Barry Ashcroft Posted January 9, 2006 Posted January 9, 2006 I had no paperwork for my diff was not a problem when I registered. Do you have a cert of newness from the factory? Quote
adamnreeves Posted January 9, 2006 Author Posted January 9, 2006 I had no paperwork for my diff was not a problem when I registered. Do you have a cert of newness from the factory? I bought the diff from a private buyer who does not have any paper work. Quote
MAT1800 Posted January 9, 2006 Posted January 9, 2006 If you're concerned about getting a age related plate, then as long as this is the only new part which you can't prove the age on, it won't matter, as you are allowed one reconditioned part, whilst still getting a 'new reg' The 'Cert of Newness' that WF will send you, when you pass SVA and can give them the MAC number, will be OK to prove that the rest of the kit is new as far as DVLA is concerned. Mat. Quote
adamnreeves Posted January 9, 2006 Author Posted January 9, 2006 If you're concerned about getting a age related plate, then as long as this is the only new part which you can't prove the age on, it won't matter, as you are allowed one reconditioned part, whilst still getting a 'new reg' The 'Cert of Newness' that WF will send you, when you pass SVA and can give them the MAC number, will be OK to prove that the rest of the kit is new as far as DVLA is concerned. Mat. Yep I know that you are allowed one recondition part to get age related plate but I may use the engine as a reconditioned part and thus if the diff is deemed as reconditioned also then I cannot get age related plate and have to have a Q-plate which then means I cannot transfer my private plate over. P.S. Not entirely sure that the engine will be reconditioned or new yet but the price difference for a new V8 compared to a reconditioned one is quite a lot. I just wanted to maintain as many options as possible as I go through the build. Quote
Mike H Posted January 9, 2006 Posted January 9, 2006 I bought the diff from a private buyer who does not have any paper work. Borrow some ! Quote
Kevin Wood Posted January 9, 2006 Posted January 9, 2006 Borrow some ! Yes. There's no number stamped into a diff casing unlike on an engine block. Any unique reference it does have will be on the silver tag under one of the cover bolts so it's easy to transfer / remove. I doubt they'd look, to be honest. As long as it's shiny enough to look new... Kevin Quote
adamnreeves Posted January 11, 2006 Author Posted January 11, 2006 clean both surfaces well and use clear silicon sealer there is no gasket, tighten diagonaly & go round again to confirm torque. Regards Gordon I have cleaned both surfaces with a scrapper, I guess this is the normal procedure. Was not a lot of silicon on the surfaces especially the cover itself. It has put some very light surface scratches, which I guess cannot be avoided. You cannot feel the scratches, i.e. not gorges! Feels very smooth. It took me about 1hr. I have cleaned the surface with white spirit and sprayed with WD40 until I get the silicon. I guess once I have the silicon I should clean with white spirit again, let it dry for 20 minutes and then apply. When applying the silicon do I just draw a bead around the entire circumferance of the diff surface(do I draw around each bolt hole also?) and place the cover on and torque up as previously mentioned. Quote
Kevin Wood Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 I'd make sure the inside of the bolt holes are sealed so you don't get any leaks through the threads. a thin bead of it will probably squish out across the whole width of it once you torque the bolts down. Don't worry about any minor scratches on the mating faces as silicone will take up qute a bit of variation. Kevin Quote
Thrustyjust Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 I would de-grease with thinners on the mating surfaces. Quote
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