Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 Likewise, used my engine hoist to lift it down in stages. Much safer, for the car and you! Quote
Tigger Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 I took mine off the stands WITHOUT the engine in, much easier Still took 5 people to do it .... 4 on the car and 1 removing the stands Tigger Quote
Glen H Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 Zetec SE chassis is 68kg bare, if this helps Carl That seems heavy, I had a Zetec/MT75 chassis and this weighrd 58.9kg. Sport 2000s chassis weighs 53.4kg. I Know its not what your after Adam, but people will come across this post in future searches etc. Adam, have you got the weight of the Sierra type drive shafts c/w the Lobro joints etc (i.e. ready to bolt in) Quote
VX2L16V Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 built ours on 3 axle stands I picked it up, miss melanie removed stands admitedly, it was only a rolling chassis at the time... been on it's wheels ever since Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 Also useful to know the weight when I decide how to lower to the floor. Can me and one of my bodybuilding buddies lower it to the floor on our own! (I squat 300kgs at the Gym) Not a Chance! When you lower it to the floor you will have a V8 and a gearbox in there - if you try we will send both of you cards in the spinal injury clinic of your local hospital! Ha, Ha. I am not intending on lifting down manually with the engine in. I want to lift down when a rolling chassis so that I can torque up the suspension bolts and I need to turn it around so the front is facing the outside of the garage, at the moment it is the wrong way round to install an engine anyway. Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 Zetec SE chassis is 68kg bare, if this helps Carl That seems heavy, I had a Zetec/MT75 chassis and this weighrd 58.9kg. Sport 2000s chassis weighs 53.4kg. I Know its not what your after Adam, but people will come across this post in future searches etc. Adam, have you got the weight of the Sierra type drive shafts c/w the Lobro joints etc (i.e. ready to bolt in) no I haven't got the weight of the drive shafts, wished I had remembered to weigh them. Quote
Martin Keene Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 You'll need to install an engine before torquing the suspension bolts up. The engine will make quite a difference to the ride height. They are easier than you might think to lift with the engine in, I helped lift a speedsport off it's build stands once and it only took 6 people to lift the front of the car and it was very nearly finished. Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 You'll need to install an engine before torquing the suspension bolts up. The engine will make quite a difference to the ride height. They are easier than you might think to lift with the engine in, I helped lift a speedsport off it's build stands once and it only took 6 people to lift the front of the car and it was very nearly finished. Oh, alright then. But then I still need to turn the car around, and sooner the better really. Quote
nikpro Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 if you have poly/nylon bushes you can torque up on stands as it's the actual metal insert in the bush you are tightening against. Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 if you have poly/nylon bushes you can torque up on stands as it's the actual metal insert in the bush you are tightening against. I was told not to torque up until on the floor, as it caused pre-loading, if thats the right term. Someone explain this to me! But if you can do this on the stands in the case of nylon or poly bushes, I have nylon bushes, because of the metal insert, is this not the same for metalastic as those also have a metal inserts too just has rubber around it. Quote
Al Yupright Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 With metalastic bushes the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer sleeve. So thats why its important to do it at rideheight. With nylon bushes it doesnt matter and I'd say it is important to torque them up and try moving the wishbones up and down by hand (will need to disconnect the dampers for this). If there is significant stiction, you need to fettle the bushes more! Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 With metalastic bushes the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer sleeve. So thats why its important to do it at rideheight. With nylon bushes it doesnt matter and I'd say it is important to torque them up and try moving the wishbones up and down by hand (will need to disconnect the dampers for this). If there is significant stiction, you need to fettle the bushes more! I see what you mean regarding the inserts now. I am however concerned what you say about fettling, what fettling, I have simply just inserted the nylon sleeves in by hand and pressed the insert in with my bench vice. What nightmare is about to hit me? Quote
conibear Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 I have simply just inserted the nylon sleeves in by hand and pressed the insert in with my bench vice. What nightmare is about to hit me? why have you needed a vice to push the steel inners in Quote
adamnreeves Posted March 6, 2006 Author Posted March 6, 2006 I have simply just inserted the nylon sleeves in by hand and pressed the insert in with my bench vice. What nightmare is about to hit me? why have you needed a vice to push the steel inners in because it was easier, didn't have to use much force though, but they all need about the same force. Quote
nikpro Posted March 6, 2006 Posted March 6, 2006 souldn't need any force to insert them; infact it is normally a pain to stop them sliding out of the bush. If you needed a vice to install the sleeve you may need to reem out the bush. Quote
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