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Can anyone help me???


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Posted

I currently have a SEiW built in '96 with Ford Essex V6 with Type 9 box feeding power through a sierra 4x4 rear diff.  Love the sound and torque of the power unit but finding it unable to go past 5500rpm and having destroyed the internals of the engine a third time in 18months i have decided it is time for a change.  I've decided to go for a 2.0 duratec and basically want as much advice as possible on getting the lump in there.

I have never done anything like this before so please forgive my total lack of knowledge on this.

The transmission tunnel is the narrow type!  Do i stick with the type 9? If so where is the best place to get the bell housing and the bits that go with it?  And what bits would i need?

or would it better to go for an alternative gearbox?

I would prefere to leave the existing box in the car as i don't want to mess around with the mountings and propshaft etc but find the first gear on the existing box pretty useless.

Engine mountings?

Can anyone tell me what the ratio of the rear diff would be?  I'd rather not pull it to bits to find out.  

If anyone can help me on this conversion i will write to Santa asking him to shower you with presents. :xmas:

Thanks,

Neil

Posted

Hi Neil,

I don't know the ins and outs, a few people on here have put duratecs in their westys though (westfieldman for one), think you'll have to buy a new box, the westfield factory duratec uses a mitchel cotts for instance.

SBD, Raceline and Dunnel all do bits for duratech installations, give them a ring.

HTH

Mark.  :t-up:

Posted

You can use the Type 9, you will just need a suitable bell housing. As Mark said SBD do them and I've heard they're better than the other.... Calling Westfieldman...

In fact you are better off sticking with the Type 9 if you want different ratios. You can a rebuilt one with the ratios you want for not much. BGH are the ones to call, although I haven't used them personally.

Diff ratio should be on a tag attached to the diff. Alternatively when you take out the engine prop the back up under axle stands (chock the front wheels) and then turn the input flange and work out how many turns to get a full revolution of the wheels.

HTH

Posted

the westfield factory duratec uses a mitchel cotts for instance.

Mitchell Cotts are a remanufacturer. They make type 9 and MT75 gearboxes for the "after market" industry now that Ford no longer make them. There is *nothing* special about a Westfield supplied Mitchell Cotts box...

Next question for Hairy2 is, how much money do you have? Fitting a Duratec in place of anything else is likely to cost in excess of 4 grand when all's said and done. It is *not* a cheap thing to undertake, espceially if you can't do much of it yourself and end up paying labour. FWIW, I could do most of the work myself, and I reckon it'd still cost me over 5K to fit a Duratec in the hole where my Cossie sits. It's a good engine, but not *that* good... yet :devil:

Posted
you'd be better off just getting the V6 right.What keeps going wrong?As Blatters says,you'll need a deep wallet for a Duratec.Raceline can supply all the bits you'll need,but from other mates experience and to do it right it can add up beyond the 6k wallet buster.Thats a lot of V6 for that.
Posted

The V6 keeps deciding to destroy different parts each time it falls apart.  First the timing gear exploded, killing the valves and pushrods.  Then one of the shells siezed on the big end, resulting in the crank being reground and a total ground up rebuild.  Then the final straw was the piston rings.  

I thought the duratec would be a good lightweight option as opposed to the massive dead weight in the front that already exists.  Bit shocked at what you expect it to cost.  I hope that includes TB's etc in that.

Type 9 looks like the best option.  A few phonecalls tomorrow may help with the research.  

Thanks

Neil

Posted

Duratech Ain't going to be cheap  :(

Careful re-build of the V6 with some nice ported/flowed heads, a nice cam and some nice pistons.

Have a chat with Scholar or Ferriday, well worth a phone call.....

Posted

Bit shocked at what you expect it to cost.

You will need

Bellhousing

Hydraulic CRB

Duratec steel flywheel and clutch standar Ford one is no us to you

Duratec engine new or used

engine loom to suit ECU [aftermarket one]

Alternator and belt etc.

Starter motor standard one works

Engine mounts

Sump wet or dry sump system [standard Ford one is no use]

Exhaust system

Fuel injection system [TB's and all the bits to make it work]

Duratec

Kits Flywheels Bellhousings

TP-DURA-203 Kit £1,817.30 FLY-W-DURA-01 £182.00 BEL-DURA-01

TP-DURA-214 Kit £2,217.30 FLY-W-DURA-02 £249.60 BEL-DURA-02

TP-DURA-233 Kit £2,500.30 FLY-W DURA-03 £225.00

FLY-W-DURA-04 £182.00 Pistons

Taper Throttle Kits PIST-OM-DURA-87.50XS

TP-DURA-2.0L-K1 £729.98 Flywheel Bolts

FLY-B-DURATEC-01K £35.70 Con Rods

Electronic Management Systems ROD-FD-2.0LDUR-146S

MBE967E-FORD £400.00 Clutch Cover ROD-FD-2.3LDUR-155S

CLTC-DURA-5905-1 £115.45

Wiring Looms Bigend Bearings

LM967E-PRICE £367.50 Clutch Plate BRG-DUR-2.0-0.00-ACL

CLT-5352-1x23 £60.78 BRG-DUR-2.0-0.25-ACL

Cam Shafts CLT-5352-7/8x20 £62.94 BRG-DUR-2.0-0.50-ACL

CM-DUR01 £400.00

CM-DUR02 £400.00 Clutch Kit Rod Bolts

CLT-KIT-DURA-S2000 £182.49 RB-DURA-01K

Valve Caps

VLC-DUR01 £54.00 Gaskets Dry Sump Kit

VLC-DUR02 £54.00 GSK10-DURA-01 £50.00 OS-DSK-DURATEC-1-IN

VLC-DUR02T £160.00 GSK3-DURA £8.90 OS-DSK-DURATEC-1-EX

Valve Springs Inlet Manifolds Wet Sump Kit

VLS-DUR01 £101.00 INL-MAN-DUR-01 £105.00 SMP-5K-DURA-CAT

VLS-DUR02 £148.00

Air Filter Back Plate

Cap, Spring & Platform Sets AR-BP-DURA1/JC50

VLS-CS-P-DUR-02K £235.00

VLS-CT-P-DUR-02K £296.00 HT Leads

HT-DUR-01

Valves HT-DUR-02

VLV-835 £19.64 HT-DUR-03

VLV-836 £19.64 HT-DUR-04

HT-DUR-SET-01

Well that didn't copy and paste well did it prices from SBD's web site

Posted

He probably won't need pistons, rods, valve caps, valve springs, valves, dry sump gaskets, cams.. in fact probably half that list won't be required if you are doing a simple engine swap without wanting to do any power upgrades.

It'll still cost a small fortune though, certainly twice as much (at least) as fitting a Zetec or a VX, and even then, as has been mentioned, fixing the V6 *properly* will probably be the cheapest/easiest solution.

That's not to say that we don't think you should do it if you want to. Just be aware that the Duratec is probably *the* most expensive 4 pot option out there right now, so be careful...

Posted

Blatters he will only need the first list the second list is just a price list to show the cost of bits badly copied and pasted from SBD's web site

The Duratec is no more expensive when buying new bits as TB's are TB's and cost around the same for any 4 pot engine same goes for the ECU loom, clutch, flywheel etc

Posted
What about the VX v6 that someone posted up a picture the other day?
Posted

Neil,

I converted my car to a 2.0L Duratec using a Type-9 gearbox and various bits from Raceline.  This was a couple of years ago, so I was a bit of a guinea pig and unfortunately did run into some problems that have hopefully been addressed by now.  The biggest issues were a result of the fact that (like you) I have a Type-9/narrow tunnel chassis, and Raceline developed the installation pieces using a Type-9/wide tunnel car.  The latter combo enabled them to mount the engine much further back in the car (good), which resulted in motor mounts that wouldn't line up in my chassis (bad), and an exhaust manifold that tried to share space with the right front wheel when approaching full lock (very bad).  Fixing both of these problems really ate into my budget, so I encourage you to confirm with the vendor that the motor mounts and exhaust will work as-is in your narrow tunnel car, or add budget accordingly.

I have a Sierra 4x4 LSD diff with a 3.62 ratio and my stock 1st gear is useless.  Anything close to full throttle results in a lot of wheel spin and virtually no forward motion.  Going with a resorted BGH box will solve this and is the path I plan to take next year.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

-John

Posted

Shawspeed do a good kit for the Duratec nothing like the 4K bandied about on here. Im a bit of a guinea pig for their Zetec SE conversion kit and their customer support is second to non

Check out the Shawspeed web site - Sorry I'm crap at pasting links

Posted
Shawspeed do a good kit for the Duratec nothing like the 4K bandied about on here. Im a bit of a guinea pig for their Zetec SE conversion kit and their customer support is second to non

Check out the Shawspeed web site - Sorry I'm crap at pasting links

True.A friend bought a 'new' duratec engine from Raceline.That cost £1600.You could get a runner from a breakers for £600. You'll have to change the sump,flywheel,clutch.My mate did a hydraulic clutch conversion,as it is supposed to be better.Throttle bodies,manifold and ecu system.Water rail kit ( or botch plumbing) sensors and injectors( don't use the standard ones) exhaust manifold and bellhousing.Alternator kit,as it's much better to use a compact jap one for clearance and fitting kit,which when westfields saw  Raceline system,I believe they may have a rethink on theres.Different engine mounts.Fuel injection pumps,air filters and mapping afterwards.I know my mate spent £6400.Take off the new engine and you are still at £4k.You can botch anything in to fit cheap,but I would sleep at night,knowing it was done for a tenner and would pack up in 50 yards.

Posted

Mitchell Cotts are a remanufacturer. They make type 9 and MT75 gearboxes for the "after market" industry now that Ford no longer make them. There is *nothing* special about a Westfield supplied Mitchell Cotts box...

Not strictly true,

Yes Mitchell Cotts are better known for their re-manufacturing skills but the box that Mitchell Cotts supplies to Westfild is their own design, it is basically a type 9 style box with seperate bellhousings, however they install MT75 internals / ratios

They call it their MTC-C box and can be seen in the Mitchell Cotts link from BJB Services site.

BJP Services / mitchell Cotts

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