Toggle switches best way to connect wiring

[RobC]

Looking to hook up my electrics and I have chosen toggle swtiches for the dash... Can anyone tell me how they have done theres.

This is probably really simple, but I am unsure as to the best way to go about it. be gentle and thought I would ask before I make a mess of things

I am thinking that (for example) the main light switch all wires should be attached to the top 2 anchors on the switch with the live feed going to one and the other wires attached by one spade connector. including earth, or should earth go to one of the bottom ones? I shall be leaving out the light element of the wiring loom as not needed

(done a search) but will wait for blatters to show me the way sorry gez

cheers

Rob

[Blatman]

We'd need to know how many connectors the toggle switches have and what they do. I assume you have data sheets/specs for the switches. If so, let's see them and I'm sure we'll have a stab at it.

[RobC]

main headlights have 2 at the top (on) and 2 at the bottom (off) no data sheet to speak of?? got them from maplin if that helps any??

I have seen these used but...

be gentle blatters

[RobC]

Spec

[pistonbroke]

SPST ON-OFF Single-pole locking, 2-pin    

SPDT-A ON-ON Single-pole locking, 3-pin    

SPDT-B ON-OFF-ON Single-pole locking, 3-pin,  centre off  

DPST ON-OFF Double-pole locking, 2-pin    

DPDT-E ON-ON Double-pole locking, 3-pin    

DPDT-F ON-OFF-ON Double-pole locking, 3-pin,   centre off  

so which ones

[Blatman]

Wire them the same way you wire the equivalent Lucas toggle that I assume came with the kit. They should be constructed internally to the same specs as the Lucas switches.

Can't help on the specific headlight wiring, 'cos I don't use a toggle switch for the lights.

[pistonbroke]

assuming there double pole single throw then they are a simple make/break switch .

use pos feed to one top connector

use pos return to one bottom connector

use both same side of switch  

If your replacing illuminated switches you will have a wire spare [ the old feed to the switch lamp]

if a new build are these new ones sva friendly ?

[RobC]

SPST ON-OFF Single-pole locking, 2-pin    

SPDT-A ON-ON Single-pole locking, 3-pin    

SPDT-B ON-OFF-ON Single-pole locking, 3-pin,  centre off  

DPST ON-OFF Double-pole locking, 2-pin    

DPDT-E ON-ON Double-pole locking, 3-pin    

DPDT-F ON-OFF-ON Double-pole locking, 3-pin,   centre off  

not sure?

Double pole?

They look like the top one on the pic on maplins site. At a guess that might make them single pole...

so that would be 2 pin for toggle discussed at the mo.

I am hoping that if to way I was intending to do this can then be applied to the other switches. hopefully

[RobC]

all switches fall within the 127mm SVA friendly area from the outside of the wheel... Dash is carbon so not as per westfield one

[VX2L16V]

get a multimeter or test lamp on the terminals

[RobC]

ok got the lights working...but... the front indicators are not working. What am I doing wrong?

do I need to have the rear indicators connected to close the circuit? or should the fronts just work what ever?

This is very trial and error approach at the moment

[Blatman]

You need to have them all connected IME, although you can ignore the side repeaters for the moment...

[RobC]

cheers blatters.

maybe you can help with the brake light then. what would be causing this not to eluminate the light on my digidash. Seems to be wired correctly... handbrake earth'd but no light when handbrake is on???

again I have not connected rear lights. could this be the problem?

[Blatman]

Sounds like an earth problem, but it could be a lighting circuit incomplete problem. I have no experience with a Digi-Dash though so for all I know it the dingleflapper not earthing to the reticulating splunge grommet...

[RobC]

nope you lost me

I'll have another look at it tomorrow night. Just glad I have the lights working