Sump change

[KerryS]

Removing Ford sump for cast WF one on the Zetec. All going fine until trying to remove the oil filter - thought I'd change this after 1400 miles from new - but I cannot shift it.

Strap wrench - bike chain type - broke. Tried punching screwdriver through and levering it but won't budge.

Thought I might try a *gentle* warm with hot air gun and try again.

Recommendations on a strap wrench anyone?

Kerry

[zvezdochka]

First time I changed my filter was also difficult. Used one of the webbing type strap wrenches with a 1/2 inch socket drive. Borrowed the longest 1/2 inch wrench (over 12 inches long), the socket end indented the casing by about 40mm before it finally turned.  Looked like the rubber gasket had rusted or bonded to the block, so I cleaned up the seal face and greased before fitting new filter, no problems since. (mine is also a Madness, and the engine had a 1998 label so may have been standing some time, hence the seal sticking)  Makes me wonder if I should change the cam belt, as it's now 7 years old, albeit with only a few thousand miles service.  Anyone know if the belts have a shelf life?

[Guest]

the three legged claw type usually shift most things

[Guest]

Cambelt intervals on "blacktop" zetecs are 100,000miles or 10yrs, "silver tops" and 1.7vct's are 80,000miles or 8yrs, personally I'd be inclined to change the belt every 2yrs or so, it won't need it but for peace of mind and the fact they're so easy that's what I would do

[Nick A]

get yourself one of these here they do other sizes too

very good and not to expensive or get a lenght of motor bike chain welded to a old half inch drive socket

or get a filter socket here don't know what size you need

[steppenwolf]

Don't know how significant it is but when I change my oil filter I wipe a film of oil onto the sealing 'O' ring before installation and I have always found mine very easy to unscrew - I use a cheap and cheerful 'strap wrench'. Could just be coincidence as I have no idea if the oil smear is retained for long but it seems to work for me.

[Guest]

Yep a smear of clean oil on the seal goes along way, done it all my working life as a mechanic

[Westfieldman]

When you have removed the filter check the threaded center tube is still tight in the engine

If the threaed tube is not TIGHT it can work loose therefore dumping the oil and a siezed engine follows

As your oil filter is soo tight you are struggling to remove it off the threaded tube the threaded tube may undo a little first before comming off so giving little warning of the loose tube in the engine

[Rob Navin]

You can come and borrow mine if you need one in a rush

[jeff oakley]

If you have tried all this and it still is not moving the only thing left is to get an old blunt screwdriver and on the very edge of the filter, the bit next to the seal, use it like a chisel and just tap it anti clockwise. You have to be very careful not to catch the filter mounting face on the engine, but it will work just shocking it off. It sounds like the filter is all mashed up at the moment so be careful of the razor sharp edges. As others have said smear oil when refitting and check the thread is undamaged. I have seen where filters have been cross threaded and some gorilla has just wound it up till it sealed.

[KerryS]

Thanks all. Yep, filter is completely u/s now with big hole in the side.

Nick - I saw one of the Snap-on tools in Halfrauds today but bought the bike-chain-attached-to-a-socket device instead

I'll take it back tomorrow and get money back

Clayderman - saw a 3-leged one in Halfrauds too, but at £16  - Machine Mart do same at less ££

Rob - thanks, but no rush at all

Westfieldman - thanks, I'll check this when I get the damm thing out

When I used to service my own cars before I couldn't be bothered/could afford someone else to do it, I always used to smear the face of the seal with oil. Presumably Ford can't be bothered since I assume it's a Ford OE fit.

I suspect I am in same situation as Zvezdochca was with first time removal.

Seem to have a buyer for old sump already

Kerry

[barney]

Kerry, i`ve used the same method as Jeff suggests,never failed yet,

Happy new Year anyway,  

Barney

[KerryS]

Thanks Barney. I have a plan a and plan b for tonight. Jeff's is plan b!

Hope U had a good    and Happy new Year to you and yours too.

Kerry

PS The Clock tomorrow?

[Nick A]

get a lenght of motor bike chain welded to a old half inch drive socket

never let me down and will remove the most mangled/damaged oil filters no problem only down side is you can't always get it into confined spaces  

[KerryS]

Success - sorted..............allmost!!!

Filter off with a 3-legged claw thingy, checked male threaded part and OK.

New filter on, new sump on,(with sealant across the 4 interfaces as per Ford documentation (thanks Nick)), starter motor back on, reconnected battery, put 4 litres of oil in and started engine.

Oil pressure cane up to 4 bar at idle after about 30 seconds. Job done, took a few photos and...

...then I found the leak

Right at the back of the sump on the semi-circular housing near the flywheel.

B****r!

Couldn't face taking it all off again so it can wait until tomorrow.

Thank-you all for your help. Much appreciated.

Kerry