing my ignorance there

Thanks for correcting me. Should I have said 'rocker cover'?

Andy

[cockerchumps]

Thanks to all, engine is still hanging off the stand but the flywheel is fitted, never mind at least I can resolve the problem. Thanks once again.

Regards Peter

[scruffythefirst]

Thanks for correcting me. Should I have said 'rocker cover'?

Nope, crossflow is a pushrod engine, the cam is contained within the block.

[ghtwscc]

If you have a dial gauge and a magnetic stand you can measure the cam lift and compare with the spec tables produced by most cam manufacturers.  

Take the rocker cover off and set up the dial gauge so that it is on the end of the rocker directly above the push-rod. It needs to be set up directly in line with the direction of pushrod movement. Turn the engine over and measure the max lift reading and the min lift reading. Subtract the min from the max and that is your CAM lift.

You can compare this with tables produced by different cam manufacturers to try and ID the cam. Of course you may end up with two or more potentials , but if they all use the same valve clearance then you are sorted! Try measuring lift on both the inlet and exhaust lobes as these are often different and might help you differentiate between different manufacturers.

Can't guarentee a result from this method, but it may be worth a go before more invasive measures.

[cockerchumps]

If I'm honest I'm not too concerned with the outcome of the engine rebuild, I'm on a steep learning curve from which I expect to make numerous mistakes. I did a track day at oulton park with the 1700 last year and was a little dissappointed with the engine's response, I just couldn't keep up. The lack of power was due to the poor re-build carried out by a local firm who shall remain nameless. Eg. 4mm oversized head gasket, incorrect exhaust gaskets 2mm too small + numerous other school boy errors. A rolling road session last year showed 129 bhp at the fly (84 bhp wheels). I am not expecting miracles from my own re-build but I have spent alot of time porting/matching etc. etc. that I am confident of a wider smile. I've just had the carb's (delo 40's) serviced (£70 inc. spares). Even so, eventually I do hope to opt for a zetec variant or simillar. I have a spare 1660 x-flow if anyone is interested.

Thanks to all.

Regards Peter

PS. I'm after a small car trailler? Can collect.

[cockerchumps]

Additionally as stated I'm dropping 45 bhp through the drive train, is this expected or do I have additional problems. 45 bhp loss (if the rolling road session was accurate 'PowerTune' seems alot to me.

Regards P

[Hammy]

IMHO 45 BHP sounds a lot to me*. Do you know if the transmission looses were calculated from the car slowing down on the rollers with the clutch disengaged or did the roller man just say " thats about 130 at the flywheel".

*If you think the old Mk1 1100 Escort only had about 55bhp to start with and had virtually the same transmission.